Any chance its stuck on DC, does it buzz when the frequency is at 250? 4043 will need close 1/8 inch of visible cleaning action per side before the weld will get shinny, 5356 will get shinny with almost no cleaning action at all. I use 5356 most of the time because you can stop and start without the frosty band in the weld from a restart, I only use 4043 when it is a critical weld.
If you can crank in the electrode positive and not see any cleaning action or the tungsten does not ball up and burn back something is wrong. Possible bad A/C / D/C switch or bad AC balance potentiometer.
My welder will not lay down beautiful welds with 4043 with less than 35% electrode positive and 20 CFH, I have to crank up the frequency to keep the tungsten from balling up.
Any cups that chokes down like #5 and #6 or #8 on a large gas lens seem to help on aluminum, turn the bottle on all the way and make sure the collet body is tight and don't rely on the cap to tighten up and seal the torch consumables, this may help as well.
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