English Wheel build

[worntorn]

Yes those socket heads do look tidy, don't they?

Today I used the little multifunction Everlast to plasma cut some 1/2" thick plates needed for mounting the adjuster and for mounting the tool arm, which will be removeable or "modular" as described in the Imperial sales brochure.

I cut these out of some old material I had on hand. After cutting them I realized they were not quite a match when laid together, so I spent a bit of time with a big cutter on the mill flushing them up.
This wasn't really necessary but the end product will look a little better for it.

The photo shows the adjuster welded to one of the plates. A matching plate will be welded to the end of the horizontal upper 3x5 frame member, then the plate on the adjuster will get bolted to that.

This weld is a fillet between the 1/2" plate and the 1/4" wall adjuster tube. My Miller TIG calculator said this weld should be done at 310 amps. The little Everlast only goes to 200. I was tempted to rig up my old P+H 400 amp, but that requires a bit of effort.

Feeling a bit lazy, I gave the Everlast a try. How did it do?
Don't need no stinkin Miller calculator or big honkin welder, just floor the little Green thing and away you go, start melting rod.

Truth be told this was about max for the unit, but pretty amazing, this is kind of thickness I used to weld when fabbing Caterpillar D6 Clearing blades. Except those were done with a 500 amp Miller 3phase DC stick welder!

Glen

[aaxiss]

Yes those socket heads do look tidy, don't they?

Today I used the little multifunction Everlast to plasma cut some 1/2" thick plates needed for mounting the adjuster and for mounting the tool arm, which will be removeable or "modular" as described in the Imperial sales brochure.

I cut these out of some old material I had on hand. After cutting them I realized they were not quite a match when laid together, so I spent a bit of time with a big cutter on the mill flushing them up.
This wasn't really necessary but the end product will look a little better for it.

The photo shows the adjuster welded to one of the plates. A matching plate will be welded to the end of the horizontal upper 3x5 frame member, then the plate on the adjuster will get bolted to that.

This weld is a fillet between the 1/2" plate and the 1/4" wall adjuster tube. My Miller TIG calculator said this weld should be done at 310 amps. The little Everlast only goes to 200. I was tempted to rig up my old P+H 400 amp, but that requires a bit of effort.

Feeling a bit lazy, I gave the Everlast a try. How did it do?
Don't need no stinkin Miller calculator or big honkin welder, just floor the little Green thing and away you go, start melting rod.

Truth be told this was about max for the unit, but pretty amazing, this is kind of thickness I used to weld when fabbing Caterpillar D6 Clearing blades. Except those were done with a 500 amp Miller 3phase DC stick welder!

Glen

And don't forget that 500 amp miller weighed almost as much as the cat you were welding on. Danm, I need my coffee, Glen after your work on the Vincent nothing more to say on this thread except keep the finished product away from me. I need my hands more than ever now LOL

[worntorn]

managed to sneak out after dinner yesterday and do a bit. This will be the removeable tool arm. It will get one of those 6"x6" x1/2" thick plates welded to the big end and a small 1/2" plate with keyways cut in a cross welded into small end at the appropriate angle.

I used the Wellsaw to slice the centre out of a chunk of the 3x5x1/4" tube.
The long seam will get v'd out before welding.

Glen

[aaxiss]

Wow Glen you never stop do ya, you slacking on the Vincent to get this done for the tin work on it? If so then I forgive ya LOL. I am just anxious to see that bike done

But anyway Superb work as usual on the EW. Looks great!!!

[Jason]

I love seeing your threads because your work is amzing and your building things that I actually would like to build in the near future also. My current project is a CNC mill that I hope to add the option of plasma to in case I want to use if for that some time and then an E-Wheel is something down the road but not too far away that I would like to get/make.

[geezer]

Looks good, like a store bought item, In the short time this thread has been going your progress on the build has been amazing, looking forward to your next project.

[Jason]

That looks really nice. Good Job!

[everlastsupport]

Looks very nice and clean. Making it movable a major plus. I hope to start a press brake project soon.

[worntorn]

Hi Don

I've made the fenders for the two Ossas (see Ossa Movie in Personal projects) and will start back on the Egli tomorrow.

I'll get back to you on the mosaic. I'm leaning toward the Egli-Vincent Scroll.

