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Thread: Power Pro 205s fine tuning

  1. #1
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    Default Power Pro 205s fine tuning

    Does anyone know of any really good videos on how to fine tune the Power Pro 205s. I have the AC tig settings fairly well tuned in but everytime I change over to Stick or DC tig, I have a learning curve getting back to normal. I use a Miller Dynasty 200dx at work and school and Everlast welder is just nothing like it. Can ya help a Brotha' out ?

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    That's a pretty basic power supply. Can you be more specific in what is giving you problems? Apart from the AC balance being reversed from the Miller, the controls are more or less the same. And for DC there is really nothing but the pulser to adjust, when using the foot pedal. If using the torch switch and sequencer, the controls operate pretty much the same as the Miller, just analog instead of digital. I could see the limited AC controls being an issue, but not DC or stick. Not having any memory, means you have to do the remembering. You can either keep notes of the settings you like, or even take a sharpie and mark the dials. I worked at a place once where one of the guys would just line up the red marks for steel, and the blue marks for aluminum. But the better option is to learn what each control does and how and why to adjust it. Then when something isn't working to your liking, you will know what to adjust to get it the way you want. There are some videos on weldingtipsandtricks.com that cover the controls on the Everlast 250EX and the Dynasty 200DX. Your machine's TIG controls are much like the 250EX.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  3. #3

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    Can you say which settings are giving you the most trouble? Or are you messing with more than the amperage when you go to stick or DC TIG?

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    First of all, In Tig mode, the digital amperage values fluctuate even before I weld. They bounce back and forth between two or three values. Yesterday I was trying to weld some 1/8" steel with stick and I couldn't keep it lit, when I turned up the amperage a little I blew through it ! Just weird little things like that. Trying to autogenously weld some SS on very low amperage seems difficult. I'm trying to dial in a pulse setting condusive to fine/light stainless and mild steel work. I'd appreciate any help, the manual is fairly vague on these matters. Thanks -J

  5. #5

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    If you are using pulse, it will do that. Depending upon which rod and arc force settings, you will do that, especially if you are trying to use 6010...which you can't with this unit. Have you downloaded the manual from online?

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    That's funny because I was using 6010. What should I use? 6011 , 6013? I did download the manual since I didn't get one with the machine. I'll be the first to admit that I hate technical reads.

  7. #7

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    7018 is a good place to start. 6011 will work better.

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    7018 has to be one of the easiest rods to run. If you get the machine set right, you can even get it to run itself.



    Or the firecracker method.

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC_9PETuc08
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

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    I certainly no expert but as far as getting a decent looking weld when first starting out, I agree that 7018 is very easy to use, followed by 7014 and then 6011. The better the rod quality, the better the results.

  10. Default

    Well, Tigfreak,

    I'm still new to aluminum TIG welding, and SS TIG welding too. But I was doing some thin walled SS tubing recently (.032), and was a little surprised that my arc was not as stable as usual down at around 25 amps. But I almost expected it to be that way, since I was lazily still using my typical 3/32" electrode. I then switched to a 1/16" electrode and things were good, except that my new auto-darkening lid seemed a little challenged by the low amperage.

    Peace,
    C. Livingstone

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    I picked up some 6011 and that problem is solved. Now I have issues withe the tig settings. I set it up the way Jody from Tricks and tips showed in a video and all it's doing is burning up tungstens in AC or DC I have ample gas flow but cannot establish a smooth arc just a flare up and good bye tungsten. When I first opened the box and set it up I was able to run a good bead in AC but, have not been able to since. The machine just hisses and buzzes. Pleas advise

  12. #12

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    If you'd read the manual online, you'd see that the machine operates differently than what Jody says. You are putting too much electrode positive. Try listening again to what he says. You are trying to set it for 70% electrode positive instead of 70% electrode negative.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigfreak View Post
    I picked up some 6011 and that problem is solved. Now I have issues withe the tig settings. I set it up the way Jody from Tricks and tips showed in a video and all it's doing is burning up tungstens in AC or DC I have ample gas flow but cannot establish a smooth arc just a flare up and good bye tungsten. When I first opened the box and set it up I was able to run a good bead in AC but, have not been able to since. The machine just hisses and buzzes. Pleas advise
    If you are burning up your tungsten in DC, double check that your torch is plugged into the negative, and your work clamp is in the positive. You probably left it in reverse from your stick welding tests.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

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    Actually, it operates exactly like Jody said, like I had it set, it was a bad torch. I changed the torch and it welded fine. Thanks

  15. #15

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    Probably you had the collet messed up or the hole in the torch head was covered.

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    It was neither of those. I changed the whole clunky stock set up out and the wp17 I had was old and was shorting out . I didn't notice until I actually tried a quick weld with an ungloved hand.

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