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Thread: Cart Build

  1. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    I've use one of these for years. It's also magnetic, but might be a bit large to stick on the top of smaller welders.

    .
    Where do you find these? That might fit well if you remove the lifting handle. Looks like it would be better suited for a table though. I envision consumables all over the floor when you go over a bump!

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeanMurphy265 View Post
    I have the harbor freight notcher and I have been happy with it. I do use good hole saws which I'm sure helps. I do plan to add some shims to mine.
    This is encouraging. I have been looking at many of the cheaper tube notchers including the the HF one. The Eastwood notcher is another one I've checked out, which others have noted the same issue with the offset. Is it that hard to get them centered up during production? Shim the machines that produce these notchers if you have to people!

    Quote Originally Posted by its_34 View Post
    That is brilliantly simple, thanks for posting. I think I'll cut something similar out of aluminum sheet and weld it to the shelf on the torch-side of the unit.
    I have a different way of hanging my torch, a hanger that I made from 1/4" stainless stock and stainless sheet metal (scraps). The best part about having any type of hanger for your torch is that you can hang the torch up if you're done welding for the day and you don't have to wait for it to cool down. It can take an especially long time for the torches to cool if you have gotten them hot and they aren't water-cooled, and coiling a hot torch up probably isn't a good idea. If nothing else, you could create a meltdown.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    I've use one of these for years. It's also magnetic, but might be a bit large to stick on the top of smaller welders.



    I think I'll have to make a couple of Kempy's style.

    Another thing I want to try is chop saw notching. There is a good thread about it HERE along with an online calculator to figure out the angles.
    It's funny you posted that magnetic torch and accessories holder. I was just remembering the fancy stainless sheet version that a Journeyman at my previous job made from scratch, using the Rotex punch to make all the needed holes in the base. I thought he was a genius, but now I see that he simply copied a store bought design. His version looked way cooler though.

    As for the chop saw notching, my neighbor used that process to scratch build a motorcycle frame, and the results were very impressive (he's a member of that forum and probably got the idea from it)! I still like the fuller mouth opening of the tube cut using a hole saw though. Ideally (if I had room for it), I'd build my belt sander for that sort of work. I actually have most of the parts to complete the tool, but no space to store it!
    Andy
    New Everlast PowerTig 250EX that is begging for me to come up with a few welding projects so it can stretch it's legs. Did someone say aluminum???

    MISC. TOOLS:
    Atlas 618 lathe
    Milwaukee Porta Band with custom made stand
    Dewalt 4-1/2" angle grinder
    Dewalt 14" chop saw

    Strong Hand Nomad portable table
    Juki sewing machine I've had for years (yes I know sewing is for girls)

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kempy View Post
    I made this to hold my torches one mount to the cart and one on a magnet mount to use on the bench or were I am welding.
    That looks much safer than just letting the torch dangle. Thanks.
    Penncrest Buzzbox - Infinite amp control! Man the 70's were good.
    Everlast Powerplasma 60 - Reliable unit, cuts well.
    Everlast i-MIG 250P w/spoolgun - Really smooth, plenty of cajones.
    Everlast 250EXT - Sometimes it just takes a kick in the balls...
    Everlast 255EXT - Just started playing

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by its_34 View Post
    Where do you find these? That might fit well if you remove the lifting handle. Looks like it would be better suited for a table though. I envision consumables all over the floor when you go over a bump!
    Probably more suited to stationary machines. I'm more used to TIG machines that need a forklift to move. I got it at LWS. First one maybe 30 years ago, but left it when I quit. Found the second maybe 10-15 years ago but looks like they are still being made.

    http://www.rmiorder.com/product/SE/TIG-1/Tig-Caddie

    Did knock it off welder last year and parts flew for sure. Probably no so good for a cart mounted machine. And not something to take over to the bench, so that is why I will make some like Kempy to stick where ever. Maybe even with an old on-off mag base for a dial indicator.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    I've use one of these for years. It's also magnetic, but might be a bit large to stick on the top of smaller welders.



    I think I'll have to make a couple of Kempy's style.

