Flux Core?

[Rambozo]

Cant really see the puddle.

You need to correct that. You might need to try a different shade depending on your vision. The usual starting point for what you are doing is #10, but you might do better with a #9 or #11. Also with flux core or stick welding, you will periodically need to clean or replace your cover glass, as it gets covered with smoke debris and spatter.

[performance]

Start by leaning over in front of the direction of travel while keeping the torch in place and looking at the front of the puddle as you weld. That may seem strange but is a standard part of welding.

[Elantramax1]

I should be leaning over the tip? I've been doing an off to the side from behind the torch.

[performance]

The puddle isn't behind the torch, it's in front.

[Elantramax1]

I have a Hobart Impact series. Set on #9. And I do clean the outer lenses afterwards.

Stick out I was always told was about 3/8" Which is hard to do on an inside joint. I am going to check my Contact Tip for wear. Not sure how many feet before they need replacement.

I saw a 20 CF tank at Tractor Supply. It may be big enough for what I do??

[Elantramax1]

Where I am working, The lighting could be a bit better. The lights are a few feet away. So I don't get the direct light. Just the side of a T12 Fl. tube. They sell lights that attach to the torch. Wonder if that would help

[The_Beave]

A good, old fashioned 500W halogen work lamp is your best friend for lighting, if you don't have an auto-darkening shield. It isn't going to help you much during welding, though. The light from nearly any arc welding is several times greater than that of most any lighting source for use in close proximity to humans, so it "drowns out" the ambient light once the arc starts.

[everlastsupport]

Metal flexible halogen desk lamps work well. Do not use plastic ones for the obvious reason (I'm melting....).