wrought iron fence repair: wire and settings needed.

[johnnymg]

Ya must've missed post #15.
If you have any problems with the wire getting jammed in the tip just go up to the next size tip and it'll work fine.

Thanks for both suggestions.............. even if I was asleep at the wheel on the first one.

What is the mechanism for the wire getting jammed in the tip? That did happen a few times today after switching to DCEN.

thanks again
JohnG

[Rambozo]

The wire preheats from the length of stickout. The flux can expand and swell the wire causing jamming from excessive stickout. Too short won't get the flux preheated enough.
Check this out for examples of too much and too little of just about everything.

[johnnymg]

The wire preheats from the length of stickout. The flux can expand and swell the wire causing jamming from excessive stickout. Too short won't get the flux preheated enough.
Check this out for examples of too much and too little of just about everything.

Man, that's a really good vid. I think I did just about every one of those "wrong" techniques.

cheers
JohnG

[johnnymg]

Pieces of the puzzle falling into place........... fab'd a 220-115V adapter. I've got a 100' (very beefy) extension cord I'll be using for this repair. I'd probably get at it but it's BLAZING outside and much more enjoyable to be surfing the web with a cold drink by my side. Did I mention I was retired???


cheers
JohnG

[Rambozo]

Just a heads up. Be sure you have the hot and neutral on the correct poles on your adapter. It is kinda counter intuitive as to which is which because the blade/color standards are different between 240V and 120V. You want to make sure that the neutral is on the white wire of the welder, which will be the narrow blade on the 240V plug but the wide blade of the 120V plug.

[johnnymg]

Just a heads up. Be sure you have the hot and neutral on the correct poles on your adapter. It is kinda counter intuitive as to which is which because the blade/color standards are different between 240V and 120V. You want to make sure that the neutral is on the white wire of the welder, which will be the narrow blade on the 240V plug but the wide blade of the 120V plug.

Thanks, that's the way I wired it.

However, I was half tempted to see if the 'auto sense' would work with the hot (line) connected to the white wire of the welder and the neutral connected to the black wire.

cheers
JohnG

[Rambozo]

Not sure if they have made that a feature, yet. From what I gather the welder checks to see if the white is hot, if it is it switches to 240V mode, if it isn't it goes to 120V mode. So if you swap them, it thinks it's on 240V, but running way under voltage and not good. There are real old posts about it damaging the machine. Nothing lately, so no idea if they added something to idiot-proof that. I put a small neon bulb in my plug so I could see that things were good before I powered up the machine. With something portable, you never know when you will run into a mis-wired outlet.



I made my adapter the other direction to keep things compact, and allow me use the same type extension cord for 120V or 240V. Less stuff to haul to a jobsite.