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Thread: Long Welds in 5052

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kempy View Post
    I have it set to 0 Zero it is the drive motor wheels can't keep the wire at a constant speed, the motor needs to be bigger or a gear box to keep the wheels at a constant set speed.

    I recall what it was that I did with my gun that reduced burn back. I shortened the inner wire feed tube, and then rethreaded it so the tips would still screw in ok. I think the thread on the Miller forum (it might have been on the SEJW Usenet group) where they discussed that said you could cut it back as far as 1/4, but I only shortened mine about 3/16. The other two things I found to be critical for MIG welding aluminum with my gun was keeping the proper distance for spray arc (about 3/4 inch from the nozzle hood), and clipping the little ball off the end of the wire before every restart.

    I didn't have too much fear of trying that since the replacement parts where rather inexpensive if I wanted to turn it back to the way it was. Even Miller name brand wasn't too bad, but places like USA Weld also have replacement parts for those guns. (Made in the same factory on the same production line.)

    Given all of that I can't have any breeze at all on the immediate weld area or I get welds that look like I forgot to turn the gas on.

    If your spoolgun is not feeding wire properly check the inner liner (on my gun it looks like a spiral wound spring) between the rollers and the nozzle, and make sure you are using the correct size rollers. Also, if you have a spring loaded thumb release for separating the rollers to feed wire in check to make sure it is working properly and fully snapping back to pinch the wire when you release it.
    Last edited by Bob La Londe; 04-26-2014 at 06:11 PM.

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