Did i-Tig 201 have points changed recently?

[performance]

Considering the image size is 550x181 I'm not sure that is the case. I have tried to scale an image down thinking the same thing, but no go. I am fairly literate when it comes to online sites, but the Everlast site here seems to present problems to me.



Then I'm questioning your memory, or that you don't have an i-Tig 201 in front of you.

Do they have an i-Tig 201 in support so I can talk intelligently with them about how to set the points?



I guess you're not reading what I'm typing. I'm telling you the points are different, period. I hope you understand that last statement.



Good question, I can't get any standard thickness gauge inside to measure, it is impossible to get a standard one down there. The only way I can see to measure and set the points is to disassemble the machine and take the motherboard out. My machine is different than Mark has worked with, and it is not the same as depicted in the manual.

Maybe the phone will be easier if Everlast has a physical machine in front of them, rather than telling me what my machine does or looks like.

Alan

Alan,
Not sure what else I can say here. I don't think you are reading what I am writing either! lol. I allowed that the points changed from the 200 itig to the 201 itig when I also told you that the manual was revised using the 200 manual, and that the point change was not highlighted to us when the manual was written so the 200 information was kept instead of the 201. That does not mean the 201 points have changed at all since the introduction of the 201 but it was incorrect information in the manual due to the advanced writing of the manual before the product was in hand. Still, though all points in our units are adjustable. If you have a screw, then you have adjustable points. Points by their nature have to be adjustable in some form or fashion if you have them.

I asked you for what reason you were wanting to adjust them, and you did not answer.

It's immaterial whether tech support has one in front of them. We have over 40 units in our lineup. They can't keep that many units open or directly in front of them. They do train in the factory and work on units and hold schematics. They will know what to do if I don't.

Also, not sure whether you are using the "go advanced" feature, but that works for me, if I resize without issues.
And no one's site is fool proof. Welding web has been down for days. And that is their livelihood completely.

[aland]

Alan,
Not sure what else I can say here. I don't think you are reading what I am writing either! lol. I allowed that the points changed from the 200 itig to the 201 itig when I also told you that the manual was revised using the 200 manual, and that the point change was not highlighted to us when the manual was written so the 200 information was kept instead of the 201.

Mark,

Certainly not wanting to debate with you, but you didn't explain it exactly like that. I took your comments that the old manual had this information.

The new manual, for whatever reason, is not correct. The old manual doesn't have anything in it about points. I am not sure how to take that, but from what you are saying the information in the 201 manual is incorrect. Maybe that was the missing info from the 200 manual, that I don't know.

That does not mean the 201 points have changed at all since the introduction of the 201 but it was incorrect information in the manual due to the advanced writing of the manual before the product was in hand. Still, though all points in our units are adjustable. If you have a screw, then you have adjustable points. Points by their nature have to be adjustable in some form or fashion if you have them.

Ok, I have a tiny, and I mean TINY copper screw. AFAICT, there is no way to get anything in from the outside of the case to access it. That leaves me to believe that I would need to disassemble the machine to get to the points, and it's not clear if that will adjust them, it is a very tiny screw. There is no locking nut, and the screw is nowhere near the size it shows in the manual.

Given these points are different, how do you suggest getting access to the tiny copper screw to adjust it, even though there is no locking nut?

I asked you for what reason you were wanting to adjust them, and you did not answer.

The points are serviceable and I would like to understand how to adjust them so that I can service my unit in the future. I would like to measure them first, since I keep seeing reports of similar units requiring the points to be set from the factory. Mostly on either the 200 or other models, not the 201.

It's immaterial whether tech support has one in front of them. We have over 40 units in our lineup. They can't keep that many units open or directly in front of them. They do train in the factory and work on units and hold schematics. They will know what to do if I don't.

If what you told me made sense in looking at the points, I think what you say in understandable. Given what you have typed in this thread, it was not even clear what points I should have, what should be in the manual, or even the procedure to do so...obviously what I have in my manual is incorrect.

