What You've Welded Recently With Your Everlast Unit

[christian]

Here's a bit more on that aluminum chain guard fabbin'.

I believe these aluminum collars are a cast variety, not billet.

Welding the first one wasn't as easy as the second, which I was able to do in a single pass. Nothing too pretty, but better than the first collar.

With the first one I tended to burn-in a coating of filler onto the collar before joining it to the sheet diamond plate, in an effort to kind of insulate the final puddle from the impurities in the cast. That made for a wider bead, though. And I like them narrower, even on a fillet, if possible.

On the second collar I turned up the Argon and AC balance a bit, then just ignored any peppering I saw coming out of the cast portion and just crammed the filler in the puddle, which seemed to make the puddle clean up well enough.

[christian]

Well,

I did a good bit more on the aluminum, diamond plate chain guard.

Mostly just fit-up and tack-up, which seemed to take me half the day. Lots of OK tacks, but then using a flap disc and orbital sander to reduce the tendency for irregularities in the welding beads for the two outside corner joints.





But I decided not to rush into the final welding, and to wait for some ambient indoor daylight tomorrow. I plan to flap disc the final beads down anyway, to better match the brushed metal finish that I like, regardless of how nice (or poor looking) the beaded seams turn out. But I still like to have fairly ideal conditions with aluminum TIG, since I'm really still a novice at it. I mean, I've had my 210EXT for nearly 3-1/2 years, but my actual time on it with aluminum projects and practice is still only about 8 or 9 hours of actual welding. Of course, with DC TIG, a lot more. But I'm often looking for stuff I can weld using aluminum, and especially diamond plate aluminum, as I've been a long-time a fan of diamond plate and expanded metal in ferrous metals.

Anyway, I'll undoubtedly post a pic of the final outcome on this portion of the project.

[christian]

Yeah, Mark, it'll be an eTrike. Not for me, though. But I think I'll keep as a staging platform or a demo of some sort. I took the basic, cheap, old adult trike in exchange for some labor I did in refurbishing a vintage porch glider for an elderly neighbor. Her trike-riding days were over. She got the trike for free and I didn't want to take any money from her. I was initially just going to add the 5-speed internal hub to the drive train and sell it off at a garage sale, but it kept spinning off into a greater project somehow. Silly me. But it's fun too.

Anyway, here’s the chain guard with the welding done. Single pass on both seams. I used Squarewave, even though I’ve sometime used Triangle wave to be extra safe in preventing overheating and metal dropping out. It did start to keyhole-out a little at the end of each seam, but it wasn’t a problem.



The top view shows the middle strip having a non-diagonal patten in the diamond plate, since I only had enough metal to make that strip in one piece with the non-diagonal patten. was a little hesitant about that, and considered stitching two strips up to keep the diagonal pattern, but then decided to make it easier on myself and just call it a “design feature” in its pattern deviation.



The inside view isn’t remarkable, except that it was a tight tolerance between the chainring and the base of the crank arms. And even though I seemed to hit it spot on, at about one inch, I still might grind off the back side of that one crank arm to give some spare clearance. Also, I installed a bottom bracket wheel that accepts a eccentric-arranged bearing cassette, so the chainring and crank spindle is able to be adjusted for tightening the chain, and that made for a bit of an extra challenge in leaving enough room in the chain guard for the chainring to be moved around in a cam-like fashion. But I mostly allotted only for rotation in the lower half, i.e., full tightening and loosening can be done on either half of the circumference, or both. This is the first time I’ve used one of these eccentric arrangements, and I like the idea for their chain tightening ability, also since they don’t have threads in the bottom bracket shell, which makes them easier to weld on.



Here’s the finished guard, installed with the beads smoothed off with a flap disc and given a brushed finish, which I like better than even the good looking TIG beads on the more decorative stuff. I mean, TIG, MIG or Stick beads and seams remind me of Frankenstein, so to speak. Of course, on structural stuff or welded tanks, better to have more metal deposition and seam integrity. But this was a somewhat esthetic portion of the project, so I allowed for a some excessive metal finishing.

[oleblu72]

That looks nice Christian and looks like your making progress. Is this going to be a dual power bike Christian I would imagine so being a ebike? What kind of motor/battery combination are you going to use?

Mark

[christian]

Yeah, Mark,

The motor is a Cyclone 3000, which is a first mid-mount style that I’ve purchased. Previously I’ve installed a few planetary-gear (rather than direct drive) wheel hub motor, which are laced into a bike rim. This Cyclone has planetary gears too (5:1 reduction, I believe) and a freewheeling clutch at the drive shaft (unenclosed, I like that).



It’s called a “3000” since it can theoretically maintain a 3000 watt output with a 90 volt battery and a 35-50 amp controller, I believe. But I’ll just be using it with a 28 amp (I think it is) controller and a 51.8 volt (charges up to about 58.5 volts) battery that has a 19 pouch cell of a fairly recent Lithium-NMC (nickel, manganese, cobalt) chemistry. And that will net me about half the output of the 3000 theoretical watt output, as I don’t like to push this stuff in amps and heat. Plus it’s costs more to do that, and, 25 mph is plenty-fast on city streets.

I originally had this motor mounted at the bottom bracket/crank arms. But I didn’t like all the clutter there, which also looked pretty menacing. You know, like a chainsaw. I mean, ideally this thing has a target as a grocery hauler for young mothers and a kid in the cargo bay. So I decided to move the motor to the rear, with the ability to freewheel directly to one axle, while the pedals power the other axle. That could theoretically provide some dual-drive action for getting out of mud or snow, I suppose. But I added an extra sprocket to the 5-speed hub, too, so that I could drive the motor through the 5-speed hub as well, to give the motor a transmission to power through. But the drawback in that will be that I’ll lose the freewheeling action, except when the motor is being powered. And that mean it would have some magnetic drag from the motor, if I do that. The magnetic drag is not so much, really, but it makes for slightly more difficult pedaling alone.

We’ll see how it goes. I’m hoping the ratio and power is adequate enough without going through the added 5-speed hub to give take-offs without the need for initial pedaling, if desired, and without lugging the motor. But, if need be, I can recruit the gears, and hopefully they’ll hold up to the applied torque for a bit.

It’s a project that I’m not in a hurry with. It has been fun enough, though it has cascaded into more than I initially planned. But these are the funnest stages, I think, so I’m kind of savoring them.

[oleblu72]

Sounds like a cool project Christian can't wait to see the finished project. Sounds like you're going to have to experiment with different variations before you get it right.

Mark

[christian]

Yeah,

There's no real intended "right' or stopping point for it, as I kind of intend for it to be an ongoing staging platform, so to speak.

I mean, I included a mount for motors to both rear axles. So, someday I may decide to make it dual-electric RWD, even though that isn't too likely.

Also, I may later decide to fit it with dual, rear disc brakes, if I can squeeze them in there.