Just put a cross brace for your bottle to sit on. Then just add the screen over it for looks.
Just put a cross brace for your bottle to sit on. Then just add the screen over it for looks.
Gerald
Millermatic 251
Spectrum 300 Plasma
Everlast PowerTig 250EX
Everlast PowerCool W300
Harris / Victor OA
Craftsman 13 Speed Drill Press
ProTools Air/Hydraulic Bender
48" Brake, 72" Brake, 52" Stomp Shear
Mitler Bros. 36" High Throat Bead Roller
Compressor, Notchers, Grinders, etc.
There are both good and bad points to that material. It's nice that the shelves don't catch crud and give plenty of cooling ventilation. However, you can't set things like contact tips or other small items on them. Also depending on foot placement and size, on some equipment a foot will fall through the openings, so it will rock around and not be stable. Of course sometimes all the feet will line up and fall through so the item will be really locked in, something you just have to play around with. Some material has punched holes and is pretty much smooth and flat, while others are expanded metal, so there are slits cut, then the metal is pulled open. That ends up real strong, and great traction, but it can be a little rough, and is an uneven surface. It's all up to what you want. The bottle shelf doesn't need to be thick as long as it is attached all the way around. It's a great place for a grate. If using chains, it's good to keep the bottle from moving around at the bottom. Keeps it sliding out and or hitting the wheels. Depending on size, an easy way to get that, is to put your bottle shelf under the frame, so the bottle fits inside the frame. I prefer ratchet straps instead of chains anymore, so nothing moves around anyway. There are as many cart designs as there are people that make them. Just use what makes sense for your situation. I made one cart with just two rolled rings welded on so you just dropped the bottle in the rings, and no attachment was needed. Super secure and easy to swap bottles. That limited me to one bottle size, but I wanted that cart to roll under a bench, so I always used a small bottle on it anyway.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
HD lied. It is actually 18 gauge. Too thin for what I need. I'm going to return it. I may just use my original idea of 16 Gauge shelves. Solid pieces
You're welcome, Chris! I hope I was useful.
Thanks again Matt!! I see I have a bit more to learn. Guess I know what I am doing next weekend.
I am thinking that when I make the Top, I should use a Third bar. In the middle to help support the weight of the welder. I have enough scrap to make one more. What do you think?
Thanks
Elantramax1
Last edited by Elantramax1; 10-06-2014 at 11:03 PM.
I started welding on the Middle Shelf. Figured it would be easier to do this now. Tried doing a Spot Weld. I had the Blue spots on the backside of the Shelf. But not in the Tubing underneath. Just doing a Filet on the outside. Maybe on the inside as well when I am done.
That's what I meant. Problem was it wasn't going through the sheet metal. Even with the Volts all the way up.
To do a rosette weld, you have to start with a hole in the sheetmetal, drilled, punched, plasma cut, etc. Everlast has a pretty good example in one of their trailer hitch videos as I recall.
To do a spot weld or resistance weld, you typically use two contact electrodes and a different type of power supply.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Thanks. At least I get to practice some beads. The Self was slightly larger than the frame. Grinder will fix that.
All you needed was a few tack welds on that self to hold it in place.
Gerald
Millermatic 251
Spectrum 300 Plasma
Everlast PowerTig 250EX
Everlast PowerCool W300
Harris / Victor OA
Craftsman 13 Speed Drill Press
ProTools Air/Hydraulic Bender
48" Brake, 72" Brake, 52" Stomp Shear
Mitler Bros. 36" High Throat Bead Roller
Compressor, Notchers, Grinders, etc.
It doesn't rattle. Today I added an additional support bar to the top shelf. Once I put the 16 gauge sheet metal on, Should be plenty strong for the weight of the welder. Even with the 8" Roll.
The Rosette Weld. What size hole should I drill in the sheet metal? 1/8"?
Thanks
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
The good thing about steel is that you can put more on and grind it down flush... if that makes you happy. Some people will say things like "only cats cover up their crap" but snobbish comments don't bother me, I'm not working for them.
If you're looking for a good flap wheel, these are what I use http://www.cometsupply.com/mp/PFERD/pm/PFE60626/ They cut very fast and last a long time. The difference between PFERD and the cheap ones is like night and day.
Links to my welding projects > : Spray Arc with the 250p : Coldsaw Stand : Welding Cart : Heavy Duty Rolling Shelf : Taller Bandsaw
2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw
Just welded together two 3" wide pieces of 1/8" flat steel. Blasted the one side so hot, It warped the table a little. Flipped it over. Welded the other side. Polished the one side down. Today I was curious as to how well the weld is. Laid it across two pieces of plywood. And stood on it. The 1/8" plate bowed under my 140 Lbs. But the welds seem to hold.
Right now. I finished welding the cart. Sanded it down. Note: Don't buy HF brand Sand Paper. Garbage doesn't last. Even with hand use. And I use the one listed for Metal. Sprayed a coating of Rustoleum Primer on the top and sides. Waiting for it to dry before I spray underneath. Haven't decided on a color. Maybe a Medium Gray?