Also, not sure whether you are using the "go advanced" feature, but that works for me, if I resize without issues.
And no one's site is fool proof. Welding web has been down for days. And that is their livelihood completely.

Your website will not accept an image from me. I have tried taking a screenshot of the manual page on my monitor, no worky...scaled down to 1024x768, no worky. Scaled down to 640x480, no worky. Finaly I tried to take a screen capture of just the point gaps in the manual, the size is 550x181. If too large of an image is the problem, can you tell me what size I need to scale down to upload a pic/image?

I'm not trying to be difficult, I think I know how to use online forums like this one, and what you have been telling me doesn't make sense until you admit finally that the manual is wrong, and I have to believe this is so for the older Power i-Tig 200 and the Power i-Tig 201.

I honestly don't know how you could explain it to me if you don't have one in front of you. So far you haven't been able to.

If I call the toll free support number, will they have a Power i-Tig 201 which they can physically look at so what they explain will make sense to me? There is no way to access it from the outside as far as I can tell, and why I said it looks like I would need to remove the entire motherboard or pieces of the case to get access.

If you could explain to me how to access it, I would appreciate it. I want to be able to understand, access and be able to set that points as would be needed to service the unit. Just saying the manual is wrong and they can be set doesn't help very much.

Alan

[Rambozo]

Ok, I have a tiny, and I mean TINY copper screw. AFAICT, there is no way to get anything in from the outside of the case to access it. That leaves me to believe that I would need to disassemble the machine to get to the points, and it's not clear if that will adjust them, it is a very tiny screw. There is no locking nut, and the screw is nowhere near the size it shows in the manual.

I think one issue is the way this is being presented. Many machines only have the point adjustment information in the service manual, not the user manual. This is not common user task. It is simply a fixed spark gap, there are no moving parts to wear, just spark erosion that takes ages to change the gap. They typically do not need adjustment for hundreds if not thousands of hours. The one exception is if the machine is dropped or has had rough handling. This is why some new machines have needed to be touched up after their extensive shipping. Yes the machine will have to come apart to make this adjustment. That is typical for most welders. The actual adjustment system is different from model to model, but is pretty basic, and self explanatory once you see it. Some units you simply bend the tabs holding the contact points (250 EX), some are screw type. These points are only used for starting so they do not have the large point system that older machines had because those were often set to run continuously.
A piece of .030" or .035" MIG wire makes a great gauge to get into tight places to check the gap.

[aland]

I tried to call support, but nobody is there. I left a message for them to call back, as it says they are there until 5:00pm Eastern Time, which is 3.5 hours from now.

EDIT: I will get the cover off to have it ready for when they do call.

Alan

[performance]

Eastern is 3 hours earlier, not later. I live and work off eastern too. 5 pm has come and gone 3.5hours ago.

[aland]

Yeah, that's what I thought...the support number says they are gone for the day, so I guess they really don't work until 5:00pm Eastern Time.

I called the main number extension 207.

I took a bunch of pics and as I opened my unit a piece of spooge dropped out, it was hanging on a spooge strand...so I looked around and see I got what I paid for, an inexpensive inverter made in China. Most spots they spooged some silicon or sealer, or other stuff, are just spooged and let drip onto other components. That seems to be common throughout the machine. Not what I would call great craftsmanship, but not horrible for a cheap inverter.

This is the pic of my points. I would sure like to know how you adjust it cause in looking close I'm not sure there is actually a copper screw there...there is no easy access to that from anywhere outside the case, I think it would be impossible. I might be able to grind down a feeler gauge to be narrow enough to fit in and measure the gap. Is that needed to measure? Otherwise there is no way to fit a standard feeler gauge in that small area.

Here's a pic I could get, not great. I'm hosting this on my own server since I'm not smart enough to upload to this forum.



Any help would be appreciated Mark, since Support is not in the office today.

Alan

[Rambozo]

That looks just like some of the other models where you just bend the tab to adjust, if needed.

