Project 4 from Agent4573 - Category - Offroad Fabrication

[agent4573]

Got to work on some of the electrical. I'm not a neat person and my buddy volunteered to help me wire it. I think the dash came out looking pretty decent. Eventually I'm going to have a pro redo all the sheet metal and put in a new dash, but for now this serves it purpose.




I moved on to the rear suspension after that. Got the new arms in, but before I did I had to take them to another buddy and have him move the mounts backwards a few inches so the shocks would clear the frame.




Added in some extra support for the rear arms and made sure everything was in double-shear.



Eventually it came to the point where it could hold itself up under its own power.


After that I put on some skin just to keep myself from getting literally sandblasted.

[agent4573]

Got it to the point where I could take it out for its maiden voyage.



It ran great for about 30 minutes and then started running really terribly. Took off the timing belt covers to find this:



Turns out I had a nut or bolt that fell into the timing cover and I didn't realize it. Tore up the brand new belt and the drivers side exhaust cam skipped a tooth. I put a new belt on it and it fired up again. Luckily no major damage was done.

Now it was time for the real test, does it fit in my trailer? This was really the only reason I built a buggy instead of buying one, because a normal 4 seater wouldn't fit in my trailer. With almost no room to spare, it FIT!





We went out to Dumont over halloween and I took it for its first REAL ride.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvrtI6LSba0


It did ok, but a few issues presented themselves that need to be fixed. Its WAY down on power. The motor is supposed to redline at 7000rpm, and it barely makes it to 5300 before it runs out of steam. I think the Autozone straight tube headers I threw together real quick are a leading factor in that. I now have nice 1.75" mandrel bent exhaust kit sitting in my living room. Hopefully this weekend I can cut/weld a nice set of smooth flowing headers for it. It ran really hot. That could be because the tune is so out, but I think mostly its because the radiator is directly behind the seat. I cut it out and mounted it on the two rear most bars on top of the engine. I'm also making a new fuel cell for it as the one in the pictures only hold 6 gallons. My new one sits where the radiator used to and holds about 12.5 gallons. I've also sent the ECU out to get modified so I can tune it. Once I get everything back in, I'll take it down to a shop in LA and spend big $$$ on a full dyno tune. So thats my update. I'll post video once I get it on the dyno.

[performance]

When it slipped a cog, it could have slightly bent a valve just enough to keep it from building the power it needs.

[its_34]

When it slipped a cog, it could have slightly bent a valve just enough to keep it from building the power it needs.

Mark may have nailed it here. Definitely do a leak down before investing in any tuning work. Even just some air pressure in the plug holes at TDC will tell you a lot.

Either way, congrats on getting it out for the first time! That's the big reward at the end of all the work.

How is your radiator mounted? Is it solid to the frame or floating?

[agent4573]

It was down on power before it slipped the tooth. I'm gonna do a compression check on it as soon as I find my tester, but I think a lot of it has to do with the exhaust. Radiator has two standoffs that slip into rubber gromets on the bottom, and two tabs that bolt to the frame on the top. Between the tabs and the frame I put a 1/8" piece of rubber sheet. I'll try to get pictures tonight, as it took me all weekend to finish the radiator mounts and get the gas tank sealed up. Dam pinholes in aluminum suck. Guess I just need more practice as aluminum welding. New tank holds 11.75 gallons with the sump, which is so much better than the 6 gallons before.