So, if it was YOU welding this, what would you do?

[sportbike]

For those that are suggesting a multi pass, multi filler smaw weld....why???

If you are going to stick weld it, why would you use a multipass weld, and why would you change fillers if you did? this isn't a spec weld that has a welding procedure that must be followed.

I'm not trying to be blunt, but is there a reason for a multi pass, multi filler weld? A simple farmer weld would be fine, 1/8" 6011, single pass. No worry with moisture, no issues with melted flux insulating the tip of the electrode, no issues with anything really. 7018 is a hassle to deal with and is of very limited benefit to 90% of the welds that are made and is still equal or over-matched to most of the base metals that will be used.

[CGCINC]

Ok.. First my lame joke...

6011 goes both ways

So 6011 is like a high school cheerleader after her first drink of Peach snopps?! Ba dump, bump!

Ok, now my real question:

SPORTBIKE - 7018 is a hassle to deal with and is of very limited benefit to 90% of the welds that are made and is still equal or over-matched to most of the base metals that will be used.

What do you mean by a hassle?
And what do you mean by limited benefit?

I'm learning stuff is why I'm asking.... I've welded with 6010,6011,6013 and 7018 and the 7018 was the easiest to use for me as far just arc characteristics and ease of laying a bead.
I spent a few days in class with 3/8" plate ground to an angle and doing root passes with the 6010, then fill with 7018. What a pain.

[geezer]

Ok.. First my lame joke...
So 6011 is like a high school cheerleader after her first drink of Peach snopps?! Ba dump, bump!

Ok, now my real question:


What do you mean by a hassle?
And what do you mean by limited benefit?

I'm learning stuff is why I'm asking.... I've welded with 6010,6011,6013 and 7018 and the 7018 was the easiest to use for me as far just arc characteristics and ease of laying a bead.
I spent a few days in class with 3/8" plate ground to an angle and doing root passes with the 6010, then fill with 7018. What a pain.

I have to agree with Sportbike, 7018 is a bit over rated and misunderstood, most of the users don't understand it's pupose and just repeat what others have said a bout it, 7018 is a hassle for storage because it must be properly stored to get the benefits out of it...the main reason for 7018 is for welding machinable steels or hardend steels ...there is an old saying.....steels that are hard to weld are easy to machine and visa versa...machinable steels have high sulphur contents or other additives that make them hard to weld...that's when 7018 shines.........7018 is a drag rod and it's pretty hard to screw up if you drag it,,,6010/6011 are harder to maintain an arc cause the have a longer arc gap.....if you want nice looking welds with a drag rod use 7014 it's easier to store than 7018 and it gives very nice weld appearance.

[jakeru]

You've already got it prepped for TIG, so why on earth would you want to blow stick welding slag all over it, and suck in nasty fumes?

I'd set a #7 or #8 gas lens, 3/32" tungsten, amps set to "kill" (250 amps) on the footpedal, and have at it with E70S2 or S6.

Weld in stitches to keep cool, and try to make it look like a perfectly welded, oxide-free stainless steel weld, for fun. Visually observe back side of weld to verify complete penetration.

[jerky]

For those that are suggesting a multi pass, multi filler smaw weld....why???

as performance said with 6010, it gets penetration, more then 7018.. then 7018 on top of that for strength and looks. since there is no welding procedure like you said, it really boils down to personal preference, what materials you have avaiable, and your skill level in each area of weld. if you can mig a better weld then tig, then do it.