The first thing is the hot start "feature". On that model I believe it is automatic and non adjustable. Sometimes it can be great, but other times it's a pain. I think the factory settings can be a little over the top. Not sure if there is a way to tone it down a little, you can call tech support and see if there is an internal control you can adjust. You can disable it completely by using the machine in TIG mode instead of stick. Just set it to lift arc and use the torch switch or put a brick on the pedal. Don't forget to turn off your gas bottle. I've done that to stick weld with a lot of TIG machines. If you want you can even use the pedal and HF starts, but that is not the best way to prepare for a test.
As to the 6010, I know that machine doesn't specifically have a 6010 setting or port for the correct voltage. Some people have no problems with it, others just can't make it run those rods worth a damn. You might want to try 6011 and see if that runs any better. Again not ideal for preparing for a test. Do you know what kind of machine you will be testing with? Inverters run a lot different than engine drives or transformers.
You might have someone watch the amp display while you are welding to see if it is changing, or set up a camera to video it. Then you will have a better idea of what is going on.
BTW: I think you meant GTAW (TIG) not GMAW (MIG)?
Last edited by Rambozo; 08-20-2016 at 11:27 PM.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!