185 Micro Goes Bang!!??!?!?!?!?

Was welding on some steel tubing this morning and finished up and headed for some aluminum angle that I was going to practice on. Switched over to AC adjusted my AC balance to about 50% and Frequency to about the middle of adjustment just to get a feel for things. Laid a bead down and was working on my puddle control without filler and it was looking pretty good. Picked up my filler and cleaned up a new area.....stainless brush wipedown with acetone and let dry. Stepped on the pedal and noticed that my arc really wasn't wanting to start very well. Before I could let off the pedal KABOOM from the machine and the breaker tripped. This is a 40amp breaker and a thin piece of angle so wasn't real sure what happened. Turned off the unit immediately and unplugged from the outlet. Let it sit and scratched my head a minute. Good ground contact..wasn't on DC....Argon flowing and plenty in tank. Turned breaker back on and checked the outlet and all looked well. Plugged machine in no problem. Turned on power switch and KABOOM again. Shut down and unplugged and headed to computer. I'm afraid to turn anything on for fear of damaging the machine or other equipment. Any Ideas or is it back to Everlast to test the warranty service. This is a brand new machine probably used for less than 1hour total. Im wondering if the contact points have closed up completely but not cracking this thing open yet.

So I opened the case to see what was going on. The first thing I noticed and hadn't really paid attention to is the front and rear plastice panels were badly cracked up during shipment it looks like. On the inside......well lets just say its going back to everlast. Never checked the contact points as the circut board on the left side of the machine as you face it is pretty black and toasty. It's packed up and headed back to Everlast.

D2

Please call me Monday and ship unit only. I will cross ship you unit as well

Oleg


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=37.753131,-122.505362

Sorry to hear that problem. The 185's have been a real decent unit as far as that goes. Keep you balance around 35% instead of 50. Did you have a dual voltage or a single voltage unit? Was it on 220V? (With a 40 amp circuit, I'd assume so). And was white and black used as hot?

Mark, does the cleaning balance setting affect the duty cycle of the 185 micro in any way?

This was a dual voltage unit...the last one they had in stock. At the time I wanted the dual voltage unit for flexibility but I really don't need it. Yes it was on 220 and the white and black were used as hot. Machine had been working fine and I had used it on aluminum before without any trouble. I have it boxed up and waiting for the west coasters to rise and shine to get it shipped out.

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Originally Posted by D2junky

This was a dual voltage unit...the last one they had in stock. At the time I wanted the dual voltage unit for flexibility but I really don't need it. Yes it was on 220 and the white and black were used as hot. Machine had been working fine and I had used it on aluminum before without any trouble. I have it boxed up and waiting for the west coasters to rise and shine to get it shipped out.

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Be sure to keep everything except the welder itself.

Welcome to the forum D2.

What a bummer D2. Well it sounds like Mark and Oleg are on top of things I hope you get your new unit soon and have better luck with that one. keep us updated and welcome to the forum.

Well my unit arrived at Everlast yesterday. Sadly the tracking number they have provided me for the replacement says the label was created but it doesn't look like my replacement has been shipped and nothing has arrived on my end as of yet and emails have not been answered. Frustration is setting in.......

The "label was created thing" is pretty useless, tbh. Just means someone made/printed a label.

What is the normal procedure for returning broken equipment?
Does Everlast ship a new one out at the same time as the broken unit is shipped back or do they wait to look at it first?

I was told that as soon as I notified them I had shipped my unit they would ship a replacement. Had great response up until that point from Katya regarding the whole return process. I'll call today and see what's going on as the emails aren't being answered at this point.

I was within my 30 day satisfaction window when the unit blew up so will see what happens and keep everyone posted.

This should answer any "official" questions. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/terms.html

At times we may choose to "expedite" an issue or make a concession but it does not mean that we are compelled to in every case and does not nullify the terms of the policy. The stated policy is the guideline that we follow.

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Originally Posted by Oleg

D2

Please call me Monday and ship unit only. I will cross ship you unit as well

Oleg


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=37.753131,-122.505362

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Hmmmmm? I would think this post by the man himself should clearly explain what should have been done! Why start all this BS about company policy after the owner already posted this? NOT IMPRESSED

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Originally Posted by D2junky

I was within my 30 day satisfaction window when the unit blew up so will see what happens and keep everyone posted.

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D2 as you know .. you got the LaST dual voltage unit we had in stock when you called

new 110/220 batch came in on Monday and already on the way to you !

sorry took few days longer then expected. We just got new batch of dual voltage units

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Originally Posted by brad3579

What is the normal procedure for returning broken equipment?
Does Everlast ship a new one out at the same time as the broken unit is shipped back or do they wait to look at it first?

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We wait for item to be delivered to us BUT in some cases we cross ship

case by case

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Originally Posted by Oleg

D2 as you know .. you got the LaST dual voltage unit we had in stock when you called

new 110/220 batch came in on Monday and already on the way to you !

sorry took few days longer then expected. We just got new batch of dual voltage units

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I would think this explains everything..... Oleg had you posted this in this thread my original post here wouldn't have ever took place... But since you had already posted about a cross dresser...... OH yea a cross shipment I couldn't understand why you didn't follow through and Mark started with all this company policy stuff since you had already spoken and indicated that you were cross shipping..

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Originally Posted by Oleg

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You were mad ........ admit it !! LOL!!!!!!!!! Temper, temper ............

I was responding to Brad's question Gunner. The policy is there for the benefit of establishing a procedure and CLEAR understanding of what is the company backs across the board as a minimum action.

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Originally Posted by GUNNER

You were mad ........ admit it !! LOL!!!!!!!!! Temper, temper ............

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yes i was Mike .. haha

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Originally Posted by GUNNER

I would think this explains everything..... Oleg had you posted this in this thread my original post here wouldn't have ever took place... But since you had already posted about a cross dresser...... OH yea a cross shipment I couldn't understand why you didn't follow through and Mark started with all this company policy stuff since you had already spoken and indicated that you were cross shipping..

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In some cases we can cross ship it .. but costumer DID get the lost dual voltage unit. Nothing we could of done.

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Originally Posted by zoama585

last one....... Some cases :)

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thanks you , i had a looooong day

Thought I would give everyone an update.........I received my new unit. Face plate on this one is cracked too. No biggy....I have some lumps and bumps as well. Been waiting for the gas man to arrive with Argon and it came Friday morning. I live in the sticks....its a pain. Anyway off the bat I'm experiencing rough arc starts on AC. Initially no problem on DC but now on DC as well. With the AC balance turned down to about 9 oclock on the dial I get no arc start at all. Once I have the balance up to about 10 oclock I'll get a rough start but then things smooth out when I give it more pedal. I'm welding some 1/8 inch 5052. I'll get a great bead going and about halfway through the arc stuttters and spits until it just plain wont weld. Figure I'll check the points gap and go to open the case and there are NO SCREWS HOLDING THE BACK COVER ON. Frustratiion is mounting as I wait for the west coasters to come in but I'm not happy at all at this point. Ugh I'm two months behind on a motorcycle I should be riding at this point.

It sounds as if it could be bad gas...if the arc is sputtering. That would account for it in DC and AC. It is one possibility. The other is indeed point gap settings, if it is a problem with starting.

What Tungsten are you using?

2%lanthanated 3/32. Changed cylinders and same thing. The arc start is not near as rough on DC on the pedal. The initial start on AC is once again rough but once the AMPS come up it smooths out for a while and then starts sputtering after about two inches of bead. Its hard to describe I guess but I'll have a great bead going after the inital rough start and then it just all goes to crap.

