250 EX issues

[Skeeter]

To elaborate it a little further I am usung a ck torch,no switch,ssc pedal. Weld 1/8 steel. Wire wheeled and wiped down.Welder set as in photo. All was going well and stopped for a few minutes. Went at it again and amps seemed low. Looked at display with arc struck and it showed 46 amps. Was using foot pedal. I had to stop but went at it again a few days later and welder worked fine. Then stopped for a few and went back with no amps at all. Display did not change this time. Using about 7-1/2 lpm on argon. Checked all connectiions. Checked ground. Ground clamp was attached at wire wheeled spot on work. Seems like something intermittent. I want to insure points are right. I do not know where they are located or what the correct setting is. I know how to set points. I am using a Everlast cooler with RV coolant. Welds shown are test welds.

[Rambozo]

For TIG, you really need to grind off all that mill scale until you have bright metal. Wire wheeling won't usually remove it. That scale will plate your tungsten with a lot of contamination. The points are only for the HF start and won't have any change in welding amps or the display. The points gap is around .030". If you want to check them, call support for a walkthrough in how to access them. However, you can also switch to lift arc start and try that. If you are still having problems, it's not the points. I suspect that most of your issues is from that mill scale. It can act as an insulator both where you are welding and where the ground clamp is. Can't see where you have postflow, but make sure it is about 10 seconds or so. The rest of the green knobs can be set to minimum settings for use with the pedal.

[zoama]

I agree with Rambozo. Use a 40 or 60 grit flap wheel on an angle grinder to remove the mill scale or buy cold rolled steel which doesn't have mill scale. It's a little stronger and cost a little more but saves prep time when tig welding.

[Skeeter]

The piece shown is a crap scrap piece I was playing with. The grinder with the flap disk is actually sitting on the weld table. The work I am doing is 3/4 x3/4 square tubing 1/8 th wall. It is hit with a wire wheel and then a flap disk where the weld ing is done. Plus I wipe it down with acetone. I occasionally dip the tungsten but keep 4 or 5 handy to swap out as needed. 3/32 tungsten but can't remember type. It is the Type suggested here though so it is right. Sharpened on a dedicated grinder. I just did about 80 inches of welding the 3/4 square but that is ground down smooth afterwards before powdercoating. I just wanted to know how to check and what to set the points to if needed.