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Thread: Project 4 from Trip. Category: General Welding repair

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Whine Country, California
    Posts
    442

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    Your repaired areas turned out very nice, especially considering that you started with a piece of junk!

    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    I had to blast the parts I painted last night, damn paint didn't cure properly and had run like mad, more than I thought.
    You should really use a self etching primer on that bare metal (you can get it at your local auto parts store in spray cans for around $5 or $6). Probably not what you want to hear, but it does a nice job of getting the paint to adhere to bare metal, and can usually be scuffed off the next day as it is fast drying. Plus it hides the imperfections nicely and creates less transparency when applying the top coat of paint.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    Thanks! I'll be sure to snap more as I go through, the rest of the welding as well as reassembly. This may become a regular thing, I'm fed up with horrible freight tools, this project turned a light on in the attic; buy old broken, fix up and use.
    My feeling exactly! I rebuilt a 1950's Atlas lathe this year for the same reason, and I'm getting ready to repair/rebuild a few other vintage tools that are missing parts or are damaged! It's bad enough that tools are so expensive to begin with, but even the quality on tools today from high-end manufactures isn't what it was 30 or 40 years ago! I can hardly afford to buy stuff once, let alone 2 or 3 times over!

    Quote Originally Posted by agent4573 View Post
    Last time I used my portable bandsaw the blade kept slipping and it barely cut through anything. I ordered new blades for it, got the Lennox 3-pack for like 40 bucks. It cut through the metal tubing like freaking butter. I would highly recommend getting yourself a decent blade if it doesn't already have one on it.
    I use the Milwaukee brand blades for my Milwaukee portable bandsaw, but I might look for the Lennox ones next time. I always had good luck with them in my portable (read:HAND) hacksaw-LOL. The local hardware store only carries one brand of blades for portable (power) saws, so I'm limited on options locally.
    Andy
    New Everlast PowerTig 250EX that is begging for me to come up with a few welding projects so it can stretch it's legs. Did someone say aluminum???

    MISC. TOOLS:
    Atlas 618 lathe
    Milwaukee Porta Band with custom made stand
    Dewalt 4-1/2" angle grinder
    Dewalt 14" chop saw

    Strong Hand Nomad portable table
    Juki sewing machine I've had for years (yes I know sewing is for girls)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Middleburg Florida
    Posts
    556

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    Quote Originally Posted by youngnstudly View Post
    Your repaired areas turned out very nice, especially considering that you started with a piece of junk!

    You should really use a self etching primer on that bare metal (you can get it at your local auto parts store in spray cans for around $5 or $6). Probably not what you want to hear, but it does a nice job of getting the paint to adhere to bare metal, and can usually be scuffed off the next day as it is fast drying. Plus it hides the imperfections nicely and creates less transparency when applying the top coat of paint.

    My feeling exactly! I rebuilt a 1950's Atlas lathe this year for the same reason, and I'm getting ready to repair/rebuild a few other vintage tools that are missing parts or are damaged! It's bad enough that tools are so expensive to begin with, but even the quality on tools today from high-end manufactures isn't what it was 30 or 40 years ago! I can hardly afford to buy stuff once, let alone 2 or 3 times over!

    I use the Milwaukee brand blades for my Milwaukee portable bandsaw, but I might look for the Lennox ones next time. I always had good luck with them in my portable (read:HAND) hacksaw-LOL. The local hardware store only carries one brand of blades for portable (power) saws, so I'm limited on options locally.
    Don't remember what blades I bought, but that's what started this. I borrowed his other saw a year or so ago, bought a three pack of blades, gave him one as a thank you, left the one I used on the saw and hung one on my wall in case I needed to borrow it again (this guy is hell on tools, no counting on a usable blade). He knew I had one and borrowed it, then gave me that blade and the saw back, as well as a used other blade (will save for the metal, blade is shot). I picked them up at Lowes and they sure do cut nice, was about $20 for 3 if I recall.

    As far as the paint, I'm not sold on the cheapie self etching primers, if I went PPG or something, yeah, but I'd rather follow my process. Degrease, rinse, etch, rinse, paint. The can must have been a bad can, or wouldn't mix right, but it ran on wood, I chucked it. The other paint I used turned out fine. The goal of this is to not spend anything, thus the two pieces of filler instead of just buying a 1"x1/8"...

