PowerTig 225LX Foot Pedal stopped working, How to Ohm Test?

[Welderooni]

...I take it that the reading was 0L?...

Yes, 0.L with switch on & off with the multimeter in the Ohm position. What does the L mean? I ordered 2 new switches and will use the one with the higher AMP rating(15A and 11A) when they get here and keep the other one as a backup. One is made by E-Switch and the other by Honeywell.

Btw, has anyone else had a switch in these pedals fail on them? Thank you all for your help, great community here! .

[Rambozo]

Yes, 0.L with switch on & off with the multimeter in the Ohm position. What does the L mean? I ordered 2 new switches and will use the one with the higher AMP rating(15A and 11A) when they get here and keep the other one as a backup. One is made by E-Switch and the other by Honeywell.

Btw, has anyone else had a switch in these pedals fail on them? Thank you all for your help, great community here! .

0.L means OverLoad as in infinite resistance. The opposite of zero. If it was 0 it would be on all the time. You can find that microswitch at any electronics shop.

[jakeru]

Nice diagnostic work! I've got an old Fluke multimeter as well... nice, trusty unit, has lasted many years and still as good as it was new.

I've had microswitches like that fail, although they had nothing to do with an Everlast product. One was in an old microwave (one of the door switches), and another was in a motorized water valve-timer. The microwave door switch, I first paid a pro to diagnose and fix. The second time it went out, I fixed it myself. By splitting the microswitch I could see the insides, and determined that it failed by arcing between the switch contacts. I learned through that not to open the door to shut off the cooking action of the microwave, but instead to press "cancel" button first then open door. I sure wish the "pro" appliance repairman would have given me that advice the first time it failed! (In honesty, I don't think he figured out the failure mode... he just told me "don't slam the door", which actually had nothing to do with the failure mode, and besides, I never did slam the door!)

In the motorized water valve timer, I was always able to get it working some more by tweaking the metal arm a bit. But it kept needing attention and this got to be tiresome - probably because it is a cheaply made switch. It's generally a very cheaply made product (comes from harbor freight after all) and I will probably just replace the whole thing with a better quality one sometime.

[Tcable5]

my pedal did the same thing, accept the gas would flow, everything on the pot was OL on mine. got a new one sent to me and it works great now, so thanks everlast! i just hope this pedal lasts a couple years until i upgrade it

[everlastsupport]

my pedal did the same thing, accept the gas would flow, everything on the pot was OL on mine. got a new one sent to me and it works great now, so thanks everlast! i just hope this pedal lasts a couple years until i upgrade it

The foot pedals are pretty simple inside and the parts can be picked you at many places. So you should be fine for years.