Mike R.
Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
www.everlastgenerators.com
www.everlastwelders.com
877-755-9353 x203
M-F 12 - 7PM PST
FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.
Also frequency is way low. Need about 100-120. Hot start doesn't have anything to do with it either.
Mark
performance@everlastwelders.com
www.everlastgenerators.com
www.everlastwelders.com
877-755-9353 x204
M-F 9am - 5pm EST
In the future, when you get the machine all dialed in for a task you do frequently, you might want to make a habit of saving those settings to one of the memory slots.
That is one of the main advantages to the digital machines. Of course with the analog machines, you can always just snap a single photo of all the knob settings, where on the digitals, you would have to step through and write them down or record them. You are a little unclear in the wording of your settings, and are missing some. Is the frequency, the AC frequency or the pulse frequency? I suspect the later. That material is thick enough that you can probably shut off the pulser, at least to begin with. That will give you less to adjust and make it much easier to see the effects of your adjustments. Are you using the pedal or torch switch?
The manual should tell you which settings are for TIG and which for stick, but here are the basics for TIG:
Start amps, End amps, Upslope, Downslope, Preflow, Postflow, AC frequency, AC balance, 2T/4T, Pedal/Torch, Argon cfh, with pulse add these, Pulse amps, Background amps, Pulse frequency, Pulse on time (duty cycle). Some of these might be named a little different depending on the machine.
Last edited by Rambozo; 08-03-2014 at 07:52 PM.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Mark
performance@everlastwelders.com
www.everlastgenerators.com
www.everlastwelders.com
877-755-9353 x204
M-F 9am - 5pm EST
ok I think I got it back up running well. Changes in my settings I'm also using 3/32 5356 filler
im also pulsing 2T
2% lanthinated
100 amps
15cfh 100% argon
1 sec pre flow
7 sec post flow
5 pulse amps
1 hot time
65% arc force
100 frequency
+5 cleaning balance
advanced square
0 up slope
0 down slope
100 Start amps
all the weld runs that are in the picture are from me adjusting all the settings. I found a happy medium. to get a brighter weld I was trying to use more cleaning action but maybe its the filler I'm using. I was going to try 4043 next
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Arc force and hot start time have no effect in the TIG mode. Those settings are for stick only. You can back off the cleaning, quite a bit. That is what leaves the frosty band around your welds. The trick is to set it to just clean the area where the weld is, and not go out much farther. It doesn't look like you are using a pedal, so adding some downslope time will help you to eliminate the crater at the end of your welds. Those craters are where cracks start. One thing you should do is to clean your aluminum before welding. That will make your welds a lot more shiny. Give it a once over with a stainless wire brush and a quick wipe with acetone. While the cleaning action of the welder can break up oxides to let the aluminum flow to the top, it doesn't actually remove impurities. Those will all float to the surface of the puddle and leave residue. Good TIG welding is all about prep.
Welding tips and tricks has a whole series on what all the different TIG settings do. You might want to go check that out.
Last edited by Rambozo; 08-04-2014 at 12:31 PM.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
You don't need 100 start amps. In fact your tungsten would last longer and stay sharper if you ease it down to 20-30.
Mark
performance@everlastwelders.com
www.everlastgenerators.com
www.everlastwelders.com
877-755-9353 x204
M-F 9am - 5pm EST