Power Tig 185 Micro on Inside Corner 304 Stainless

[performance]

That point is a little blunt, and the taper isn't nearly enough. It should be at least 2.5 times the diameter of the tungsten...that would make the arc work better for you. What type tungsten are you using?

[cbmkr]

That point is a little blunt, and the taper isn't nearly enough. It should be at least 2.5 times the diameter of the tungsten...that would make the arc work better for you. What type tungsten are you using?

Its 1.5% Gold , it was sharper and has lost a little, next time i will make it longer and see how it does.I this the mark i think it is. If so send me a PM

[MoparCar]

Certainly a good start. Looks like the 185 is working out so far. Thanks for posting the pictures!

[Paul Moir]

Go back to the #6 and give yourself some more stickout. Actually you can get your stickout so the electrode is naturally just above the top of the bead when the cup is resting against the sides, and use the sides as a guide. Inside corners go real slick when the stickout is just right.

Don't worry about gas coverage in an inside corner. You're always really well covered.

[cbmkr]

Thanks for the tip.
I will try that next time, I am not as steady as i used to be.

[jakeru]

Sometimes, yes adding filler rod from the trailing end can work well. Going into a corner is a perfect place to do it. Keep at it, and you'll get the hang of it.

Most strive to get the surface of their stainless steel TIG welds less oxidized, especially for an application that may come into contact with food (to keep the surface smooth, easy to clean, and sanitary.) Although for other application, it is arguable how important an oxidation free surface actually is.

You said "the gas was at 9" but you didn't clarify which units you're talking about. 9cfh would work OK for a #4 cup, but 9 liters per minute (= about 18 cfh) would almost certainly pull in atmospheric turbulence into the shielding gas. It's just way too much flow for such a small cup.

Also, I agree that a #4 cup is way too small for this application, unless you don't care about your stainless oxidizing. Anyhow, I rarely use my #4. There is such a dramatic difference in cross sectional area, even if you just step up to a #5. I would step up to a #6-#8, and use a gas lens if you've got it. If you can't see, reposition your setup (e.g., where you position your head) so you can see the puddle. Also, don't angle the torch sideways too far, or you'll draft atmosphere from the trailing side of your weld bead, and cause it to oxidize excessively. Keeping your torch angle closer to perpendicular will help bathe the trailing (cooling off) part of your weld bead with inert gas.

Also, keep the gas flowing after you terminate your arc (post-flow setting) for as long as the metal is glowing, and maybe even a bit more. Don't pull your torch away until the metal has sufficiently cooled below the oxidation temperature. The 185 micro doesn't have adjustable post-flow, but if needed, you can briefly trigger the arc to trigger a second post-flow cycle.

[undercut]

Sometimes, yes adding filler rod from the trailing end can work well. Going into a corner is a perfect place to do it. Keep at it, and you'll get the hang of it.

Most strive to get the surface of their stainless steel TIG welds less oxidized, especially for an application that may come into contact with food (to keep the surface smooth, easy to clean, and sanitary.) Although for other application, it is arguable how important an oxidation free surface actually is.

You said "the gas was at 9" but you didn't clarify which units you're talking about. 9cfh would work OK for a #4 cup, but 9 liters per minute (= about 18 cfh) would almost certainly pull in atmospheric turbulence into the shielding gas. It's just way too much flow for such a small cup.

Also, I agree that a #4 cup is way too small for this application, unless you don't care about your stainless oxidizing. Anyhow, I rarely use my #4. There is such a dramatic difference in cross sectional area, even if you just step up to a #5. I would step up to a #6-#8, and use a gas lens if you've got it. If you can't see, reposition your setup (e.g., where you position your head) so you can see the puddle. Also, don't angle the torch sideways too far, or you'll draft atmosphere from the trailing side of your weld bead, and cause it to oxidize excessively. Keeping your torch angle closer to perpendicular will help bathe the trailing (cooling off) part of your weld bead with inert gas.

Also, keep the gas flowing after you terminate your arc (post-flow setting) for as long as the metal is glowing, and maybe even a bit more. Don't pull your torch away until the metal has sufficiently cooled below the oxidation temperature. The 185 micro doesn't have adjustable post-flow, but if needed, you can briefly trigger the arc to trigger a second post-flow cycle.

All good points! Just like to add that the tapping of the pedal is also useful to increase the amount of preflow argon too.

[cbmkr]

Tried what you suggested, Used my New 9 Torch W/1/16" tungsten #6 nozzle gas on almost 5 lpm Amps at 80, It cleaned up pretty nice and flowed better. I had to much gas before.The tip of the tungsten point is 2.5 times the dia now .
Thanks Again

[undercut]

Tried what you suggested, Used my New 9 Torch W/1/16" tungsten #6 nozzle gas on almost 5 lpm Amps at 80, It cleaned up pretty nice and flowed better. I had to much gas before.The tip of the tungsten point is 2.5 times the dia now .
Thanks Again

Looking good! Looks like you took in all of the recommendations on this go round. Nice to see you are making really good use of your 185 welder. It's a very capable machine.