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Thread: Argon Tank price?

  1. #1
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    Default Argon Tank price?

    Hi all. Went to the local Welder Supply in Trenton. Asked about the price for a Argon/C25 tank. I have a couple of options.

    1: 40 CFH costs $180- Order item. Not sure of an arrival date as he needs a "Minimum" order

    2: 60 CFH costs $200- In Stock

    Fill charge for either is $35. And he can fill a new tank that I supply. Provided it has the DOT label.

    What do you think?

    Thanks
    Elantramax1

  2. #2

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    I think the last 330 CFH tank I bought cost me around $300.00 for a full customer owned bottle. Had one re-filled last week and it cost me $55.00 here.
    Gerald

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  3. #3

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    I think it's a rip off. I get a 330 filled for about 60 bucks. As far as cylinders go, most areas of the country will not sell anything more than a 125. Either buy a 125 or rent/lease rather a full size one...for 60.00 a year or so.

  4. #4

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    FWIW, a 60 is good for less than a day's worth of welding. If you started at 8 am, by 11:30, you'd need to be taking an early lunch to go it filled...then it's likely they will have to send it out for refill which can take several days to a couple weeks...Either buy two or three small ones so you will always have one waiting on you or just lease it and swap it out when you get there and walk out with a fresh fill. Don't forget on customer owned, you have to periodically pay to have them inspected. Plus a lease is tax deductible.

  5. Default

    I took a 330 tank back to airgas earlier this year. They sent me a renewal for the 5 year lease. It was for $380 . I told them no thanks and they could keep their tank. I bought 125 cf tank from the other lws in town and I have not been back to airgas since.
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  6. #6

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    I paid $295 for a 99 year lease on a 390cf C25, with free renewal when the lease is up.
    It came filled at no extra charge an cost $60 to exchange for a full one when empty.
    There's another welding supply store just 1/4 mile away from there where the prices are waaay higher and the guy behind the counter acts like an ###... Shop around.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  7. #7
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    I got to look around for another shop. I only know of two. One here in Trenton, Another in Mt Holly. 20 Miles away.

  8. #8
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    I managed to Snag a 60 filled for $60 Cash and Carry. Question. Should I use Teflon Tape on the Threads of the supplied (I Mig 140E) Flow Meter?

  9. #9

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    No. These are compression fittings. But do use a crescent wrench to hold the base while tightening the nut with a 19mm/3/4" wrench.

  10. #10
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    The Fitting on the Flow Meter is 1 1/16". Didn't check the size on the Tank.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    The Fitting on the Flow Meter is 1 1/16". Didn't check the size on the Tank.
    For most argon and C25 you should have a CGA 580 valve. That is 15/16" thread with a tapered sealing surface. Never use Teflon tape on a tapered fitting. First point the opening away from you and crack the valve, just a little, for split second, to blow any dirt or other debris out of the valve. Make sure the flow meter fitting is clean also. Then run the flow meter into the valve finger tight. It should screw in very easy, if you hold the flow meter aligned straight. Next just snug it up with a wrench, keeping the ball tube vertical. It doesn't take a lot of force, so don't go nuts. Open the valve a little and check for leaks, if there is a micro leak, tighten it up just a little more. If a major leak, take it back apart to find out why. When in use, open the tank valve all the way until it seats open. There can be some leaking around the stem in any but the full open and full closed positions. Be sure to close the tank when you are not welding. Also be sure to strap the cylinder to make sure it can't fall over!

    BTW: Compressed Gas Association
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  12. #12
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    Thanks. I was looking at the Threads last night. And wasn't 100% sure about the Teflon Tape. I've used in on Air Compressor, Power Steering fittings to seal the threads. They're Brass. So I wasn't planning on going Super tight. I am going to stop at Sears or HD and get a couple of wrenches to keep with my welding stuff. In the event of a problem, I wont have to run upstairs and to the garage. Not sure if I want to Trust the HFT. The Openings might not be machined correctly.

  13. #13
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    Hooked up my gas tank. Had to put some Teflon tape on the output side threads. As it had a slight leak. And I didn't want to crank it down. The Nozzle stays cleaner now.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elantramax1 View Post
    Hooked up my gas tank. Had to put some Teflon tape on the output side threads. As it had a slight leak. And I didn't want to crank it down. The Nozzle stays cleaner now.
    Did you switch the polarity back ?
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  15. #15
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    Torch Positive, Clamp Negative

  16. #16
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    Wow!! You all weren't kidding about the size of a Tank. I am Almost done welding my cart. Just need to weld plates to the bottom for the Casters. And the 60Cf tank is around 500-600 PSI. Started with 2000. I am thinking about using my FC to "Plug Weld" the 1/8" Plates to the bottom of the 1" square tubing. And save the gas for when I plug weld the bottom shelf on. Doing that one last. Figure it would be easier to attach the plates.

  17. #17
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    There are a few things you can do to help conserve gas. As you get more experience, you will find it goes a lot farther, too.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    There are a few things you can do to help conserve gas. As you get more experience, you will find it goes a lot farther, too.
    The I Mig 140E has a "Post Flow" timer.

    What do you think of my idea of using the FC? Use it to Plug Weld the 1/8" Steel plates to the 1/16" Thick tubing. I left the bottom shelf off so I can weld a seam on the sides of the tubing.

  19. #19
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    As I mentioned elsewhere, I have become a big fan of stem type casters for tubular constructed items. Either with the push in style holders, or threaded stem and weld in a nut or drill a hole. And while I'll probably get some static about hatchetwork, I have all but stopped welding on plates to mount casters, and instead just weld the caster flange right to the object. Especially for shop type items. I just about never need to change a caster, if I picked the right kind to start with, and if needed I can always just cut them off and weld on new ones. It doesn't take much to keep them in place, and no fasteners to shake loose over time.

    As to gas saving, using just enough gas for the type of weld, minimal post flow, a short, small rigid hose between the bottle and the machine, and learning to plan welds, so you make a contiguous beads, and avoid lots of starts and stops, all contribute so getting the most from a bottle. Early on you will go through a lot more gas but as you get better that will change.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  20. #20
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    Just welded 2, 3" Wide, 1/8" thick pieces together. To make the base for the Tank. The I Mig 140 did a decent job. Turned it two notches below full power. And the wire almost penetrated the entire piece. Just ran a small bead on the top side and sanded it. Looks decent. Maybe I'll take a hammer to it to test it. What I am doins is to, Weld the 1/8" Plate underneath the square tubing. And mount the casters to it. This way the weight of the Tank will be on the wheels. And some of the weight of the car as well. And I cut a pair of 6" pieces to mount the front swivel casters. Again underneath the tubing.

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