250EX No Arc....

So My 250ex did something funny today. I went to weld, and no arc.

I get a nice little electrical dance (Like when the ground isn't connected) on my work piece but no arc.

I have tried everything multiple times. Shutting it off, unplugging it, changing my parameters, changing ground locations, changed tungsten types and sizes, switched between ac and dc, switched from hi-freq to lift arc, changed from foot pedal to torch trigger, and NOTHING! I get nothing but a nice little electrical dance.

This machine performed flawlessly a few days ago.

I need answers. And I need them ASAP. I'm a student and I have work that needs to be done....
I was expecting a little more than 1 years use out of my machine....

Not to happy...

Adam

For the record.

This is what it is doing.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...t/01ca31e6.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...t/0a69e404.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...t/22e67d84.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...t/07fe1ff4.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...t/9278ecea.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i2...t/24df6159.jpg

Please note the distance from the work piece is only to show what it's doing.
Also, not that it matters, 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 2% Lanthanated (in the pics, and all I ever use), Ceriated, and Thoriated tungstens were tried.

.......... And those horrid welds in the background are NOT mine.

Also note.
I have NEVER opened up the machine for any reason. And I will NOT do so to check for anything. I'm not voiding my warranty.

It would be good to know if the machine functions properly in either "stick welding" or "scratch start" mode.

If it does work in either of those modes, and if were me, I'd take the cover off, and visually inspect, measure the distance of, and recondition (like by using some sandpaper or a small file to sand off any oxidation on the surface of) the high frequency gap.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jakeru

It would be good to know if the machine functions properly in either "stick welding" or "scratch start" mode.

If it does work in either of those modes, and if were me, I'd take the cover off, and visually inspect, measure the distance of, and recondition (like by using some sandpaper or a small file to sand off any oxidation on the surface of) the high frequency gap.

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Already stated it doesn't work while in either Hi-freq or lift/scratch arc/start..

Just tried stick welding about 5 minutes ago, and nothing.

Also, if opening up my machine has any chance of voiding my warranty I'm not touching it. Unless someone from Everlast Canada instructs to do so.
When you're a full time student keeping a valid warranty on something that cost $2k is vital.

If your ground connection is good, and it can't even make an arc in stick welding mode, then it could be an internal problem like a damaged diode or IGBT. Is there a "fault" LED or light on the machine's panel that is lit up?

[Edit: triangle with explanation mark light in it, in upper left corner of front face below the "ON" LED:]
Attachment 5911

I would contact Everlast support for assistance (probably via phone, since you are in a hurry.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jakeru

If your ground connection is good, and it can't even make an arc in stick welding mode, then it could be an internal problem like a damaged diode or IGBT. Is there a "fault" LED or light on the machine's panel that is lit up?

I would contact Everlast support for assistance (probably via phone, since you are in a hurry.)

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No, I don't get any "fault" LED lights or anything. Everything appears normal, minus the fact that the arc does not form.

I didn't think they'd answer the phone since it's Sunday. But I'll try.

PinkNinja
You can pop the cover and check.
Please PM me your info and ray or mike will call you Monday . We will take care of you , don't worry


Oleg Gladshteyn
Oleg@everlastwelders.com
415 613 664 cell
650 588 8588 work

I just got off the phone with a gentleman from Everlast Canada. (If you read this, again, I apologize for calling your cell phone)

He instructed me to contact Ray.

I'll PM you my info right now.

Verify the voltage on both hot wires at the connector.

With the go ahead from Oleg, I popped the cover off. This "hi-freq" gap that I'm to be looking for isn't so obvious to me.... I figured it would be obvious to spot.
Wires, capacitors, relays, thingy's, and wtf are those are not my speciality. To me it looks like Megatron vomit. I don't really know what to look for.

For what it's worth, that doesn't look like a HF spark gap problem to me. It looks like HF is working and the rest of the welder isn't. The HF turns on and generates the initial arc, but the machine doesn't ever push the high current behind it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zmechanic

For what it's worth, that doesn't look like a HF spark gap problem to me. It looks like HF is working and the rest of the welder isn't. The HF turns on and generates the initial arc, but the machine doesn't ever push the high current behind it.

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Could be the gap is too tight and its limiting the operating voltage.

However, for it to change would require some sort of mechanical shock to the welder, or the points could be pitted badly which reduces the gap, or a bug could have bridged the gap, or...


