Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
As you figured out, there can't be a plating of crud on the tip of your tungsten. Also, you typically need less than a second of preflow, so that will help as the arc will start just after you hit the pedal or switch, and not come as a surprise, 6 seconds later. You may need to raise your postflow a little depending on how much current you are using. You want the postflow to last as long as your tungsten is red hot and a little bit more. Otherwise it will pick up some contamination from the air as it cools and can also cause hard starting. When using the torch switch, it sometimes helps to prop the cup on the workpiece, so you can precisely hold the proper arc gap, then hit the switch. That way pressing the switch doesn't cause you to move the torch. Be sure you have a good place to prop your torch hand, too. One of the big keys to good TIG welding is precise torch control.
Agree post flow could be increased as the metal is still glowing a bit after 6 seconds during practice. The torch switch and I just won't play well together dexterity wise, I'd rather have that switch mounted to my table in 4T mode so I can operate it with my filler metal hand or just use the foot pedal.

Agree you really need a steady hand controlling the torch, I have a BuildPro table so that gives me endless opportunities for fixturing something to rest/slide my hand against. I was using the edge of the table after switching to the foot pedal, it worked great. I have to say both my buddy and I were amazed how nice a weld a couple TIG noobs could put down after just a short bit of practice. I invested weeks of practice into my Lincoln 210MP MIG, just hours and hours and was never able to run a bead like I did with the 255ext within an hour. The machine is quiet, the welding is quiet, nice smooth stable arc, no spatter, no mess, easy to control. I felt the MIG was a grip it and rip it machine, the TIG is a lot slower allowing me more control. Super happy at this point.