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Thread: Evolution cold saw???

  1. #1

    Default Evolution cold saw???

    Anyone ever use one??? I never heard of evolution before, but sounds like they are out there. I was wanting to pick up a chop saw and ran across the cold saws (ones that use a steel blade instead of a abrasive blade.) The biggest problem is the cold saw blades are expensive. Starting price is about $400 and go way up. The Rage 2 had a price close to $300 a few years ago and now I see them on sale for under $200. Blades are expensive, but they last a lot longer than abrasive blades, as long as you are easy on them. Most damage is from forcing the cut. A lot less mess and cleaner cut than a abrasive blade. The reviews are considerably better than abrasive saws.

    I can't find anyone who stocks them. Order only.

    Rage 2

    Brian... Still lurking in corners...
    Shade tree MIG welder.
    Now a Shade tree TIG welder.

  2. #2

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    Sears used too. Think HD did at one time too.

    https://www.google.com/search?num=30...k1.av7Skn75ljM
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  3. #3
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    Default

    I got the Northern Tool version a year or two ago. Posted a review here as well. I've been super happy with it. Still on the original blade, but it has taken some damage. Picked up a new blade from Amazon, but have yet to try it. No looking back at the abrasive chop saw it replaced. Still keep that around for trash cutting or something hardened, but maybe use it once a year. I liked that the vise jaws are cast iron instead of stamped steel, and the base is diecast aluminum. This is not really a cold saw, I see most use the label "dry cut saw" A true cold saw like a Scotchman runs with coolant and spins super slow, like under 100 rpm. These are carbide tipped and spin around 1000 rpm. Still almost as burr free, and very little heat in the part. The best thing has to be the lack of abrasive dust. Get one, you'll be glad you did.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  4. #4

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    If you search the Everlast forum for rage, dry cut, cold cut and evolution (upper right corner). You should find a lot of info as well as the northern review.
    Last edited by everlastsupport; 06-03-2017 at 12:09 AM.
    Mike R.
    Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
    www.everlastgenerators.com
    www.everlastwelders.com
    877-755-9353 x203
    M-F 12 - 7PM PST
    FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.

  5. Default

    I have one and like it a lot!

    Beats my old DeWalt hands down.

    Yes, the blades are expensive but they are resharpen-able also.
    From the desk of Kevin Caron, where the answers are stranger than the questions....

    www.kevincaron.com

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Caron View Post
    Yes, the blades are expensive but they are resharpen-able also.
    I have heard resharpenable, but the problem I hear is broken teeth. Forcing the blade too hard into the metal or having the piece come loose and doing damage to the blade. (not falling free or not clamped down well)

    BTW I had a guy say the blades last longer if you start the cut on a corner, not on a flat side.
    Shade tree MIG welder.
    Now a Shade tree TIG welder.

  7. Default

    Yes, Broken teeth are the big killer. The shop I use can replace and resharpen 3 teeth and still come out cheaper than a new blade. Anymore than 3 and just toss it.

    And yes, always start on an edge or corner. Starting/finishing on the flat just burns them up quicker..
    From the desk of Kevin Caron, where the answers are stranger than the questions....

    www.kevincaron.com

  8. Default

    I too bought that Northern "dry cut" saw 3-4yrs ago. I've been really happy with it but ever since I cut some 18ga SS channel, it never cut the same. I ruined the blade by doing that I now see.

    Good news is, the cost of a Diablo Cermet II blade has come down so much (@$85) and with that in it, I'm now cutting better than ever! I'm not sure these would be resharnenable though. There are So Many angles on the alternating teeth, I'm sue the set-up for each of them would make it too expensive compared with new.

    Here's an Excellent video on proper clamping for longevity; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1DYRWDVquo

  9. #9

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    I've been happy with the Rage 3 DB for the last two years. The slide action eliminates those clamp angle issues and you can quickly change angles with no tools or measuring.
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    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  10. Default

    check with your local saw shop, mine only charges $40 dollars to sharpen mine.
    From the desk of Kevin Caron, where the answers are stranger than the questions....

    www.kevincaron.com

  11. Default

    Maybe,,, but here's the thing with that Diablo.

    A normal sharpining has 2 sets (L & R) but besides that this blade has a 3rd center cut "plow" that's kinda tombstone shaped so it has 3 angles on it alone. My conjecture is that having to run the blade 5 times for those 5 different cuts would make it so much more than regular that it's cost would have top approach new.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blaster View Post
    Here's an Excellent video on proper clamping for longevity; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l1DYRWDVquo
    Nice video. Does anyone know where to get a vise block that has the V notch like in the video??? Sure looks like it has a better grip to it.
    Shade tree MIG welder.
    Now a Shade tree TIG welder.

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blaster View Post
    Maybe,,, but here's the thing with that Diablo.

    A normal sharpining has 2 sets (L & R) but besides that this blade has a 3rd center cut "plow" that's kinda tombstone shaped so it has 3 angles on it alone. My conjecture is that having to run the blade 5 times for those 5 different cuts would make it so much more than regular that it's cost would have top approach new.
    Maybe with that blade it will last a lot longer. How well does it hold up to stainless??? I am a little timid with this saw, it said for mild steel. Not sure if I will know what is harder than mild steel.