    Rebuilding the banjo on my Atlas/Craftsman (though it's being replaced with hopefully a Monarch this summer) rebuilding a 40's Van Norman mill, etc. Those are easy to see the value. I hadn't really thought about refurbing smaller tools, but this one really turned my thoughts around. I am pretty happy with the new Milwaukee 14" abrasive saw I bought last year, even though it's Taiwanese.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  3. #3

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    Your doing a great job and I appreciate all the detail pics!! Nice work!
    PowerTig 250EX
    Power I-MIG 200
    Power Plasma 50
    It's what you learn, After you know it all, that counts!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Middleburg Florida
    Posts
    556

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    Reassembly was, well... reassembly. I have one more piece to weld up (the guard) and several parts to order (tires, one washer, two snap rings) and then I'll start on the table and pivoting mount.





    The gray stripe was the bearing support for the armature, didn't want to tap out and I didn't want to break anything trying to press it, if I replace the bearings later I'll do it and paint it. I shortened the cord, started at the plug and looked along till the first tape ball, cut it there and still had around 6' of cord left. Doesn't really need to be much longer, it'll almost always be on an extension cord anyhow.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Greater Seattle, WA
    Posts
    813

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    Nice work, Trip!
    '13 Everlast 255EXT
    '07 Everlast Super200P

  6. #6

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    That looks extremely nice. I wish someone would give me something like that even if it needed repairs. I have been thinking about getting a bandsaw.
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Whine Country, California
    Posts
    442

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    As far as the paint, I'm not sold on the cheapie self etching primers, if I went PPG or something, yeah, but I'd rather follow my process. Degrease, rinse, etch, rinse, paint. The can must have been a bad can, or wouldn't mix right, but it ran on wood, I chucked it. The other paint I used turned out fine. The goal of this is to not spend anything, thus the two pieces of filler instead of just buying a 1"x1/8"...

    Rebuilding the banjo on my Atlas/Craftsman (though it's being replaced with hopefully a Monarch this summer) rebuilding a 40's Van Norman mill, etc. Those are easy to see the value. I hadn't really thought about refurbing smaller tools, but this one really turned my thoughts around. I am pretty happy with the new Milwaukee 14" abrasive saw I bought last year, even though it's Taiwanese.
    I agree with you on the self etching primers in spray can form, but I don't have the ability to professionally spray parts...you'd think I would be good with a spray gun since my father has been building hot rods and restoring cars for 40 years, but around 15 years ago he started seeing that his trade was going down the tubes, so he never began teaching me auto body and paint. He knew it wouldn't be a lasting career for me. I learned some forming and shaping, hammer and dolly work, and more specialized welding techniques for sheet metal through my Union trade school, but the only spray gun I've ever "fiddled" with was the glue gun setup at work-LOL. I can't stand the smell of those chemicals anyways (especially primers!), so it worked out for the best.

    My goal lately has been to spend as little as possible on stuff (No income since August!), so I totally understand not wanting to spend money to piece together "freebie" tools. I bought a few Milwaukee brand drill (right angle) adapters, a chuck for my impact gun, and mandrels for Milwaukee hole saws, and most of those parts are made in Taiwan too.

    The saw looks like new! I enjoyed seeing the progress you made on it!
    Andy
    New Everlast PowerTig 250EX that is begging for me to come up with a few welding projects so it can stretch it's legs. Did someone say aluminum???

    MISC. TOOLS:
    Atlas 618 lathe
    Milwaukee Porta Band with custom made stand
    Dewalt 4-1/2" angle grinder
    Dewalt 14" chop saw

    Strong Hand Nomad portable table
    Juki sewing machine I've had for years (yes I know sewing is for girls)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    1,323

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    When you first posted I remember thinking "How's he gonna do that without the broken off pieces", and then saw your post #7. Nicely done.

    I like the "buy old and rebuild" idea, which works because you already have the trade-off in mind (effort vs. return).
    DaveO
    Oxweld oxy acet gear
    IMIG 200
    PowerTIG 210 EXT... Amazing!

  9. Default

    That came out very very nice. Good job.
    Poewr I-Mig 205P
    Powertig 185

  10. #10

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    A little off topic but doing collision is not on the verge of death is it.. I know the work sucks but if someone really wanted that career, wouldn't that be a place to suffice.
    Jason
    Everlast 255EXT - Perfection
    Everlast PowerPro 256 - UPS Demolished
    Everlast MTS200s
    12 Ton Shop Press
    DeWalt Hand Tools/ChopSaw

  11. #11

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    I would love to see more detailed pictures and description of how to do that kind of repair. How do you go about filling in that much missing metal? Do you just keep building it up and then grind it smooth? I'm fascinated by how good this turned out.
    IMig 200

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