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Thread: Cast Iron Car block tig welded

  1. #1
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    Default Cast Iron Car block tig welded

    Tig weld cast iron car bloak with Cronatron cast iron tig rod they make stick also. Cut a piece of cast iron off a inboard V8 water cooled exhaust mainifold: Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    You're quick with the camera- looks like a curl of smoke in the last photo. How did you clean and prep? What kind of vehicle is the engine out of?

    If you don't mind me suggesting, I notice you're entered in the current contest... you should set this kind of post up in the right format as an extra entry to the contest!
    DaveO
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  3. #3

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    Wow, that is a hell of a hole to repair. I've seen brazing done to holes like that, but I don't think I have ever seen something like that tig welded. From the pics it doesn't look like it, but did you preheat at all?
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  4. #4
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    Amazing!! I've had success stick welding an exhaust manifole while it was still on the truck using 7018, and just "stirring" the puddle. I believe it was a 1 in a million shot, but there was no collaetral damage, and the weld held for YEARS, until the truck was sold (1974 Ford LNT880 dump truck with a 477 gasser). I'd like to know the setup there preheat, electrode, dc or ac, etc. Looks like a beautiful repair. Jody mentioned something about using brass rod and AC TIG, But this looks like the ticket here.
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  5. #5
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    What kind of engine was it that it was rare enough to warrant this type of repair instead of just replacing the block?
    Brad George
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  6. #6

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    Well, it's a deep skirt block, but doesn't look like a mopar, maybe a Ford FE series or similar? S/F....Ken M
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  7. #7

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    My final answer is gonna be a Merc Cruiser.
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  8. #8
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    Don't know what motor it is just a job. CONTEST Canadian have problem in contest
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveO View Post
    You're quick with the camera- looks like a curl of smoke in the last photo. How did you clean and prep? What kind of vehicle is the engine out of?

    If you don't mind me suggesting, I notice you're entered in the current contest... you should set this kind of post up in the right format as an extra entry to the contest!

  9. #9
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    I did not preheat just weld it hope for the best Cronatron said just weld it.

    Quote Originally Posted by sportbike View Post
    Wow, that is a hell of a hole to repair. I've seen brazing done to holes like that, but I don't think I have ever seen something like that tig welded. From the pics it doesn't look like it, but did you preheat at all?

  10. #10
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    They pay I weld don't ask questions I think it was a Land Rover engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by blasphemy000 View Post
    What kind of engine was it that it was rare enough to warrant this type of repair instead of just replacing the block?

  11. #11
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    Used Merc Cruiser exhaust manifold to patch hole.
    Quote Originally Posted by zedron View Post
    My final answer is gonna be a Merc Cruiser.

  12. #12
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    Nice repair. It sounds and looks like a low expansion, high nickel content rod. Any nickel-iron allloy where the nickel reaches or exceeds mid 30's %, the low expansion "magic" starts to happen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Invar

    I've had good results with it as well (a 55% nickel / 45% iron stick electrode, with the flux knocked off, and applied via TIG), but sometimes the cast iron can get a little cruddy. Interested in hearing how you prepped the cast iron because you got a nice result.

    Did you weld both sides one pass each (2 passes total)? Or try to it is in 1 pass? Did you manage 1 continuous weld bead or did you beak it up? Did you skip around or "stitch weld"?
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kempy View Post
    CONTEST Canadian have problem in contest
    The contest is open to Canadians, you just have to pay shipping and required duty on whatever you purchase with your winnings.
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  14. #14
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    Welded continuous just tacked it and then started welding.
    Quote Originally Posted by jakeru View Post
    Nice repair. It sounds and looks like a low expansion, high nickel content rod. Any nickel-iron allloy where the nickel reaches or exceeds mid 30's %, the low expansion "magic" starts to happen: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Invar

    I've had good results with it as well (a 55% nickel / 45% iron stick electrode, with the flux knocked off, and applied via TIG), but sometimes the cast iron can get a little cruddy. Interested in hearing how you prepped the cast iron because you got a nice result.

    Did you weld both sides one pass each (2 passes total)? Or try to it is in 1 pass? Did you manage 1 continuous weld bead or did you beak it up? Did you skip around or "stitch weld"?

  15. Default

    I would be surprised if the iron doesn't crack right next to the weld once it gets back in operation.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGary View Post
    I would be surprised if the iron doesn't crack right next to the weld once it gets back in operation.
    Well it has been a few years now and it is still not leaking the motor is working just fine so far. I have done a Ford Powerstroke 7.3L and it was on a work truck and is still working over 5 years now, it cracked from water freezing in the block winter came to fast and they forgot to put the antifreeze in it, it had a hose leak so they just keep putting water in it.
    Last edited by Kempy; 10-23-2013 at 02:15 PM. Reason: ADD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kempy View Post
    Well it has been a few years now and it is still not leaking the motor is working just fine so far. I have done a Ford Powerstroke 7.3L and it was on a work truck and is still working over 5 years now, it cracked from water freezing in the block winter came to fast and they forgot to put the antifreeze in it, it had a hose leak so they just keep putting water in it.
    OK, then I am wrong. You must be doing something right That others have not. I have seen many block repairs that have not held very long. I would not weld


    blocks because it just is not worth it for someone to put all the work into the engine then have it leak again where it is welded. It may work 9 times out of 10 but one customer with a failure would cost me much more than I would make on welding blocks. I guess if it was mine I might try it, depending on how much work it would be if it did happen to fail.

    I have never heard of cronatron before. I just went to there web site. Wow are the expensive. I thought Eutectic was expensive . 50 lbs of E7018 for over $300. Your cast tig rod is over $350 for 2 lbs. I find it hard to believe they have something worth that kind of expense that can not be purchased from someone else for less. I would say they just repackage and resell and not make any of there own products.
    Last edited by TheGary; 10-23-2013 at 05:57 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGary View Post
    OK, then I am wrong. You must be doing something right That others have not. I have seen many block repairs that have not held very long. I would not weld


    blocks because it just is not worth it for someone to put all the work into the engine then have it leak again where it is welded. It may work 9 times out of 10 but one customer with a failure would cost me much more than I would make on welding blocks. I guess if it was mine I might try it, depending on how much work it would be if it did happen to fail.

    I have never heard of cronatron before. I just went to there web site. Wow are the expensive. I thought Eutectic was expensive . 50 lbs of E7018 for over $300. Your cast tig rod is over $350 for 2 lbs. I find it hard to believe they have something worth that kind of expense that can not be purchased from someone else for less. I would say they just repackage and resell and not make any of there own products.
    Yes the Cronatron cast iron Tig rod was expensive but it has done the job more then once. I have used some of there other products also. They do have thing that no other companies have and it is expensive but it dose work and they stand by their products.
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