All speculation at this point.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zmechanic

For what it's worth, that doesn't look like a HF spark gap problem to me. It looks like HF is working and the rest of the welder isn't. The HF turns on and generates the initial arc, but the machine doesn't ever push the high current behind it.

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I still get the exact same thing even when the hi-freq is turned off. IE lift start.

@kenwhite
If by "mechanical shock" you mean dropped, I've never dropped my machine. Or kicked it. Or banged in to it with anything heavy.

@jakeru
The triangular light with the exclamation mark does NOT come on.

Will it weld in stick?

Check your connection at your plug. The wires may have loosened.

White and black =hot.
Green=ground
Red not used.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PinkNinja

...@kenwhite If by "mechanical shock" you mean dropped, I've never dropped my machine. Or kicked it. Or banged in to it with anything heavy...

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I didn't mean that you did, I only meant that for the points to change, something out of the ordinary would have to occur.

I am sure Oleg and Katya will take care of you.

I've had to adjust my points a couple times after someone else has used my welder. I think if you "exercise" the points a lot with a bunch of zapping, they heat and self-adjust.

Not saying that happened here, just what I suspect happens to them a lot.

You're dealing with Duncan (Canada); you have nothing to worry about. (I lost weld current at one point too. It was a victim of a bit of logic. I messed around with it a bit myself, but after I gave up Duncan had a board to me in a couple days.)

Maybe it's just me, but I can't find the 1-877 number on the website. I was told I'd be getting a call from Tech support on Monday but I haven't received such call.

Can anyone tell me this 1-877 number?

look at the very top of the website...white lettering on black
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PinkNinja

Maybe it's just me, but I can't find the 1-877 number on the website. I was told I'd be getting a call from Tech support on Monday but I haven't received such call.

Can anyone tell me this 1-877 number?

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You spoke to me on sunday afternoon i believe. I did give you this number 1 877 755 9353 EXT 207 and i asked you to call on Monday as it was likely not a good time to try to talk to someone. I do not think i said they would call you unless you spoke to someone else that day? If you dial the extension it wil put you through to Ray and he can help with getting your issue resolved or at least verify what the issue may be.
Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Titan winch

You spoke to me on sunday afternoon i believe. I did give you this number 1 877 755 9353 EXT 207 and i asked you to call on Monday as it was likely not a good time to try to talk to someone. I do not think i said they would call you unless you spoke to someone else that day? If you dial the extension it wil put you through to Ray and he can help with getting your issue resolved or at least verify what the issue may be.
Cheers

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Yes, I spoke to you Sunday, but you didn't have the (1-877) number on you at the time, and mentioned getting from the website.

About 30 minutes after I spoke to you, I received a call from Oleg, who informed I should be expecting a call from Either Mike or Ray on Monday.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KSmith

look at the very top of the website...white lettering on black
http://www.everlastgenerators.com/

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That explains it. I kept searching www.everlastwelders.ca

Just an update...
I ended up sending the unit to Everlast Canada. They switched out some boards and the IGBT unit.
I got it back, but I didn't end up using for a month after I got it back.

Ended up having the EXACT same issue. Now I was really frustrated. I called Duncan and we had a nice chat and tossed around some ideas. We decided to that there was a possibility that my power source plug may have had some loose wires. So I disassembled the plug, cut some new ends yada, yada, yada....

I went to hook everything back and test fire it.

(After reading this bit refer to my very first post and take note of what I said on how it was welding)
Upon hooking up the ground cable the connector separated from the cable..... A big ole light bulb went off in my head.
On the cable end of things, there is only approx 1'' of exposed wire left out to be crimped.
The connector itself is about 3''-3.5'' long. There is enough room for the ground cable to completely separate from the connector portion WITHOUT coming completely out of the rubber shrouding.

Meaning your ground could separate and you'll never notice until it completely comes out of the rubber shroud.

So, alas, it was a grounding issue from the start like I initially suspected.


My suggested fix to Duncan.
Put some sort of marking where the cable goes inside the rubber shroud that way if the mark is visible you know your cable has come apart.



After fixing that I came across a new problem, but after borrowing a pedal from a friend (who bought an Everlast on my recommendation) it was determined that my foot pedal is FUBAR'd. Further confirmed by switching to the torch trigger and everything is kosher.....

.....Now I just need to re-learn how to weld .065'' wall aluminum tubing on this machine...