
Originally Posted by
Trip59
So I should have gapped the joint, rather than just beveling and fixing with no gap? But what about the filler balling before I can get it close enough, bigger filler?
The gap will let you see that you are getting all the way through. Without a gap, if the lands are thin enough, you can just melt through with a little more power, but you will not be able to tell that you got full penetration unless you inspect from the other side. By having a gap and being able to see the inner walls breakdown, you know you are all the way just from what you see on the outside.
As far as the filler balling up, there are so many things that can cause that, too small for the amount of power, holding the rod too close to the arc while waiting to dip, torch angle and direction, travel speed, and probably more that I'm forgetting. Ideally you want to keep the rod inside the argon cone, but away from the arc, you can also rest it on the base metal between dips to help draw some heat out, then sorta scoot it into the puddle as needed. Mostly it just takes practice to read what is going on and make adjustments. I would say that for your edge welds, 1/16 is about as big as you would want to go. .040" might be a little better. For a 13 year break, it looks like it's coming back pretty fast. By the time you got to that third bead, it looks like you pretty much have it down.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!