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  1. #1

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    Tom pretty much outlined how to test everything but the TIG gas solenoid/HF and you can fire the TIG torch without trying to weld and hear the HF buzz and the gas solenoid click. That would finish it all out as best as you can with no argon.

    Fire up the plasma per Tom's post.

    Then get some 6013 or 7018 electrodes $5-$10 (you can even get some at Harbor Freight on a weekend). Run a bead in DC and AC (make you you put the clamp on for all modes and in the + terminal).

    At this point you know the inverter is fine in plasma and weld mode (TIG and stick).

    Now fire the TIG torch (in the air do not try to weld) while in TOG mode and listen for the solenoid to click and a BUZZ sound from inside the machine (front left side).

    That's about it. Buy some argon and use the TIG, no mix gas, you can add helium later when needed, but it is not needed for you to start and learn.

    Make sure you have the proper safety gear and fire equipment before you start, also I would recommend one buddy to watch with a fire extinguisher near by. No gas cans near by or beer until you're done.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by everlastsupport View Post
    Now fire the TIG torch (in the air do not try to weld) while in TOG mode and listen for the solenoid to click and a BUZZ sound from inside the machine (front left side).
    Thanks, Mike. Yes, I am good with proper PPE and a fire extinguisher. I am going to test the way that you and Tom have outlined for me. Regarding the buzz, I assume that this comes from the HF points? Should I gap these when I receive the machine, or just wait and see if I have any issues with arc start? I've found that procedure in the forums, so I am familiar with danger posed by the caps.

    I will definitely be getting an Ar cylinder; I just don't want to waste a bunch of money on the tiny cylinder that I can afford today. Everything I read says not to waste your time with anything less than 150cf, so I will probably start there. I'm shopping that around now, checking out craig's list, etc.

    Thanks
    Mike

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by posixPilot View Post
    Thanks, Mike. Yes, I am good with proper PPE and a fire extinguisher. I am going to test the way that you and Tom have outlined for me. Regarding the buzz, I assume that this comes from the HF points? Should I gap these when I receive the machine, or just wait and see if I have any issues with arc start? I've found that procedure in the forums, so I am familiar with danger posed by the caps.

    I will definitely be getting an Ar cylinder; I just don't want to waste a bunch of money on the tiny cylinder that I can afford today. Everything I read says not to waste your time with anything less than 150cf, so I will probably start there. I'm shopping that around now, checking out craig's list, etc.

    Thanks
    Mike
    You can see the point thought the front of the machine (fat left about middle). I would eyeball them first with a flashlight. Mark or Tom mentioned the .040. If they look straight vetically, and about a spark plugs gap, you are good to go. Sometime a set will get bumped when the front panel goes on. It looks like you see it a lot of this, but remember we move a lot of units and only the bumped sets show up in the forum. You never see the 100s that are fine. But they are easy to check.

    The buzz is the HF point, look in the front far left middle, tap the torch and will see them pretty fast, just give them a couple minutes off before adjusting.

    On the tank size, for me, 150 minimum, trust me if you do any serious TIG welding it is still to small. Unless you for some reason very light weight tanks are needed (in a wheelchair or portability issues).

    I have bought probably 4 - 252 tanks off craigslist, a couple with welder and flipped the welders to get the tanks free or on the cheap.

    Like Steve S mentioned though, for a few bucks a month, you can rent a set and be done with it. Only issue I would see for most starting out, you normally need a business account with the LWS (so a little paperwork). I just like to own the tanks, not sure why. I do still have one rental 250 I started with and still use it, same drill to fill it.

    Also, some LWS will take low pressure tanks (if you stumble across one) in trade for high presure. But check first and normally they will drop up a size or two. You are looking for HP tanks though. Oxt/Acet/Argone/C25 or mix. Then just swap it for Argone. A 150 should runs around $40-$50 on the fill.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

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