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Thread: 250DX AC Aluminum Weld Issue

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  1. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by everlastsupport View Post
    You want to set up about 30% on balance and 120 or so on frequency. If you watched Jody's videos with the 250EX you can see the knobs are about 2 o'clock and 10 o'clock left to right. Also, if you run 7 LPM you should be just fine.

    The information has been covered many times here on the forum and like Mark said it's covered in the manual. But that should get you straight. Post up some new shots so we can see.
    Well as Mark said I read the MANUAL and set the balance to 30%. No real big change in the weld. Still getting a lot of impurities and almost like a black foam covering while I'm trying to weld. I also tried it from 0-40% after the initial 30% didn't do much. I will include images below. Also my torch decided it didn't want to flew anymore and split at the neck. I have only had this thing for a few months. See the images below for settings and torch pic.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2

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    The welds look like the result of poor gas coverage or air mixing with the shielding gas. Upgrade to a CK torch with a superflex lead and you'll be much happier. Everlast sells CK, plug and play for their machines.
    Last edited by zoama; 11-13-2013 at 12:18 AM. Reason: Removed incorrect warranty info
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zoama585 View Post
    The welds look like the result of poor gas coverage or air mixing with the shielding gas. The warranty on accessories is 90 days. Upgrade to a CK torch with a superflex lead and you'll be much happier. Everlast sells CK, plug and play for their machines.
    Well I'm definitely in that 90 day window. Since when do they sell CK? They don't have any on their site under tig torches.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmost View Post
    Well I'm definitely in that 90 day window. Since when do they sell CK? They don't have any on their site under tig torches.
    They just started a while back. They have a new website in the works but until that's up, just call sales. CK torches are rated at 100% duty cycle in both AC and DC.
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  5. #5

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    We've sold CK about a year now. You call in to order and its by word of mouth mostly. We are adding them to the new website.
    The torch is warrantied for 6 months. We can ship you a new one. The torch will split usually from over heating, but that can happen in several ways, not just amps. Running too high of cleaning really heats up the torch and reduces the duty cycle of the torch. But as I said, it is under warranty if it's under 6 months.

    What tungsten are you using? Running a point or ball?

    It can also be a case of contaminated gas...which is not all that uncommon these days.

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    We've sold CK about a year now. You call in to order and its by word of mouth mostly. We are adding them to the new website.
    The torch is warrantied for 6 months. We can ship you a new one. The torch will split usually from over heating, but that can happen in several ways, not just amps. Running too high of cleaning really heats up the torch and reduces the duty cycle of the torch. But as I said, it is under warranty if it's under 6 months.

    What tungsten are you using? Running a point or ball?

    It can also be a case of contaminated gas...which is not all that uncommon these days.
    2% lanth. For aluminum balled, pointed for steel. Nice to know the torches are 6 months warranty. What do I do to swap out the torch? Or swap it out for a CK torch? Does a CK use the same internal hardware?

    Surprised to hear contaminated gas is not uncommon, that's the last thing I'd assume. Pretty sh**ty that's another variable I need to take into consideration now.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dmost View Post
    2% lanth. For aluminum balled, pointed for steel. Nice to know the torches are 6 months warranty. What do I do to swap out the torch? Or swap it out for a CK torch? Does a CK use the same internal hardware?

    Surprised to hear contaminated gas is not uncommon, that's the last thing I'd assume. Pretty sh**ty that's another variable I need to take into consideration now.
    for aluminum balled and for steel pointed? 2 percent lanthanated? can you elaborate on that?

  8. #8

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    The issue with contaminated gas accounts for about 85-90% of all complaints.

    Don't use a balled tungsten on AC. Use a pointed one, or a point with a slight truncation on the end, only a slight one is needed if at all for that amount of amperage...Balls destabilize the arc, and not recommended at all. Lanthanated is fine. To get a new torch, just call in to ext 202 and tell them the specifics.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Those welds have air contamination. You have a shielding gas problem. Probably the torch was leaking even before the split was visible. What size cup are you using? It looks on the small side for the width of the beads you are trying to run. What flow rate were you using and did you check everything for leaks? Even a tiny leak at the torch will suck in air and ruin your welds.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Those welds have air contamination. You have a shielding gas problem. Probably the torch was leaking even before the split was visible. What size cup are you using? It looks on the small side for the width of the beads you are trying to run. What flow rate were you using and did you check everything for leaks? Even a tiny leak at the torch will suck in air and ruin your welds.
    I was running at 15cfm and as far as I know it wasn't leaking. Only gas flow I've ever heard was threw the cup. I was using a 6.

  11. Default

    Well I tried the water cooled torch. Doesn't seem any different as it was before. I guess the next step is to check for bad gas. If I had bad gas would I still be able to weld steel nicely? After I welded some aluminum I threw down some nice beads on steel with no problem. Well here is the picture of the welds.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Everlast 250EX
    Hobart 140 MIG

  12. #12

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    Could you post a picture of the tungsten sticking out of the torch and the steel welds. What was your arc length ?
    2013 250EX : SSC Pedal : I-MIG 250P 20' Profax gun : Power Plasma 60 p80 torch : 3M Speedglas 9100XX : Evolution Rage 3 DB cold saw

  13. #13

    Default

    Your problem is largely coming from the metal in this picture. You can see the discoloration on the metal in that light. This is not cleaned well, not even close... Whatever is causing the discoloration, whether rust from a piece of steel, or laying in the dirt etc, this piece of metal is not cleaned well enough to start welding.

  14. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by performance View Post
    Your problem is largely coming from the metal in this picture. You can see the discoloration on the metal in that light. This is not cleaned well, not even close... Whatever is causing the discoloration, whether rust from a piece of steel, or laying in the dirt etc, this piece of metal is not cleaned well enough to start welding.
    I went at it with a stainless brush. That's the same level I've cleaned aluminum and welded on other machines perfectly fine.
    Everlast 250EX
    Hobart 140 MIG

  15. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zoama585 View Post
    Could you post a picture of the tungsten sticking out of the torch and the steel welds. What was your arc length ?
    i would like to know if those shots of the al welds are all on the same piece of aluminum.

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