Glen

[shawn]

looking good

[worntorn]

wruehl, I don't have a set of detailed plans. The basic frame dimensions came from one of the metalshaping sites I have been logging onto for the past month or so. Some of the general info for the adjuster dimension, ie , use a piece of inch and a half 1/4" wall square tube for the quill, use a 3" square tube for the outer, came from the same site.
If anyone wants to build one like this, my advice is get started, just PM me with any questions, or ask them here, I'll be glad to help. Since I just finished the build, I still have the dimensions in my head, maybe for another week or two at least!

Mike, the wheeling is not at all difficult to do. The biggest thing is probably what Don mentioned, keeping your fingers out of the way.

I'm thinking about building a powered bead roller soon. I made a little hand tool for folding or hemming the edges. It works OK, but what a tedious procedure that is!

Glen

[aaxiss]

Yea Ill tell ya just when you think you got it down and speed up a little that thing will bite ya, mashed my finger good . lost the nail a day later and was swelled up for 2 weeks and that was a minor pinch. Anyone using one of these just take your time at first and get used to how much pressure you need and just slow and steady and always reposition your hands to try ( you cant always) get them from in front of the wheel when doing small or intricate angles.

Glen: I need a logo of what you want for your mosaic I found some on the net ( The in small letters over the Egli Vincent on the yellow banner ) but I need you to post what background color you would like Keep in mind to keep it original My pops has to use black grout and what about size? keep in mind bigger equals heavy and shipping goes up. 2' x 16" ish sound ok? send me some pictures if possible, Pops usually just blows the images up on the pc and uses them for templates for the ones with lettering. send me something to get an idea . Btw Love the wheel can you make me one about 20" lower and send it overnight LOL Im about to move the buzzbox back into the shop from the shed and start welding up my bender so I can continue my build thread.

here are the logos Ive been able to find, the last one may not be doable I'll have to ask

Attachment 1556Attachment 1557Attachment 1558

I know the the shipment is gonna be in a few days and they will go out shortly but I have an apartment full of parts I need to start moving to my parents house to start my mock-up and build my frame jig in case I need to build another buggy after I wax some 18 yr old on his R1 and someone want to buy one hahaha. decided on a 4 wheeler so I can go do the local 1/8 mile drags shouldn't run out of gear in 1/8 mile I hope .. we shall see.

Any updated on the Egli build?

[wruehl]

wruehl, I don't have a set of detailed plans. The basic frame dimensions came from one of the metalshaping sites I have been logging onto for the past month or so. Some of the general info for the adjuster dimension, ie , use a piece of inch and a half 1/4" wall square tube for the quill, use a 3" square tube for the outer, came from the same site.
If anyone wants to build one like this, my advice is get started, just PM me with any questions, or ask them here, I'll be glad to help. Since I just finished the build, I still have the dimensions in my head, maybe for another week or two at least!

Mike, the wheeling is not at all difficult to do. The biggest thing is probably what Don mentioned, keeping your fingers out of the way.

I'm thinking about building a powered bead roller soon. I made a little hand tool for folding or hemming the edges. It works OK, but what a tedious procedure that is!

Glen

If you would like to move forward with a nice 3D model and drawing package all I would need is a rough sketch with as many dimensions as you can muster. I might pester you later for detail or missing dims as the model progresses, but it should be relatively painless. I'm not sure I would build one, but I want to keep my SolidWorks skills sharp, and this looks like it would be fun. No pressure, its your design/adaptation and will always remain that way. If you want to document it for the masses, I'm willing to donate the time.

[worntorn]

I put the castors on it, made a tray for the anvils, lined it with felt and finished making the Quick release handle. The bolt that the finger pull rotates on has a pen spring pushing on the little ball bearing ball in the end that is toward the yoke. I drilled out the end of the bolt just big enough for the ball, then put hte spring and ball down in there. While holding the ball down with a tiny screwdriver, I peened the bolt so that the ball would stay in it's socket. About 1/3 of the ball protrudes from the end of the bolt. This indexes into a small hole drilled part way into the yoke.

The castor setup does it's job OK. About four inches of lift on the front pivoting castor gets the rear pads clear of the floor, then it's easy to move around. I used part of an old acme thread house raising jack for the lift part of the front castor assembly.

The paint color is Hammerite Deep Green.

Time to have a go at making fenders!

[wruehl]

I'm guessing that you have drawn this up (it sure looks like a well thought out design). Any chance you will publish it? Either online for a fee of free? I can help model it in Solid Works if your interested, if the plans where offered up to the public I would donate my time.