Can you guys give me some guidance on my 210ext

[Gnfanatic]

hello everyone, my first TIG machine and new to TIG. I set everything, got my 100% argon. I have the following so far....

#6 cup with a 1/16 Tungsten
Pressure gauge is at 12 psi
I have it set at 80 amps to play around with some steel
2T setting
I am using the hand control for now so I can learn it because I would like to do some tig work INSIDE my car where a foot pedal would be impossible to use.

Any tips and help would be appreciated it. I have been watching youtube videos as well and browsing this forum

thanks guys!!

[christian]

Yeah,

I think it’s better for a TIG novice to forego using a pedal on DC TIG, at least to begin with.

I mean, that’s what I did the whole time I had a non-Everlast DC-only TIG unit, which didn’t come standard with a pedal or other amptrol device.

It’s pretty easy to do DC TIG without one, as you can go back to the panel and make a quick adjustment of the amperage just like is so common with Stick or MIG. And you learn quicker how to control the heat input through travel speed and using the filler too. Later, a pedal will be proverbial icy on the so-called cake, but will be one less thing to have to concentrate on, initially. Of course, an amptrol device on AC for aluminum is almost essential. Not so with DC, though.

Otherwise, the 1/16” tungsten is OK if you keep the amps down. But anything closer to 100 amps may cause the tungsten to spit molecules or particles into the puddle, which may seem like you accidentally dipped the tungsten. But if you just doing light sheet stuff, 1/16” is good. I use a 3/32” for everything from low amps to the 210 amp max of my 210EXT, but most often still use 1/6” filler rod, since I like smaller beads, usually.

12 CFH is a good setting for a #6 cup, or even up to an #8, for most things, especially if you’re also using a gas lens.

Also, having a seated position to weld with, while also having props for both your torch and filler hands are very helpful. Practice a filler hand technique is good, especially when using 1/6” filler rod, as you’ll have to go faster with your filler when using smaller rod.

So, yeah, have a ball, as your proverbial planets seem to be in alignment. Upload some pics of your progress.

[Gnfanatic]

Thanks for the reply Christian. I changed the cup to a #7 and using 3/32 Tungsten and things are going well on metal thats 1/8in thick or more. I am getting better. Issue is thin metal like automotive stuff. I am either burning through it or when I lower amps it doesnt start a puddle. I am hoping to tig weld a 14ga thick steel brace to 16ga steel. So I am playing with the amperage , any tips on this would be grateful.

[christian]

Yeah,

Thin stuff is tricky.

So, you might want to come up with a pulsed technique. There's a back-stepping technique too. And most hobbyist auto welding in the past has undoubtedly more often been done with MIG, which developed a "step-welding" technique (not necessarily back-stepping) that is mostly just a series of spot welds, to reduce heat input ann turning body panels into something resembling a giant potato chip...

Thanks for the reply Christian. I changed the cup to a #7 and using 3/32 Tungsten and things are going well on metal thats 1/8in thick or more. I am getting better. Issue is thin metal like automotive stuff. I am either burning through it or when I lower amps it doesnt start a puddle. I am hoping to tig weld a 14ga thick steel brace to 16ga steel. So I am playing with the amperage , any tips on this would be grateful.

[Gnfanatic]

I spotted welded the brace in place. Went very smooth but scared #### to starting rolling beads down.

[christian]

Gee,

That looks great.

Try just putting more tacks by jumping around a lot, and giving little cooling periods often, until you've got tacks at about each 1" or 3/4", which may give enough extra metal deposition to prevent the tendency to burn through or keyhole too much, for an actual bead length.

Then you'll know if you can pull off a semi-continuous seam for a few inches, and if a pulse or back-stepping is called for.

Otherwise, a series of contiguous-looking tacks is an actual technique for body work, even though I've never had a need or opportunity to do any.

[christian]

Also,

After some quick practice pieces, you could use a combination of a lay-wire technique and a slow pulse, by doubling your amperage and setting Pulse to 1 Hz (pulse per second), 50% Time On, and 50% Background/Base current. The filler wire laid along the lap weld would help keep the edge from key holing away a bit, and the 1Hz pulse would give a nice TIG bead appearance without having to be too worried about hand coordination of the filler rod.

Or, you could try a higher speed Pulse, and fill normally by dabbing, at that same higher amperage, which will average down to wherever you're at without Pulse, setting to about 50Hz (pulses per second), 50% Time On, and 50% Background current.

[christian]

Yeah,

It occurred to me further, that an increase of only 50% more amps would be the same as you were using with no pulse, when setting Pulse to 50% Time On and 50% Background current, average wise.

[christian]

So,

How'd that go?

I mean, I'm guessing it's all good.

But, honestly, MIG with a step-welding technique is undoubtedly the faster and easier way to go.

Although, some petite little TIG beading might be good, which may not call for any flap-disc grinding of beading like a MIG technique probably would.