Share
Results 1 to 17 of 17

Thread: Replacement argon hose with proper fitting???

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Disneyland
    Posts
    2,662

    Default

    If it's an off the shelf fitting, I usually just buy it from the places mentioned. If it is an oddball, or I want it right now, I just make it. The John Guest or push to connect type fittings with Nylon or poly tubing are a pretty easy solution. 1/8" will do the job for short runs.

    The gas savings are by losing that huge initial blast when the solenoid opens. You wouldn't think that amounts to much, but you'd be surprised. Especially with fabrication work where you are doing a lot of tacking.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    The gas savings are by losing that huge initial blast when the solenoid opens. You wouldn't think that amounts to much, but you'd be surprised. Especially with fabrication work where you are doing a lot of tacking.
    Bingo, now you're making sense. Thank you for explaining that. That could be something that I wouldn't have known for a long long time...I will get that changed over, it does make sense.

    When I first hooked up my welder, I seemingly had forgot to connects the control. I set the argon pressure, everything seemed correct, but no argon turning on, so no solenoid kicking on...as I checked all the cables and hoses I saw the control wasn't hooked up... I don't have a pedal yet, it just shipped this morning, so without the switch there was nothing to control the solenoid. Once that was in, the welder worked like a champ.

    You don't have a pic of your setup, do you? Seems it will be a hard line, so wondering how it compensates for any movement, I know the thin lines are kind of flexible. When I built my propane forge, which has been quite a while, I used a flaring tool to crimp the ends of the fittings/tube. Is that the type of lines we're talking about? I didn't see any actual lines at the link above for migs, I don't think...

    Alan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Disneyland
    Posts
    2,662

    Default

    I use nylon or poly 1/8" tube.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#9685T1
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    I use nylon or poly 1/8" tube.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#9685T1
    What type of connector do you use?

    Looking on the McMaster site I don't see what would work. I think I need a 1/8" pipe and a 5/8 NPT (male). At least the plug seems to be that on the machine side. I need to measure the other end. But I couldn't find anything that was 1/8" -> 5/8" male NPT, is that such a connector that exists?

    Thanks, I'm a bit slow...

    Alan

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aland View Post
    But I couldn't find anything that was 1/8" -> 5/8" male NPT
    Nope, that's a 1/4 npt, I *think*.

    Maybe I need this:

    https://www.mcmaster.com/#50775k327/=1aync34

    And/or coupled with this:

    https://www.mcmaster.com/#50775k327/=1aync34

    using the 1/8" nylon tube you linked to. I'll put it here for clarity in case someone else is looking for the same solution.

    https://www.mcmaster.com/#9685T1

    This is without the other end. Let me go check...

    Alan
    Last edited by aland; 01-03-2018 at 07:37 AM.

  6. #6

    Default

    Sorry, the forum will only let you edit for 30 minutes, I wanted to put it together and change the bad link on the second one in the previous message.

    Suffice to say, I think what is needed is:

    2 x 1/8" to 1/4 NPT https://www.mcmaster.com/#50775k327/=1aync34 (each end of 1/8" nylon line)

    1 x Converter https://www.mcmaster.com/#7919a53/=1ayo3yj (machine side)

    X number of feet of this line https://www.mcmaster.com/#9685T1 (on a cart you may only need a couple feet depending on tank/cart/welder)

    Thanks for that famous bozo spin Rambozo, just like butchy boy used to get in the big top!

    Alan
    Last edited by aland; 01-03-2018 at 08:39 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Disneyland
    Posts
    2,662

    Default

    Compression fittings are kinda finicky with plastic tubing. You usually have to use a brass insert and that restricts the flow. They are very prone to leaks if tightened too little or too much. I prefer the push to connect type that seal with an O-ring. They are dead easy, can be disconnected and reconnected over and over and flat don't leak. Here is an example for 1/8" tube to 1/8" NPT. I prefer the brass ones. There are also plastic, and now there are half and half versions where the tube portion is plastic while the pipe thread is brass.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#51025k171

    Here is an all brass.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180103_010446_1 (Custom).jpg 
Views:	646 
Size:	70.8 KB 
ID:	13668

    And here is a half and half version.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180103_010509 (Custom).jpg 
Views:	617 
Size:	65.0 KB 
ID:	13669

    (Still no working inline photos on the forum software? Come on people)

    Some of the fittings you linked were for 1/4 OD tube.

    Pipe is measured by nominal inside diameter, while tubing is measured by actual outside diameter.
    The real trick is to accurately measure and identify what threads you have. There are so many variations that I would never try to guess exactly what you have without seeing it in front of me. Good calipers and a pitch gauge will usually do the job. Most US threads are 60 degree while British (China) are 55 degrees. Measure that and you narrow things down a lot. Typically you will probably convert from what you have to male or female NPT either 1/8 or 1/4, then to the tube fittings. NPT seals on the threads while CGA and a lot of other types seal with a spherical or tapered seat and not on the threads. So while some fittings might screw together just fine, they will not seal 100%. Since you are just starting out, there is no problem just using what was supplied until you are sure of what fittings you need to make it all work. I have one flowmeter that I was never able to ID what crazy fitting was on it and I ultimately took that barb fitting and brazed it to a brass bar so I could machine it to use standard fittings.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

Similar Threads

  1. Name that argon fitting! Or, where do I buy the QDs Everlast uses?
    By RichardH in forum TIG Welding (GTAW/GTAW-P)
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 06-07-2014, 08:31 PM
  2. Hose barb to quick disconnect fitting
    By AWDnot2 in forum TIG Welding (GTAW/GTAW-P)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 12-21-2012, 08:40 AM
  3. Radnor Welding Hose 1/4" x 50' Twin Torch Hose
    By cbmkr in forum Buy, Sale or Trade
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-17-2012, 04:40 PM
  4. ARGON and ARGON/CO2 TANK SIZES
    By everlastsupport in forum Technical Bulletins and Tips
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 10-13-2011, 06:19 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •