Powerarc 161 STH settings

[TNDoug]

Just an added note: stick out: flush, 1/4", 1/2". Torch on negative, ground lead on positive. Looking for some guidance on set up. Thanks.

[christian]

Yeah,

Try settling on a medium-large cup size of #8, with about 15 CFH Argon, i.e., forget about getting rainbow color heat signatures, as you probably don’t plan to do any Argon back-purging anyway (I didn’t). .5 sec of pre-flow is plenty, and 5 sec of post-flow is pretty good for such low amps, but some ss pros seem to use more post-flow. Although, like me, I’m guessing that you’re not going for ss exhaust weld porn on your first go, i.e., is it for your own vehicle, like mine was?

Your stick-out could be around 3/8” to see your arc well and keep the tungsten fairly uncontaminated. Although, regrinding a tungsten pretty often with early TIG projects is something I recommend and have done, too.

1/16” filler or 3/32” are both fine. 1/16” takes more dabbing proficiency and speed than 3/32”, though, to keep from burning through.

That muffler I used was a MagnaFlow, and had a wall thickness that matched the ss tubing pretty well. But the resonator has a very thin wall thickness and an imperfect fit, so I had to make a wider ramp-up weave pass, that I later ground out to get the seamless look.

So, show us some of the materials you’re using. You know tubing thickness, which muffler, any resonator, etc.

Let’s see some pics…

[TNDoug]

I own a full on restoration shop specializing in classic cars from the 30's to the 80's. I've been restoring cars for 40 plus years. This exhaust is for a 280 ZX turbo with 3 inch stainless exhaust. We just bought this tig machine for the shop. We normally don't build exhaust systems so it's a new one for us. I did notice that the manual states "2T, 4T, pedal". We have 2T and pedal lit up. Should just be one, not both. Photos to follow.

[christian]

Yeah,

I didn't use a pedal on that DC-only TIG welding unit I had at that time (I didn't have my Everlast 210EXT at that time, or yet).

So, you don?t really need a pedal on DC TIG, and can run it kind of like MIG or Stick.

Yeah, I believe 2T and Pedal can both be lit up, and may be useful that way for some amptrol devices. But just cycle the button to 2T alone for a MIG or Stick-like action. You'll still get the post-flow.

So, you are doing it 2T and no Pedal then, right? I mean, that's a good way too. Don't bother with the Pedal if it's something new for you guys. TIG is a two-handed process, so filling with your other hand will keep you busy enough.

Otherwise, I'd structure the system so that all the welding can be done on the bench. That's what I did.

[TNDoug]

We have a pedal and the torch upgrade. This system has a 3" Magnaflow muffler, stainless flex pipe, 3 exhaust band clamps for easy removal and is 3" from front to back over the axle and a 3" to 4" end cap. We tacked the system for fit up on the car and now we're trying to get a real nice look on the welds. My grandsons are inheriting the shop and want to build high performance engines (too new for me). We build engines and transmissions now and have a full paint shop. They learn quick and are "tech" savvy (I'm not).

[christian]

Yeah,

Nice looking welds will most likely happen on the bench, with a bit bigger cup, more Argon flow, some back-purging, along with a lot of stainless TIG welding experience.

Or, like I did, as a newbie, none of that, and just some flap disc action to get a seamless look to hide the unflattering bead appearance. Ha, ha, ha... I mean, I could have brushed-out those beads with a wire wheel to make them look OK, but I knew I'd probably want the nicer seamless look.

But, it would be nice to see a pic of the layout, fit-up, and tack-up, i.e., how many actual welded joints there'll be.

Otherwise, that 161STH seems to have a Pulse feature, which may help control your heat input, especially with no Pedal. So, try some practice pieces with Pulse.

We have a pedal and the torch upgrade. This system has a 3" Magnaflow muffler, stainless flex pipe, 3 exhaust band clamps for easy removal and is 3" from front to back over the axle and a 3" to 4" end cap. We tacked the system for fit up on the car and now we're trying to get a real nice look on the welds. My grandsons are inheriting the shop and want to build high performance engines (too new for me). We build engines and transmissions now and have a full paint shop. They learn quick and are "tech" savvy (I'm not).

[TNDoug]

We use a mig welder a lot in the shop for body work. We're set up to back purge so we'll see how it goes. The "boys" have better hand/eye co-ordination so they'll figure it out. Thanks for the input, sounds like we're headed in the right direction.