[performance]

Alan,
Just bend the points. But again, what is your issue that you think you need to adjust them?

I don't think you are thinking straight. 5pm eastern is 2 pm Pacific. They start work at 6 am pacific...which is 9 am eastern.

[aland]

Alan,
Just bend the points. But again, what is your issue that you think you need to adjust them?

I don't think you are thinking straight. 5pm eastern is 2 pm Pacific. They start work at 6 am pacific...which is 9 am eastern.

My bad on the 3 hour time, yep, I have time dyslexia today...LOL

That was my original question and what the entire thread implies with the subject. Sure, I can bend them, and I suspected that as the tabs are not even parallel to begin with.

As to why I *think* I might need to adjust them.

I keep reading on this AND other forums where people can't get their welders working correctly, but after sitting on the phone with Support for a couple hours to learn how to adjust them, it fixed their problem. I've seen this happen on Welding Tricks & Tips with an i-Tig 200, the predecessor to my i-Tig 201. But it is not isolated to the i-Tig 200, this is a common issue on many of the Everlast units as seen on this and other online forums.

So that's why I would like to understand how the gap gets set, because I suspect one day my welder will be like many of the other Everlast welders that you sell, it will need to have them adjusted. Is this far fetched ? Even this forum shows a number of people that you help fix the point gap to get their machine working properly. You act as if I am doing something I am not supposed to do...and maybe it doesn't need adjusting, but I wanted to measure it to see. Sorry if that bothers you, but why put that info in the manual if it's not important? Of course putting the right info in the manual would be helpful also...

Alan

[performance]

Point gap adjustment is a common item on all point type welders, not unique to Everlast and is considered a maintenance item, just like blowing out the welder after removing the cover about ever 4 months or so, but not needed as often though, only when arc starting is difficult. Arc starting is not a big deal usually and that particular unit sells alot to gun smiths who use the low amp start capability of the unit to weld on guns. It is popular in those circles. If it had issues, you'd know it. It hasn't been a problem in years really. Sure you will find issues, but a relatively small number compared to the number we sell. A couple of hours? No, about 5 minutes. If you don't have problems, don't fix something that isn't broke. Those points are straight forward. Slight misalignment is not a big issue, as long as some of the two faces are lined up with each other for the spark to jump. As was mentioned, some companies do, and some don't and we don't put it in all our manuals.

[performance]

Geez Alan, you'll find that in any welder, in about any brand if you look in the right spots. That's just over solder they intentionally use to handle a little bit extra power on a board. Leave the glue stuff alone. If you start removing the glue they use, which is harmless and non conductive, you could pull up your traces or wires, and that kind of monkeying around is not covered under warranty.

[performance]

Use MIG wire for a feeler gauge as Rambozo said.
.30 to .035 is typical setting.

[aland]

Use MIG wire for a feeler gauge as Rambozo said.
.30 to .035 is typical setting.

That's not a bad suggestion, I missed that in my first read...unfortunately, I don't have any. Maybe my LWS could give me a few pieces. I have spring steel I can just cut a narrow piece of, that will work, I just don't have a lot of sizes...I know I have .025" and .035", the later would work. I would prefer to have a solid piece rather than multiple feelers and .035" is probably not a bad place to start. I'm curious where mine is set currently also, surprising? It shouldn't be, it's the same reason I had to open my Nova pedal and check the potentiometer, it just had to be done.

Yes, I now understand how to open the pedal, that it does have the tocos (Tokyo Cosmos Electric) potentiometer in it. No pedal was killed during the inspection.

And no welder was killed by removing extra spooge hanging between and all over components that was shipped to me.

Let me ask you about these solders. These two are the only what appear to be bad solders on my unit that I have seen so far. They don't look very good to me.

Would you recommend leaving them as-is? They don't look very good, but probably fused to the metal. I'm no solder expert.



Alan

[rick9345]

Seems most everyone has fallen to the keyboard baiter Mark you need't fall for this crap
.2013 250EX, happy customer,service/advice dept excellent.