I would say that you need to start out using no filler rod (with the foot pedal), just simply run the torch along your metal in a straight line generating the smallest bead you can get....I'm talking about a bead that is nearly invisible! Forget the torch switch for now. The idea here is to learn what you need to watch out for in order to produce a weld that isn't too hot. Being up close and personal while running your beads is something that is necessary too. Many people tend to TIG weld hunched over while squinting from a distance, and I've found that you really need to be "right there" in front of the bead to see what's going on.

Once you get to that point where a simple fusion weld looks good (isn't dark grey in color, has a nice ripple pattern, etc.), increase your heat just enough to melt your filler metal, and start adding rod. As Paul mentioned, you may have an easier time using smaller rod when learning. Larger rod means more heat, which can complicate things for you if you don't know what to watch for. Too much heat is easy to do when TIG welding. Keep the beads small if you can help it.

I think DVA's suggestion of welding lap and corner joints is perfect, and I'd start there using your 3/32" filler rod. You can fuse weld a lap joint using low heat, then go over the top of your fusion weld with a "normal" bead that uses filler rod. Keep the heat low enough on the fusion weld to leave your top plate's corner intact (not rolled or melted off) so that you have a visible line to follow for your top bead. Then start stacking your lapped joints together to form more lap joints to weld.

You can weld corners together on 2 pieces of flat stock (say 6" long) in the flat position, using a piece of angle iron below to clamp your flat stock to. The flat stock will be welded together in the position that resembles an upside down letter "V". Then you take all of your upside down "V's" and put them together to make the letter "M". Then weld your "M's" together to create one long "MMMMM." All the legs of the M would be at 45 degree angles (not straight up like the keyboard version of "M" shows), so it would technically look like this: /\/\/\/\/\

Good practice for welding peaks and valleys, or weld the peaks, then flip the piece over and weld the peaks on the otherside where the legs of the "M's" meet. One simple 4" long strip of 1"x1/8" flat stock would keep you busy for a little while.

FYI, my Everlast tig doesn't allow amp control on the panel with the foot pedal plugged in either. I believe that this is normal for most (if not all) Everlast welders, so you really have to use your foot pedal conservatively in order to produce small, low amp welds. It's noted on the Everlast site if you search through their different TIG welders too. Good luck!