wrought iron fence repair: wire and settings needed.

[johnnymg]

Big Greetings

I'm going to be repairing an old wrought iron fence and would like some recommendations on what process/materials to use. I'll likely use my imig 200 so settings/wire recs for OUTDOOR welding is what I'm looking for. I have a bunch of ER70S wire (in the usual suspect sizes) but I'm thinking that maybe a dual shield wire would be better for outdoor welding. ????

FWIW, the square tubing I'm repairing into is somewhat "worn". i.e. a bit rusty inside. This is mostly a cosmetic repair for now.

thanks a bunch!
JohnG

[Rambozo]

Big Greetings

I'm going to be repairing an old wrought iron fence and would like some recommendations on what process/materials to use. I'll likely use my imig 200 so settings/wire recs for OUTDOOR welding is what I'm looking for. I have a bunch of ER70S wire (in the usual suspect sizes) but I'm thinking that maybe a dual shield wire would be better for outdoor welding. ????

FWIW, the square tubing I'm repairing into is somewhat "worn". i.e. a bit rusty inside. This is mostly a cosmetic repair for now.

Too bad it really isn't "wrought iron" but steel tubing instead. The iron would be easy. I just finished up a bit of that work with both stick and TIG but no MIG. The real problem is that the rust makes the tubing all different thicknesses. So expect to be tweaking settings as you move along. Try to figure out the real thin pieces if you can before welding. Tapping on them can help as the sound will change. If you have some scraps you have cut off, that will help but if not, dial your settings back and sneak up on it to prevent blowing through. Flux core would be nice if there is wind, but then your post weld cleanup will be a pain. I would first try to set up something to shield you from the breeze if it's not too bad. Just a tarp or a sheet of plywood can make all the difference.

[johnnymg]

Too bad it really isn't "wrought iron" but steel tubing instead. The iron would be easy. I just finished up a bit of that work with both stick and TIG but no MIG. The real problem is that the rust makes the tubing all different thicknesses. So expect to be tweaking settings as you move along. Try to figure out the real thin pieces if you can before welding. Tapping on them can help as the sound will change. If you have some scraps you have cut off, that will help but if not, dial your settings back and sneak up on it to prevent blowing through. Flux core would be nice if there is wind, but then your post weld cleanup will be a pain. I would first try to set up something to shield you from the breeze if it's not too bad. Just a tarp or a sheet of plywood can make all the difference.

Yes, this old fence is just plain steel square tubing.

Hmmmmm, I have some unopened 3/32" 7018. Do you think that would work or will I likely need even thinner rod. The tubing is pretty thin. I do have a bunch of "spare" tubing so have plenty of practice material.

One additional plus for the stick process is that I wouldn't have to transport a gas bottle 400+ miles to the job site.

regards
JohnG

[DaveO]

What kind of joints, just for curiosity? I'm wondering if a 6013 electrode for low penetration might help. I've seen them in 1/16".

[performance]

If you are joining any cast iron decorations, use 6011 to join it, don't use mig wire or you'll rue the day.

[Mr120]

If you are joining any cast iron decorations, use 6011 to join it, don't use mig wire or you'll rue the day.

Good point about MIG and cast iron. I've heard that can have issues. What exactly is going on that can make a MIG welded cast iron part problematic?

[everlastsupport]

If this is thin rusted square tubibg, I would start at 14 volts and 190-200 on the speed, test a piece. Adjust volts up from there. And I would use flux core if outside. Are there cast iron parts like the thread states??

[performance]

The wire "chemistry" shrinks at a different rate than the cast, mainly because of the higher carbon content so, naturally it is going to pull apart on the weakest part, which is the cast. 6011, though not for structural cast welds, has carbon in the flux, and though I am no expert on it, it must mix into the metal making a transition somehow,that's more solid. Of course, nickel rods are the best way to do it.

[johnnymg]

If this is thin rusted square tubibg, I would start at 14 volts and 190-200 on the speed, test a piece. Adjust volts up from there. And I would use flux core if outside. Are there cast iron parts like the thread states??

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

Very sorry for the misdirect: There is no "wrought iron" on this fence............ just plain old thin-wall steel square tubing. Tubing wall thickness is around 1/16".

So flux core MIG or stick...............?????

regards
JohnG

[sportbike]

If you are going to use flux core, make sure you practice with it a bit first, it welds differently than using solid wire and gas.