    The Evo replacement blade is about $65. Good price, but it is a combo blade with 36 teeth. The standard Evo steel cutting blade is $90 (66 tooth) and the Evo stainless blade is $136 (90 tooth) The prices sure jump fast.
    Shade tree MIG welder.
    Now a Shade tree TIG welder.

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ski View Post
    Nice video. Does anyone know where to get a vise block that has the V notch like in the video??? Sure looks like it has a better grip to it.
    It doesn't come with the $468 saw, it's a $43 accessory... https://www.amazon.com/Morse-CSP14A0...W337ZJADZ3JW7Q
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  15. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ski View Post
    Maybe with that blade it will last a lot longer. How well does it hold up to stainless??? I am a little timid with this saw, it said for mild steel. Not sure if I will know what is harder than mild steel.

    The Evo replacement blade is about $65. Good price, but it is a combo blade with 36 teeth. The standard Evo steel cutting blade is $90 (66 tooth) and the Evo stainless blade is $136 (90 tooth) The prices sure jump fast.
    After my experience with my Northern saw on SS, that was one of my prime considerations. They actually say this blade is designed to cut stainless...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUbPeARKAWI

  16. Default

    I just put those blocks on my Northern saw....

    So when I clicked on zoama's link yesterday to Amazon it came up as $39. free shipping from Coastal Tool. I made an "impulse" purchase, it arrived today, I drilled 7 tapped my saw and put them on already!

    I like 'em

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blaster View Post
    I just put those blocks on my Northern saw.... I like 'em
    Well with a review like that.... I did order the 39$ ones. Now it would be nice to get the saw.

    Wife already has me planning the block patio project. Saw was ordered with the diamond masonry blade....

    Of course we looked at pavers and they were on sale...... I had to come back with the trailer....

    Geez... have I got the projects...
    Shade tree MIG welder.
    Now a Shade tree TIG welder.

  18. #18

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    Well the saw was sitting on the porch when I got home today. The box looked like they dragged it behind the truck by the straps from the fedex hub. Cardboard ripped open, styrofoam sticking out, holes in the box. Gads, Well I took a couple pics, because I might need them. I opened it up and dusted off the shredded styrofoam. It looked pretty good. One bent foot, easily straightened. The auto closing blade cover, stuck in the open position. I messed with it a little and hit it with some WD40, then it started sliding properly. Better than I expected from the damage to the box.

    It did come with an angle block that fit on the vise. Eh, I will still use the ones I ordered. This only has one slot and it is a slip on tin one. The saw seems pretty good quality. Well when I get caught up on a few started projects I will post how I like it. It may be a little while.
    Shade tree MIG welder.
    Now a Shade tree TIG welder.

  19. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ski View Post
    It did come with an angle block that fit on the vise. Eh, I will still use the ones I ordered.
    Here's what you could do....

    I started to miss the 9" back fence I lost when attaching just a 4" block back there. I think I've always been reassured on the squareness of the clamp (I am particular about using a square to ensure it's going to be 90* to the blade) and it just felt it could be kinda "wiggly" when reduced to less than 1/2 of that. Since I already had the 8X1.25 tap and 1/4" drill out from installing the blocks, I padded-out the far side of the fence to match (this wasn't as easy as it sounds, these blocks are 20mm and I don't have anything 20mm kickin' around so it took some effort to create )
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blaster View Post
    Here's what you could do....

    I started to miss the 9" back fence I lost when attaching just a 4" block back there. I think I've always been reassured on the squareness of the clamp (I am particular about using a square to ensure it's going to be 90* to the blade)
    Well I could not understand what you meant until I looked at your picture. You have a wide fence. Mine is a lot more narrower. 5 inch??? The evoloution uses a sheet meat stamped fence and vice. (yours is cast) While messing with it I noticed if you cranked it down hard you can get a bit of a flex in the back fence. I may give it a little reinforcement.

    BTW When I grabbed the first piece of steel to cut, I grabbed the handle and said you know better. I grabbed a square and checked how true the fence was. It was right on. Good idea to check.

    As far as a review, I have never used an abrasive saw before, so I cannot compare it to one. Well the saw cut great. No problems. First time out I made about 50 cuts on some angle iron. Little thicker than 1/8 inch. Only one problem. This stuff was something I salvaged. It was torch cut. One cut with the torch was kind of V cut. Hard to explain. I cut with the saw to close to the end and it jumped the gap and broke a tooth. Well I am learning.

    As far as the shards of metal and noise, The metal chips were not near as bad as I thought. A full face shield is needed. and nice to pull it down so you do not get stung in the neck. The noise was tolerable. I have used a lot louder tools before. It looks like quite a decent saw for the money.

    BTW the 50 or so cuts I made, would have taken me all day with a different saw. Plus the time truing them up. This was fast, true and neat. I did have to touch them up on a grinder, but only to clean off the paint prior to welding. If it was clean steel, I could have just welded it.
    Shade tree MIG welder.
    Now a Shade tree TIG welder.

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