    Another thing I want to try is chop saw notching. There is a good thread about it HERE along with an online calculator to figure out the angles.
    The chop saw I don't like but belt sander is what I use and works very well it is quick and you can do many angles fast.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
    Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
    Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
    Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
    Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by youngnstudly View Post
    This is encouraging. I have been looking at many of the cheaper tube notchers including the the HF one. The Eastwood notcher is another one I've checked out, which others have noted the same issue with the offset. Is it that hard to get them centered up during production? Shim the machines that produce these notchers if you have to people!
    I probably made it sound worse than it is. Out of the box, mine would cut a notch that was probably 1/4" longer on one side than the other. There are three mounting bolts on the clamp and I used various washer thicknesses to get the spindle centered on the tube. It wasn't. A major ordeal. Using a quality bit is key as SeanMurphy265 mentioned.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kempy View Post
    The chop saw I don't like but belt sander is what I use and works very well it is quick and you can do many angles fast.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's a really nice fit. I imagine this method can be tedious with heavier wall tubing but it looks like you have a pretty substantial sander that's up to the task. My little 4x36 would shred a belt before too long (or stall).

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by its_34 View Post
    That's a really nice fit. I imagine this method can be tedious with heavier wall tubing but it looks like you have a pretty substantial sander that's up to the task. My little 4x36 would shred a belt before too long (or stall).
    School board sell off old tools and getting new ones it is a 6X48 Delta belt sander for $200.00, Rockwell 14" Table saw $210.00 and a Delta 12" Radial Arm saw $100.00.
    I used a Sears 4X36 for years and yes I usually do tubes up to .125 in. wall and max. dia. of 2.50 in. if it is heaver I saw it close and then sand it.
    Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
    Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
    Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
    Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
    Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)

  9. #49
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    I notice you are not using the miter guide. Do you do all these by eye? I move between things so much lately, I doubt I would ever get enough time to get a good eye for this anymore, and would resort to using the miter guide. I also had to hunt down an older cast iron 6x48 belt sander, to get what I wanted.

    Our schools sold off most of their tools some years ago and CANCELLED all the programs.
    Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    I notice you are not using the miter guide. Do you do all these by eye? I move between things so much lately, I doubt I would ever get enough time to get a good eye for this anymore, and would resort to using the miter guide. I also had to hunt down an older cast iron 6x48 belt sander, to get what I wanted.

    Our schools sold off most of their tools some years ago and CANCELLED all the programs.
    Yes just my eyes you get use to it just flip it up and look at it to see if both sides are the same. I use to draw a line down it and keep it up in center but not now.
    Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
    Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
    Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
    Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
    Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)

  11. Default

    Thanks, Kempy. I stole your torch holder idea and fabbed one up today.
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  12. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rambozo View Post
    Our schools sold off most of their tools some years ago and CANCELLED all the programs.
    Same problem here. I missed a local school auction bid on a Delta sander by $10 and it was from the '50s.
    Now the schools don't seem too interested in teaching craft skills. Metal work must not be on the state minimum standards test.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by its_34 View Post
    Thanks, Kempy. I stole your torch holder idea and fabbed one up today.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Glade to help and you did a very nice job on it. I find the ones you buy put a stress on the hose bending it over time and some times they are hard to get out with a long tungsten cap but they are only $10.00 at P.A. you can use the magnet mount.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Kempy; 09-15-2013 at 12:29 PM. Reason: change
    Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
    Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
    Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
    Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
    Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)

  14. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kempy View Post
    Glade to help and you did a very nice job on it. I find the ones you buy put a stress on the hose bending it over time and some times they are hard to get out with a long tungsten cap but they are only $10.00 at P.A. you can use the magnet mount.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I see what you mean. Looks like that could do some damage if you had a good length of hose unsupported but the magnet is pretty convenient.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kempy View Post
    The chop saw I don't like but belt sander is what I use and works very well it is quick and you can do many angles fast.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice work my friend.

    I use a tubing notcher but of the home-made variety on a drill press. Sometimes I still need a die grinder, belt sander, sanding wheel, just to get close to some of your pic's. Sometimes the metal gods smile upon you and sometimes not so much.....

    Thanks,
    t3t4

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by t3t4 View Post
    Nice work my friend.

    I use a tubing notcher but of the home-made variety on a drill press. Sometimes I still need a die grinder, belt sander, sanding wheel, just to get close to some of your pic's. Sometimes the metal gods smile upon you and sometimes not so much.....

    Thanks,
    t3t4
    T3t4 I see a lot of people use tube notcher’s but that’s OK if you are doing the same size tube a lot. I use 3/4”, 7/8”, 1.0” and 1 1/8” tubing a lot changing the cutter is a pain and clamping the tube that is why I use the belt sander all in one it notches any size tube.
    Everlast PowerTig 325EXT (Canada)
    Everlast Power I Mig 250 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerPlasma 80S (Canada)
    Everlast PowerCool W300 (Canada)
    Everlast PowerMTS 250S Fitted with a 30A Spoolgun(Canada)
    Miller Dynasty 400 wireless(Canada)
    Millermatic 252 plus 30A Spoolgun(Canada)

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