Where are you running your AC frequency? 9 on the dial for AC cleaning is a good place to set it. Also if the arc is fading out, try adjusting your work clamp or repositioning it. If necessary, try to ground the cable directly to the metal. If gas isn't the cause, the next most common issue is with workclamp placement or malfunction. Pics might help

just checked the point gap......was nearly closed. I'm guessing theres some heat going into these points during operation and the gap was close enough that it was closing down and the cause of the sputter. Ill fire things up and post the results.

As an aside while im pissin and moaning......spend the extra bucks on some quality screw for the case.. im using a properly sized phillips drive and every damn one of them is so soft that after about two turns they strip.

I've tried the frequency all over the place to see if that changed the problem. Acts pretty much the same bottom to top. More noticeable at higher frequency. Work clamp is as close to the weld as possible on stainless brushed and cleaned metal. Clamp is always grounded to the work piece. And am usually at the 9 o'clock positioni on AC balance.

Before they were too loose, now they are too tight. That seems to be a constant battle. They are small screws, and do not tolerate overtorquing or cross threading. I typically keep a bag of quality fasteners from Fastenal close at hand to replace mine, or any that I work on. We have discussed that issue at the factory...Hopefully with a little more pressure we can get items like those resolved. It a major rework of the suppliers for changes like these...and it takes more time to fix the small issues than the big ones.

Edit: Clamps can be defective or the bolt holding the cable or the lug at the bolt can be oxidized...creating issues. That is why I suggest removing the clamp, and directly grounding the lug if you can to try it. Likely its primarily the gap issue. On AC, if the tungsten becomes contaminated, it can create the arc destabilization as well.

Are you trying to ball your tungsten? Using it in the negative side right?

Not trying to ball it and yes using it on the negative side. I actually get much better arc performace with a tapered tip. I get really nice welds once the arc starts until it started sputtering but I think it was the gap issue as much as anything.
I understand on the screws and suppliers. I completely understand when you buy a bin of screws you better use them up and it can be a bitch to switch the small things. I'm a big fan of allen or torx heads and since point gap maintenance is a common deal with any TIG i'll be replacing my screws with such.

And i hope it don't come across as being to much of a pain. I love this little machine and understand how stuff happens. The features are great and lead me away from a diversion. I"m a hardcore hobbiest at best but would like to perfect my skills before I jump to a bigger machine.

After alot of screwing around tonight with collets cups tungsten gas glow etc. etc. I finally unplugged the damn pedal and tried things just using the switch on the torch. Nice stable arc and nice stable arc start right off the bat. Tried with the frequency turned all the way down and up and AC balance everywhere in between and its a nice steady arc all the way with no spitting sputtering etc. I been fighting this damn pedal the whole time and never once thought to unplug and go back to the torch switch. Makes me wonder if it was the cause of the original kaboom. Unfortunately im still screwed on progress for this weeks project as welding .062 3003 aluminum with no foot pedal is a bitch and a half. I'll be in touch tomorrow with you Mark to see what we can do on the pedal and lets hope they aren't all this bad. As long as you are in the last half of the pedals range things work fine but the first half sucks.

If I don't take a straight punch and run it in to the holes on my collet body and tighten it up good and tight, mine will act kinda like that.

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Originally Posted by srp

If I don't take a straight punch and run it in to the holes on my collet body and tighten it up good and tight, mine will act kinda like that.

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Check for corrosion in the torch threads... they should look like brass or copper, not white or green.

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Originally Posted by zoama585

Check for corrosion in the torch threads... they should look like brass or copper, not white or green.

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It's definitely the pedal in my case if u didn't read my last post. Unplugged the pedal and went back to using the switch on the torch and all is well. I'll be contacting them for a new pedal today.

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Originally Posted by D2junky

It's definitely the pedal in my case if u didn't read my last post. Unplugged the pedal and went back to using the switch on the torch and all is well. I'll be contacting them for a new pedal today.

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Solid troubleshooting. Not much on a pedal that can go wrong I would think.

D2- There was a trailer picked up by UPS but not trans-shipped last Friday of about a hundred machines. Mine is on the truck for delivery now. Yours probably is too.