Need advice. Striking an Arc. PowerArc200

[Kansan]

First of all i should say, I love this machine. Once im up and running and dialed in this little machine makes the most amazing sizzles sounds ever, smooth as silk. Has made me on occasion look like a much better welder than I actually am.

On to my question / problem. I have a lot of problems getting the arc started. I've tried tapping and scratching, both techniques give about the same frustrating results: sticking! I generally use 7018 1/8" Rod.

Most of the welding I do is generally related to repair of skid steer attatchments.

I clean and prep my weld area usually with wire wheel. Same with ground, i wire wheel to a clean surface. I tend to weld a little hotter than I should, as this machine generally amazes me with the power it has to spare. I also try and clean the ground clamp reasonably close to where I am welding.

Would swapping to something other than 7018 help me out? I've got 7014 and 6011 on hand, but i generally default to 7018 since it can consistantly deliver beautiful looking welds. Would larger cables help me out somehow? Any sort of suggestions appreciated.

[Rambozo]

What amperage are you using? Hard starting can be a sign of too low a setting, but you say you are on the hot side. 7018s can be hard to restart, but it sounds like you are even having trouble with new rods. For restarts, take some course sandpaper or a file to the end of the rod, works wonders. It does take practice. That machine has auto hot start, so there is nothing to adjust there. You might try striking like a match, a scratch then pull back slightly at the end of the strike. Do not long arc it, or the machine will cut out to protect itself.
When in doubt, turn up the power.

[GWD]

Depending on the brand of rod, 1/8" 7018 can take up to 140A to start and run reliably.

Re-starts with 7018 could be a problem anytime, even with a relatively clean tip. But first starts should not be an issue.

A wire wheel may seem like it should work great, but it really doesn't work as well as a grinder and bright metal. Try grinding a small spot for the ground (work) and for the rod to start. Test it first on scrap but I'd bet it makes a difference.

Let us know how it all works out.

[performance]

Are you running DCEP and how many amps?

[Kansan]

Are you running DCEP and how many amps?

Yes, DC electrode positive around 70-80 amps on 1/8" Rod.

140 amps on that machine and it better be 3/8's" steel or thicker lol. Maybe i really am welding too cold to start with, but the welds look decent like they are flowing in good. I might start it hotter then dial it back once im rolling. I will also try a grinding wheel instead of wire wheel.

I know 7018 prefers clean, but I've never had this much trouble touching off an arc on any machine. sometimes its tap tap tap for 30 seconds before I get any hint of a spark. Seems like scratch start is worse. I probably should check the stinger and ground connection themselves.

[performance]

That amperage would be ok (but not great) for 6010, or 6011, but not for 7018. That would be ideal for 3/32" 7018, but you need a good 90 amps to get the rod working right with the 1/8" rod.

Is the slag peeling right up after the weld? If it isn't the amps aren't right. I'd suggest you drop down to 3/32" and see how it works with 7018 if you aren't welding something that would support the rod size and amps required to burn it.

The reason it is continuing to burn once started is the action of the arc force control. I would expect the amps are boosting themselves anyway up to a sustainable level.

[GWD]

Yes, DC electrode positive around 70-80 amps on 1/8" Rod.

140 amps on that machine and it better be 3/8's" steel or thicker lol. Maybe i really am welding too cold to start with, but the welds look decent like they are flowing in good. I might start it hotter then dial it back once im rolling. I will also try a grinding wheel instead of wire wheel.

I know 7018 prefers clean, but I've never had this much trouble touching off an arc on any machine. sometimes its tap tap tap for 30 seconds before I get any hint of a spark. Seems like scratch start is worse. I probably should check the stinger and ground connection themselves.

As already discussed, 70-80A will barely get a spark. You may be laying metal on metal with very little penetration at that level. Sure, it looks good but it is not really a "weld".

Your idea to start hotter (MUCH hotter) and then dial back is definitely worth a try.

[DaveO]

If it's helpful, Jody C's video from last week is specifically about practicing with 7018 electrodes.
http://welding-tv.com/2015/01/27/701...at-horizontal/

As others have suggested, note in the video that he is running at 135 amps on an inverter machine, and gives advice about restarts. (He also talks about hot start and arc dig features, consistent rod angle, keeping a short arc... his usual pantload of knowledge.)

As a *general* rule of thumb, you can set amps to match the electrode: 1 amp per .001", and adjust as needed from there. As Mark wrote, when amps are set correctly for 7018 the slag peels off... also as noted in Jody's video. Good luck with it!

[Grafted]

Yes, DC electrode positive around 70-80 amps on 1/8" Rod.

140 amps on that machine and it better be 3/8's" steel or thicker lol. Maybe i really am welding too cold to start with, but the welds look decent like they are flowing in good. I might start it hotter then dial it back once im rolling. I will also try a grinding wheel instead of wire wheel.

I know 7018 prefers clean, but I've never had this much trouble touching off an arc on any machine. sometimes its tap tap tap for 30 seconds before I get any hint of a spark. Seems like scratch start is worse. I probably should check the stinger and ground connection themselves.

I have a powerarc 200 , I use 70-85 for 3/32 rods and a Min of 90 amps on 1/8 7018. I think you are a little cold.
I am using 7018 Lincoln e rods.

Tom