Quote Originally Posted by Blaster View Post
I think it's all about the solder....

I learned about soldering from HeathKit stuff (like the Large 27" color console TV ) and they always supplied the solder. When I used anything else it never worked as well. That's why I specified Kester 66 (thin, like .040). Also I specified "scratching". I learned this from getting solder to stick to steel. I found out about Tinning Fluid and how, on bare steel, you use a steel brush and a torch to get the liquid solder to adhere.

On batteries I don't use tinning fluid, just the good Kester, then take the flattest side of the iron and "work" in on the steel ends by Scratching with the iron with some downforce. It works!
Sounds like both of us have been around for a while. I always use a decent electrical solder. One of my first major projects was a LNW80 expansion interface for the TRS-80 model I. Still have it packed up in the garage. I was one of the guy on the internet before there was one. Old BBS systems.

Back to the topic, sounds like a neat idea to use the solder wick. I have used stranded wire before but it left the batteries a little taller and they did not fit into the pack as well.

I do have most of the stuff to try the spot welding so I will give it a try when I get the chance.