CK 130 Torch W/25' Superflex Lead on my PP256

[zoama]

I have never had a problem with the standard 3 series collets but want to try thr wedgw collets. What diffrences have you seen? Pros/Cons?
I have never used lanthanated just pure and ceriated so maybe I will give them a try.

They fit better allowing the gas lens to be fully seated into the head and the backcap will lock your tungsten just as the oring seats. They're made of brass and should last for years of hobby use. Well worth the extra pennies IMO.

[Rambozo]

They fit better allowing the gas lens to be fully seated into the head and the backcap will lock your tungsten just as the oring seats. They're made of brass and should last for years of hobby use. Well worth the extra pennies IMO.

I was going to ask the same question. I've been using the same set of Weldcraft collets and bodies for over a dozen years, so other than abuse, I didn't see lifespan as a huge issue. I don't understand about the gas lens fitting better, that should be screwed in fully with no collet in place to make the best connection with the torch body. Collet bodies and gas lens bodies should even be wrench tightened, for those with provisions. And the back cap o-ring seals between the ID and OD, the cap shouldn't seat at all, so it is applying full pressure to the collet, and not hitting anywhere else. I will probably try a CK torch next, so I will see what the differences are. I understand some of the current carrying advantages, and the more robust design that can tolerate more abuse. I've worked with plenty of people that have destroyed TIG torch parts, by running them loose, tightening them with a deathgrip, or putting way too much current through a small size. Apart from cups, tungsten, and a new o-ring every few years, I haven't really had the other parts be consumed.

[zoama]

I was going to ask the same question. I've been using the same set of Weldcraft collets and bodies for over a dozen years, so other than abuse, I didn't see lifespan as a huge issue. I don't understand about the gas lens fitting better, that should be screwed in fully with no collet in place to make the best connection with the torch body. Collet bodies and gas lens bodies should even be wrench tightened, for those with provisions. And the back cap o-ring seals between the ID and OD, the cap shouldn't seat at all, so it is applying full pressure to the collet, and not hitting anywhere else. I will probably try a CK torch next, so I will see what the differences are. I understand some of the current carrying advantages, and the more robust design that can tolerate more abuse. I've worked with plenty of people that have destroyed TIG torch parts, by running them loose, tightening them with a deathgrip, or putting way too much current through a small size. Apart from cups, tungsten, and a new o-ring every few years, I haven't really had the other parts be consumed.

The backcap o-ring touches the torch body, the backcap is not bottoming out. Maybe my discription isn't the best but I've seen someone here advise leaving the gas lens loose so that the backcap seals.
I'll try to get some pictures later today.

[Rambozo]

The backcap o-ring touches the torch body, the backcap is not bottoming out. Maybe my discription isn't the best but I've seen someone here advise leaving the gas lens loose so that the backcap seals.
I'll try to get some pictures later today.

No, you never leave the collet body loose, regular or gas lens. That is where the power transfers, it needs to be a good connection or there will be extra resistance which will make heat and possible arcing. One of the fastest ways to mess up the threads in a torch body is to leave them loose. The back cap o-ring seals between the groove on the cap and a smooth bore in the torch body. As long as it hasn't shrunk from age, it will seal as soon as it enters that bore. If it doesn't, it's time for a new o-ring. If it was designed to seal against a surface, it would have a different kind of groove.

[zoama]

No, you never leave the collet body loose, regular or gas lens. That is where the power transfers, it needs to be a good connection or there will be extra resistance which will make heat and possible arcing. One of the fastest ways to mess up the threads in a torch body is to leave them loose. The back cap o-ring seals between the groove on the cap and a smooth bore in the torch body. As long as it hasn't shrunk from age, it will seal as soon as it enters that bore. If it doesn't, it's time for a new o-ring. If it was designed to seal against a surface, it would have a different kind of groove.

We're in agreement, just describing the same thing in a different way... I'm a hobby welder with no formal training.

[NRM]

I received my FlexLoc 130A torch, SafeLoc dinse connector, wedge collets and heat shields from Weldfabulous yesterday. Their prices were less than Arc-Zone and they ship USPS. Also, I received my nozzles (4-8), gas lenses (1/16” & 3/32”), and back caps from Welding City this week. They have good prices and ship USPS flat rate boxes. I can’t wait to use my new set-up. Only problem is, I am waiting on my argon fittings which are back ordered 4-6 weeks. I could use the one from the supplied torch but I want to keep that one as is. Hopefully 4-6 weeks is just their standard disclaimer and they arrive a lot sooner.

Zoama you have any of those switches you are willing to part with?

I will post pics later.

[zoama]

I received my FlexLoc 130A torch, SafeLoc dinse connector, wedge collets and heat shields from Weldfabulous yesterday. Their prices were less than Arc-Zone and they ship USPS. Also, I received my nozzles (4-8), gas lenses (1/16” & 3/32”), and back caps from Welding City this week. They have good prices and ship USPS flat rate boxes. I can’t wait to use my new set-up. Only problem is, I am waiting on my argon fittings which are back ordered 4-6 weeks. I could use the one from the supplied torch but I want to keep that one as is. Hopefully 4-6 weeks is just their standard disclaimer and they arrive a lot sooner.

Zoama you have any of those switches you are willing to part with?

I will post pics later.

You can pull the male QC out of your oem torch and put it back later... it's very easy, or crank out a few on your lathe.
PM me the address you'd like the switch sent to.