Foot Pedal issue. PowerTig 200DX analog

[Rambozo]

You might want to open up the pedal. There is a belt that does the amperage adjustment, and maybe yours broke or slipped off the pulley. There are a few threads around here about testing the pedals and the pinouts for them.

[Challenger]

You might want to open up the pedal. There is a belt that does the amperage adjustment, and maybe yours broke or slipped off the pulley. There are a few threads around here about testing the pedals and the pinouts for them.

Well I can see through the port where the rubber track comes out of that it is still on the "gear". I dont really feel like opening it up until i get some kind of an approval that it wont void the warranty.

[Blaster]

Opening the pedal isn't ever going to void anything,,,, In Fact, it's such a poor device you'll be needing to "go in" often

They ended-up using a mis-match gear & belt (one is like 6T/in the other 5). It works, but only barely... Added to that the belt material belongs on a vacuum cleaner drive roller so it's WAY Too thick when it doesn't have to be for the load of a potentiometer. This means it' isn't as flexible as is should be.

I've drawn lines on the gear & belt to quickly determine when it's jumper again (I'm seriously considering putting a plastic window in the bottom of the pedal so I can check it each time I start welding).

There are posts about rounding the teeth on both the drive & belt, I done this and it's an improvement but no fix.

We should ALL be sent the proper belt and put an end to all this bother. It's Not our mistake!

[performance]

Foot pedals have a 6 month warranty. We have a new style out and also have the US built SSC controls pedal available. You might want to consider one of those.

[Blaster]

Nice attitude....

To save the cost of a supplying the proper $3.00 belt, Everlasts official position is "You've had your 6 months, you should consider buying a new one" - really????

Somewhere I know there exists the proper belt for the pedal. Maybe, with their vast resources, Everlast could point us in the right direction at least...

[performance]

The foot pedal was designed to be replaced as a whole unit, just like other brands. It doesn't have anything to do with attitude. We have no other alternative or individual parts available for that pedal. This pedal is made by the factory, and the parts are the parts they put together for it. Most users had no issues with this unit. If the unit was defective, it was replaced in its entirety. If it was out of warranty, then we'd offer an economical replacement.

You have your opinion of course, but the "package" that comes with the welder is a courtesy package, and is provided as a easy way to get started. It is expected that most customers will build and improve upon the package as they get more into it. These are basic, inexpensive items that are included for "free" to the unit.

[Blaster]

Mark, your forte is not Customer Service. You should really stick to what you're good at ~ the Technical aspects of welding/welders.

You're just making things worse, as you often do in these matters, by implying that Everlast is doing us a Favor by supplying a "courtesy package" of junk accessories and we have no real right to expect them to work properly

Let Oleg handle replies that require people skills....

[Challenger]

Foot pedals have a 6 month warranty. We have a new style out and also have the US built SSC controls pedal available. You might want to consider one of those.

So Im given no advice from Everlast besides buying another product from ya'll. This thread was completely derailed from my original point which was simply asking for advice on trouble shooting it(btw no I couldnt fix it with any of the suggestions.)

The only advice I received was from a member not everlast staff or moderators. And then in the back ground there is discussion of the quality of customer service...haha

[performance]

There's no parts sold for that pedal through Everlast and most are unique and specific to that pedal so in depth troubleshooting becomes sort of a moot point. From what you described it sounds as a completely bad pot. Now you may be able to source one elsewhere, but shaft length, and turns become critical. We have multiple threads on troubleshooting these pedals and did not originally see that you had mentioned that you had "looked" for one and I thought that you had probably done some research, which is why I did not go into detail. The only thing that could be wrong outside of that is that the cog has come completely loose with either a stripped thread in the set screw on the plastic cog or backed out someway allowing the cog to spin freely on the pedal. It would be unlikely that some change would not occur as friction should offer some rotation. You can check continuity between pins 1 and 2. Cycling the pedal up and down should activate the switch between these two pins giving continuity, then breaking it as it is switched off. Then pressing down on the pedal, check between pins 3 and 4 and then between 4 and 5 and watch the ohms as they go up and down from 0 to 47k on one side and 47 to 0k from the other (or 22k if the unit has the knob on it). (Needle meter is best) One side should go up and the other side should go down...both should do so smoothly without jerks or hesitation. If they do not, it is either a loose pot cog/frozen pot, broken belt, stripped belt, or a pot with dead spots on it.