Spot welding question.

[Brian Ski]

Tin all the ends first quickly (40w iron, "scratching" and that really thin Kester flux core). This is the most heat the cell sees and I don't think it's enough to make any difference....

Maybe I have had older batteries. I have been soldering for decades, but I could not get a good connection to the battery with solder. Maybe need to rough the surface or maybe the nicads I was using had stainless ends. Sometimes it would hit right off, other times a lot of heat and no solder flow.

Every try the lithium quarter batteries???

[Blaster]

Maybe I have had older batteries. I have been soldering for decades, but I could not get a good connection to the battery with solder. Maybe need to rough the surface or maybe the nicads I was using had stainless ends. Sometimes it would hit right off, other times a lot of heat and no solder flow.

Every try the lithium quarter batteries???

I think it's all about the solder....

I learned about soldering from HeathKit stuff (like the Large 27" color console TV ) and they always supplied the solder. When I used anything else it never worked as well. That's why I specified Kester 66 (thin, like .040). Also I specified "scratching". I learned this from getting solder to stick to steel. I found out about Tinning Fluid and how, on bare steel, you use a steel brush and a torch to get the liquid solder to adhere.

On batteries I don't use tinning fluid, just the good Kester, then take the flattest side of the iron and "work" in on the steel ends by Scratching with the iron with some downforce. It works!

And yes, those button batteries, the 3032's for memory back-up in many electronic boards, I put leads on them too

[Brian Ski]

I think it's all about the solder....

I learned about soldering from HeathKit stuff (like the Large 27" color console TV ) and they always supplied the solder. When I used anything else it never worked as well. That's why I specified Kester 66 (thin, like .040). Also I specified "scratching". I learned this from getting solder to stick to steel. I found out about Tinning Fluid and how, on bare steel, you use a steel brush and a torch to get the liquid solder to adhere.

On batteries I don't use tinning fluid, just the good Kester, then take the flattest side of the iron and "work" in on the steel ends by Scratching with the iron with some downforce. It works!

Sounds like both of us have been around for a while. I always use a decent electrical solder. One of my first major projects was a LNW80 expansion interface for the TRS-80 model I. Still have it packed up in the garage. I was one of the guy on the internet before there was one. Old BBS systems.

Back to the topic, sounds like a neat idea to use the solder wick. I have used stranded wire before but it left the batteries a little taller and they did not fit into the pack as well.

I do have most of the stuff to try the spot welding so I will give it a try when I get the chance.

[Blaster]

Sounds like both of us have been around for a while. I always use a decent electrical solder. One of my first major projects was a LNW80 expansion interface for the TRS-80 model I. Still have it packed up in the garage. I was one of the guy on the internet before there was one. Old BBS systems.

So, was that the little cigarette pack size box on the ribbon cable, between the CPU & Keyboard, that doubled the RAM by adding another 2K

Compuserve, TheSource, I was there too ...

My buddies and I broke Apple][ sw and traded it all over the place, calling ourselves "Mr.Xerox"

[zoama]

I had a TRS-80 16k extended basic.

[everlastsupport]

I recall piggy-backing RAM and soldering a wire to an address line on all the chips to gain some more memory on my Model I. Also, the first BBS I wrote for my Model I, I recall buzzing a relay when someone wanted to chat since it had no sound, just a cassette to backup programs. And all on floppy disc.

Had a tymnet engine also when I worked for the GOV, was on the internet before it was the internet as well.