Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
I was going to ask the same question. I've been using the same set of Weldcraft collets and bodies for over a dozen years, so other than abuse, I didn't see lifespan as a huge issue. I don't understand about the gas lens fitting better, that should be screwed in fully with no collet in place to make the best connection with the torch body. Collet bodies and gas lens bodies should even be wrench tightened, for those with provisions. And the back cap o-ring seals between the ID and OD, the cap shouldn't seat at all, so it is applying full pressure to the collet, and not hitting anywhere else. I will probably try a CK torch next, so I will see what the differences are. I understand some of the current carrying advantages, and the more robust design that can tolerate more abuse. I've worked with plenty of people that have destroyed TIG torch parts, by running them loose, tightening them with a deathgrip, or putting way too much current through a small size. Apart from cups, tungsten, and a new o-ring every few years, I haven't really had the other parts be consumed.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
No, you never leave the collet body loose, regular or gas lens. That is where the power transfers, it needs to be a good connection or there will be extra resistance which will make heat and possible arcing. One of the fastest ways to mess up the threads in a torch body is to leave them loose. The back cap o-ring seals between the groove on the cap and a smooth bore in the torch body. As long as it hasn't shrunk from age, it will seal as soon as it enters that bore. If it doesn't, it's time for a new o-ring. If it was designed to seal against a surface, it would have a different kind of groove.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
I received my FlexLoc 130A torch, SafeLoc dinse connector, wedge collets and heat shields from Weldfabulous yesterday. Their prices were less than Arc-Zone and they ship USPS. Also, I received my nozzles (4-8), gas lenses (1/16” & 3/32”), and back caps from Welding City this week. They have good prices and ship USPS flat rate boxes. I can’t wait to use my new set-up. Only problem is, I am waiting on my argon fittings which are back ordered 4-6 weeks. I could use the one from the supplied torch but I want to keep that one as is. Hopefully 4-6 weeks is just their standard disclaimer and they arrive a lot sooner.
Zoama you have any of those switches you are willing to part with?
I will post pics later.
PowerPro 205
9" South Bend Lathe
Enco Mill/Drill
Evolution Rage 2
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw