My next project

[Rambozo]

True, it can get expensive with shipping for small items like that, but the time and effort spent in fabricating a bracket can exceed the value of the ones online.

For something like an 88 Celebrity it wouldn't take much to exceed the value of the vehicle, either.

You can make an offer...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331348107193

[DaveO]

Any dismantling yards aka junkyards nearby, that might have a used part? Or is the deal already done.

[everlastsupport]

Any dismantling yards aka junkyards nearby, that might have a used part? Or is the deal already done.

That was my thought, junkyard. Ram was funny, might exceed the value of the car..

But anyway, he can make a bracket, more fun that way.

[Elantramax1]

It just keeps getting Better. The Dealer has the car. The Problem is not their work. But work that was done about 1 1/2 years ago. She had the Gas Tank replaced. The "Mechanic" used Rubber Hose instead of the Steel Lines that come out of the tank to the Filter, Return lines. They need to pull the Tank down and see how much damage. I May be able to get a replacement assembly. And try to Avoid their price.

Here comes the BAD news. She just informed me that, The Bank is Foreclosing on her house. And that it's being put up for sale on Dec 4 2014.

[Rambozo]

Sounds like that car needs a can of gas and a match. Or like they used to say at my old shop, jack up the radiator cap and install a new car under it.

[Elantramax1]

Went there today after work. The problem is the "Mechanic" cut the steel fuel lines. And used rubber hose and clamps.

[Rambozo]

Went there today after work. The problem is the "Mechanic" cut the steel fuel lines. And used rubber hose and clamps.

While not OEM, that will not cause any problems and is used on millions of cars. If the dealer is telling you that the hose is the only problem, unless it's not proper fuel hose, or is kinked, they are feeding you a line. Now it may be that hose was used to adapt the wrong fuel pump, and that conceivably can cause issues, but swapping steel line for rubber hose in and of itself is not a problem.

For a car like that, I don't think going to a dealer is a good plan anyway. It's not like you are doing a restoration, you just need it to run semi reliably. I'm sure a service writer would have no problem finding at least $5,000 - $10,000 or more, worth of work an old car like that could use to be brought up to scratch. What you need is an independent shop that understands that you just need to keep it going without spending more than the car is worth.

[Elantramax1]

This car has turned into a Nightmare for me. I Fixed the Ignition problem. Couple of nights later I noticed she had a Backup lamp out. Bought new bulbs. Changed the one. Then found out she also had a brake lamp out. Used the other bulb for that. At least they were both 2057. Fixed the bulbs. Next day she tells me the Brake Lamps are stuck on. Call Advance and order a new Brake Lamp switch. Arrived next day. Went to her house after work to remove the old one. To match it. Battery is dead. Big surprise. Left the charger on it. Ran to the store. 15 minutes later with part in hand I finally fixed it. Had it up and running for her to use that night. Hopefully I wont have to fix anything for awhile.

A Good tool I have been relying on is a Makita 9.6V Right Angle Impact Driver. Bought it from Makita as a Refurbished unit roughly 17 years ago. Made quick work on the Ignition Coil screws. And the Dash screws. Saved me ALOT of time.

[Elantramax1]

Well. Not good. She got the car back Friday night. Saturday night it starts Stalling and Not Starting. Thinking Maybe an Ignition Module. She's going to call the dealer this morning to see what they will do??

On a Hind thought, I Probably should have welded the plate to the rail. Left it loose to paint.

[Elantramax1]

Replaced the Coils and Module today. Seems to be running fine now. She took it on a roughly 15 mile trip to the storage unit. And it didn't cut out,

[Elantramax1]

Rambozo, I did something between what you suggested and what I wanted to do. What I did was, Cut the 1/8" bar to fit underneath the Support Bar. Welded a short piece underneath at a slight angle. Drilled holes. The picture is the underside of the unit. Haven't test fitted it yet. I drilled slots in the ends just in case. And where the Bottle is mounted, I gave myself an extra inch. If I need to slide the bottle forward more to fit over the wheel well hump.

[Elantramax1]

Yeah!!!! Replacement Arrived today. Took it to AZ and tested it myself. The IM Passed. Checked the Coils. Secondary Towers, 5600 Ohms. Passed. Now if the Weather will Cooperate tomorrow I can finally get one thorn out of my side.