[zoama]

I'd use .030 flux core in the mig welder.

[everlastsupport]

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

Very sorry for the misdirect: There is no "wrought iron" on this fence............ just plain old thin-wall steel square tubing. Tubing wall thickness is around 1/16".

So flux core MIG or stick...............?????

regards
JohnG

MIG and flux core .030 start low on volts if 1/16" and work up. The IMIG 200 will handle it with no problems, just a little tweaking on volts.

Stick will work fine as well, but if you are asking for settings, I think you will like MIG better. MIG will spoil you.

[johnnymg]

Thanks again for all of the suggestions. I will order (or pick up) a roll of 0.030" flux cored wire. Will report back with the results of the practice welds.

cheers
JohnG

[SeanMurphy265]

I'm going against the grain! I hate flux core wire! I use copper wire and drag the bottle and welder using my cart made from a cheapo northern tool dolley. The good thing about the Imig is that you can do both mig and stick weld.

A while back I did some fence repair that had aluminum cast parts that will not mig weld!

[zoama]

Thanks again for all of the suggestions. I will order (or pick up) a roll of 0.030" flux cored wire. Will report back with the results of the practice welds.

cheers
JohnG

Don't forget to switch to DCEN for flux core.

[Rambozo]

I'm siding with Sean on this, too. I hate all the post weld cleanup of flux core and most stick, so I would try solid wire MIG and something to block the wind as I mentioned before. But the biggest thing I would take away (thought I posted this before, but I guess not) is that with 400+ miles, TAKE EVERYTHING! That's a great thing about the iMIG, it does it all with one machine. You never know what you will run into and you can figure out what gives the results you want. How much clean up also depends on where and how much welding you are doing and what kind of paint is going on after. If you are gonna slap on some nice thick paint, clean up is minimal. If you're just gonna hit it with a rattle can, you will see and feel all the spatter if it's not cleaned good. Good MIG you can pretty much just stop welding, let it cool a little and paint away. Flux core or stick is chip, chip, chip, brush, brush, brush, and maybe even grind or sand here and there. Adds a lot of work if you are welding a lot, and might be in places where that's hard to do.

[johnnymg]

I'm siding with Sean on this, too. I hate all the post weld cleanup of flux core and most stick, so I would try solid wire MIG and something to block the wind as I mentioned before. But the biggest thing I would take away (thought I posted this before, but I guess not) is that with 400+ miles, TAKE EVERYTHING! That's a great thing about the iMIG, it does it all with one machine. You never know what you will run into and you can figure out what gives the results you want. How much clean up also depends on where and how much welding you are doing and what kind of paint is going on after. If you are gonna slap on some nice thick paint, clean up is minimal. If you're just gonna hit it with a rattle can, you will see and feel all the spatter if it's not cleaned good. Good MIG you can pretty much just stop welding, let it cool a little and paint away. Flux core or stick is chip, chip, chip, brush, brush, brush, and maybe even grind or sand here and there. Adds a lot of work if you are welding a lot, and might be in places where that's hard to do.

OK, there's some good input!

Other than the bottle transport I'm OK with the plan to try both "plain" and flux core wire. I may have to bite the bullet and get a C25 bottle at the second location. That would give me some options I don't have right now.

cheers
JohnG

[Rambozo]

Portability is nice.



You can either get a small C25 bottle for that purpose or you can also get a very small CO2 setup that uses paintball cyls that you can have filled at a lot of sporting goods stores and stuff. Not as clean as C25 but super portable. Have a look.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...er-210mvp.html

[youngnstudly]

I think it really depends on just how much welding you have to do. If there isn't much and it's all thin wall, I'd try to use the flux core setup, assuming you can get a grinder with a wire wheel into all the spots to quickly clean the slag off. Do you have a ton of short beads to do, or is this more of a minor repair every 15 feet (for example)?

[everlastsupport]

I would always prefer C25, BUT make sure you take the flux core. Also, add a fire extinguisher to your check list and welding blanket.

I've actually sat in a modified refrigerator cardboard box for a wind block (keep an eye for fire)

Maybe some 1/2" painters masking tape and anti-spatter spray if you really think there will be that much spatter. I use a small hobart with flux core all the time and other than a wire wheel, looks fine for paint.