Understanding "Arc Force" and how to set for different rods

[aland]

I have done some searching and I find advice to either turn up or turn down the Arc Force, but can't find a good explanation of what Arc Force actually does.

From the manual:

"Controls the arc response when an arc is held short and voltage begins to drop. Arc
force automatically compensates by modifying the volt/amp curve to maintain the
energy needed to weld. Represented as a percent of available amperage."

I don't fully understand how the percentage effects how the arc functions, does anyone understand that who could explain it?

How does this pertain to different rod, say for 6011, 6013, 7018, 7024 ?

Alan

[Rambozo]

As you shorten your arc length, the voltage drops. Since the amps stays the same on a constant current machine, the overall power drops. (Power = Volts * Amps) Then the puddle cools a little and before you know it you have stuck the rod and the arc goes out. By having the arc force turned up, as the voltage drops the amperage goes up so you keep the same power and the rod doesn't stick. Most of the time this is a good thing. However, for thin materials like sheet metal, it can also cause you to blow holes in your work, so for that you turn it down. Different rods and applications require different settings. It is a neat feature that lets you keep a really tight arc without sticking the rod. It's one of those features that makes you look better than you are, as it will compensate for slight variations in arc length. It does require a slight change in technique, since with it on, you close the arc length to get more power instead of opening it up. That mainly applies to 6010/6011 where the old technique was to whip and pause. Inverters don't like a long arc, and will shut down if the voltage goes too high, so you have to keep a short arc and use the arc force to get the dig you want. That's why on some machines the arc force control is labeled "Dig".

[aland]

As you shorten your arc length, the voltage drops. Since the amps stays the same on a constant current machine, the overall power drops. (Power = Volts * Amps) Then the puddle cools a little and before you know it you have stuck the rod and the arc goes out. By having the arc force turned up, as the voltage drops the amperage goes up so you keep the same power and the rod doesn't stick. Most of the time this is a good thing. However, for thin materials like sheet metal, it can also cause you to blow holes in your work, so for that you turn it down. Different rods and applications require different settings. It is a neat feature that lets you keep a really tight arc without sticking the rod. It's one of those features that makes you look better than you are, as it will compensate for slight variations in arc length. It does require a slight change in technique, since with it on, you close the arc length to get more power instead of opening it up. That mainly applies to 6010/6011 where the old technique was to whip and pause. Inverters don't like a long arc, and will shut down if the voltage goes too high, so you have to keep a short arc and use the arc force to get the dig you want. That's why on some machines the arc force control is labeled "Dig".

This was part of my problem when I was padding beads several days ago. I had my arc force set to 45% and I was having some intermittent problems with the electrode sticking some.

This makes sense the way you describe it, and also why I was probably not getting very good results with 6011 also, as I didn't change the arc force at all when going between different electrodes. Thanks for the explanation.

I also found a couple pages that Jody Collier put up over on WeldingTipsAndTricks talking about arc force.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/arc-force.html

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...g-project.html

Alan

[aland]

Rambozo,

I've been anxious to try this out with more arc force, but unfortunately have been under the weather with the flu...

Got me to thinking though, does this mean if you had it on 100% the amps wouldn't change as the arc gets shorter or longer?

Is it a bad idea to have it on 100%? I'll try turning it up some, but not all the way and experiment with it, was just curious if
you know the answer to that? I probably won't be able to get to this for a couple days with the way I have been feeling...

Alan

[Rambozo]

If you have it on 0% it will be effectively turned off. At 100% you will get the maximum amount that it can deliver. Some machines have separate voltage and current settings, but most group those together in one control, and some have an auto control with no settings. Once you use it, you will find it is pretty easy to understand what the effects are. A lot depends on how consistent a welder you are. In theory if you hold the arc length exactly the same, all the time, you would only find that your amps setting is slightly off what you set it for. On the other hand if you are all over the place with arc length it cannot compensate for that. However, in between those extremes is where it can help you get a more consistent weld, and not have the rod stick if you get a little too close.

[aland]

If you have it on 0% it will be effectively turned off. At 100% you will get the maximum amount that it can deliver. Some machines have separate voltage and current settings, but most group those together in one control, and some have an auto control with no settings. Once you use it, you will find it is pretty easy to understand what the effects are. A lot depends on how consistent a welder you are. In theory if you hold the arc length exactly the same, all the time, you would only find that your amps setting is slightly off what you set it for. On the other hand if you are all over the place with arc length it cannot compensate for that. However, in between those extremes is where it can help you get a more consistent weld, and not have the rod stick if you get a little too close.

I am anxious to try this out, and just trying to recover here from the flu...feeling a bit better today, so maybe tomorrow or Sat.

What you have explained is very helpful, and I understand now that the amperage actually does change depending on the arc, that is something I hadn't known. Is using the length of arc a technique that would allow you to heat and cool the puddle in the case where arc force is not available on a welder? IOW, is that something a welder would do? If I think about whip and pause, it seems to do just that, but with 7018 is more drag. However, I understand what you were originally saying, that if the puddle cools too much, that is when the electrode will stick to the weld, and that was a small issue that I was having and believe I was keep the arc longer to prevent that.

I will certainly pay closer attention when I can get to the welder soon, but just curious if changing the arc is something that a welder could use in a difficult situation where arc force is not available on the welder itself?

Thanks for you help in explaining this, much appreciated.

Alan