Power Pro 256 stuck at 240+ AMPS

[Blaster]

Yea,,, I don't like that 666 stuff at ALL....

My 256 did some really weird stuff when the Pedal Connector, on the machine, was not tight. It Maxed-Out as soon as the switch was tripped and acted like I didn't have a pedal connected. Tightening the connector ring and it went back to normal.

[everlastsupport]

There is an 8 pin chip there that can go, but was rare it blew. But check the two signal diodes above the 4053. You have a socket in there so should be a quick thing to test.

[acannell]

There is an 8 pin chip there that can go, but was rare it blew. But check the two signal diodes above the 4053. You have a socket in there so should be a quick thing to test.

Okay will do. The 4053's should be here Mon or Tue at latest so I'll do everything at once.

[acannell]

Okay will do. The 4053's should be here Mon or Tue at latest so I'll do everything at once.

The 4053 chips came in today. I replaced it and powered it up. Now the display appears to show the correct current as I move the knob around!

However, I tried welding and vaporized a 1/16" electrode with the amps set to 119A and the pedal pushed down maybe 20%

So I guess that just fixed the display. The display still works after vaporizing the tungsten, so thats good.

Perhaps that 8 pin guy died? The LM358? I may actually have one somewhere...

And I'll check the diodes too.

Any other ideas?

[acannell]

The 4053 chips came in today. I replaced it and powered it up. Now the display appears to show the correct current as I move the knob around!

However, I tried welding and vaporized a 1/16" electrode with the amps set to 119A and the pedal pushed down maybe 20%

So I guess that just fixed the display. The display still works after vaporizing the tungsten, so thats good.

Perhaps that 8 pin guy died? The LM358? I may actually have one somewhere...

And I'll check the diodes too.

Any other ideas?

okay I spoke to soon..

when I was troubleshooting the welder last week I must have left the AC balance knob at 80%..thats what melted the electrode right now I think

so I turned it down to 10-20%, replaced the electrode, and was able to make a good bead on 1/16" aluminum ... yay!

but right after that, I couldnt get an arc started. It just stays in HF making the long thin sparks. I tried it for about 5 minutes (not continuously, maybe 5 seconds at a time) and only once was able to get an arc started. I replaced the collet and used a fresh electrode, no change. I brushed the already very clean aluminum, no change.

This is a problem I've been having for awhile, right up until when the 4053 blew last week. Sometimes I just cant get an arc and then I spend more time in HF, which I think blew the 4053.

Is there a known thing to look at for "hard to start arc"?

[acannell]

okay I spoke to soon..

when I was troubleshooting the welder last week I must have left the AC balance knob at 80%..thats what melted the electrode right now I think

so I turned it down to 10-20%, replaced the electrode, and was able to make a good bead on 1/16" aluminum ... yay!

but right after that, I couldnt get an arc started. It just stays in HF making the long thin sparks. I tried it for about 5 minutes (not continuously, maybe 5 seconds at a time) and only once was able to get an arc started. I replaced the collet and used a fresh electrode, no change. I brushed the already very clean aluminum, no change.

This is a problem I've been having for awhile, right up until when the 4053 blew last week. Sometimes I just cant get an arc and then I spend more time in HF, which I think blew the 4053.

Is there a known thing to look at for "hard to start arc"?

okay it looks like one of the things that can case hard to start arc issues are points

looks like my welder has the "old style"...very small little deals

its tricky to measure the gap because theres not much room in there but it would appear to be around 20 thou...is that too small?

should I try to clean them or something?

[everlastsupport]

okay it looks like one of the things that can case hard to start arc issues are points

looks like my welder has the "old style"...very small little deals

its tricky to measure the gap because theres not much room in there but it would appear to be around 20 thou...is that too small?

should I try to clean them or something?

Try .025-.035 range. I used to have people that had no tools get a credit card loose enough to slide in and out. Let them discharge before each test too, especially if you have a metal gauge.

Some machines liked them tighter, some looser. I always figured the humidity or something, but it would make a difference.