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I'm totally ignorant when it comes to stick. The very first weld I laid down around 15 years ago used about half of one electrode and I haven't struck one since. So this might be obvious with those who know, but why is E6010 electrodes not recommended with the 225LX? I don't think I see any other Everlast welders that exclude that specific rod.
Obviously I can get through life, no problem, without every burning an E6010. But I am curious!
I'm guessing its related to the fact that E6010s run a couple volts higher when its being burned. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
I'm curious as well ... in my early days of welding before I got mig machines and tig unit I used a lot of 6010 and found it worked pretty well on steel that was ... well ... not so clean ... you know a little surface rust etc. I was using my old Miller Thunderbolt and cranked it up a bit ... interesting that it's discouraged for use with the 225LX.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Moir
6010 does not run well with inverter welders. It has to have some type of adjustable or adaptive arc force so it can weld 6010. I've tried running 6010 with inverters that do not have adaptive arc force, and it will drive you mad! The arc will not stay lit!
I could just run 5p 6010s on my hobart stickmate. you had to hold a tight arc cause it would go out as soon as you long arced it. my thermal arc inverter will run 6010s all day though. I can long arc it all i want and it will stay lit.
I believe that the welders that aren't designed for 6010s can't put out the set amperage with enough voltage to keep the rod going.
I shot a video showing the amp draw of my thermal arc inverter with different rods. the first 2 rods were 3/32 7018 and a 1/8 6010 5p rod. both were set at 90 amps, but the 6010 drew more input power because it runs at a higher voltage. Ill have to shot a video showing output voltage and output current sometime.
bty, for the safety people, I dont use 1/8 inch or bigger rods with that welder and the 20 amp plug. I use the 50 amp plug for everything except light duty stuff.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MASbAGPPiSA
It has to do with the voltage. 6010s need a few more volts to stay running smooth and with ease. I have a power are 200 that has its own port for 6010 and they still dont run the best. Now ive ran them with a transformer and they run much better it seems. If you try to run them with your machine turn the arc force all the way up because as i understand that has the most voltage output.
I use metal coat hangers for welding rod lol
What do you use for hanging your coat??? Welding rod??? HahahahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Rodsmachineshop
That makes sense my old dinosaur Thunderbolt is a transformer unit … come to think of it one of the reasons I don’t use that machine much anymore is because it draws a whole lot of power and I can sure see it when the bill comes.Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwills
Bob, It seems that your and my experience may differ here. The PA 200's run them excellently. Inverters, even Millers require different techniques to run them though, and many transformer guys have trouble doing so. Ask a guy to weld with a 6010 on a transformer who has only run inverters and you'll find similar remarks. I've also had multiple pros in the industry remark on the arc quality with the 6010 and the PA200.
They do run a little different between the too. I dont use them all that much. At first I seem to have a bit trouble with them going out but after I run one or two I seem to get the hang of it and they run good. Sometimes I have great luck with them sometimes not so much. I just havnt got used to them yet. Do you all use the 6010 5p (red) or 5p+
Any given welder, (Yes, even transformers) you will find that some welders perform differently with different brands. One of our customers recommends the ESAB atom arcs for the PA 200s. I use both the 5P and even the 5P+ from Lincoln.
Has there been any issues using 6013 electrodes with inverter welders?
6013 runs good, I have ran it on the Power Arc 200, PT 200dx, Power Arc 140st. I have not ran it on my 225lx.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky
Thanks ... good to know ... of all the SMAW electrodes ... that's the one I've used the most. I have a good supply of them but they're a little old ... I may need to replace what I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMurphy265
I only run two rods for the most part 7018 (heavy stuff) and 7014 (thin stuff). I have sealed cans of 6013 and 6011 that I have had for a year.
Agreed with 7018 most of the time. Also 6010s. Mojority of the rods I use is 7018 becuase they work for thick not to bad for thinner.
How long can keep rods? Assuming that they are kept in an airtight container, air isn't very humid to begin with and at a temperature that fairly constant and mild? I really can't gauge right now how much welding I'll be doing and rods are always cheaper to buy in heavier packages.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanMurphy265
I would guess years, if they are stored properly. A number of of the low hydrogen rods can be reconditioned by baking the moisture out in a oven. DaveO posted a great chart that he found a number of months ago on reconditioning. Also, some rods (like the 6011, I think) can get too dry in storage and will run terribly until they get some moisture.Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
Cheers
Mike
I'll need to search around for that chart. Thanks for the heads-up! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by posixPilot
Here's the thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by undercut
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/fo...ead.php?t=2868
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Mike. That might have taken me a while to find on my own. Wow, didn't realize that 7014's needed reconditioning .... and big wow, 7018s need a lot of heat to keep them hydrogen free .... Need to find someone who doesn't need their toaster oven any more! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by posixPilot