New 250P problems

[performance]

Most of the time it will, and perhaps, conditions were just right when he was using it. But true duty cycle is figured at 40 degrees Celsius. And heat dissapation rates are affected by the temperature, and humidity. But the heat must transfer from the IGBT to the aluminum. The heat transfers out of the aluminum faster than it does from the igbt, so theoretically, the igbt and other components could still be hotter than it should and the exact position of the heat detector may stay cooler, since it is away from the other end somewhat. At this point I am postulating why the thermal would not trip. But when it comes to inverters, constantly running a unit against its duty cycle is not recommended because of the cumulative damage/wear done to the electronics. A transformer can be run up to the duty cycle, and other than melting out some solder, little is there that can break...so the effect is not as bad.

[balleman3]

yea as soon as it started to puddle i was on the move fast and I’m used to tiging as fast as the power I have on tap will let me, done a lot of aluminum in the past. sometimes after running for awhile it seemed like the amperage would start to drop off on its own toward the end of the weld I thought it was my imagination but now I think I was overdoing it, I just figured it would cut itself off if I hit the duty cycle like my transformer unit. I only welded one flat at a time so most of the amperage was expended on getting thing up to temp the air temp was in the 60's and machine was outside
on a side note
is my 250p supposed to have a - symbol in front of the amperage display the lcd shows -250 is that correct? could the plug be wired wrong, It is not welding good at all, like the polarity is wrong, same with the spoolgun

[zoama]

is my 250p supposed to have a - symbol in front of the amperage display the lcd shows -250 is that correct?

Mine does the same.

[performance]

yea as soon as it started to puddle i was on the move fast and I’m used to tiging as fast as the power I have on tap will let me, done a lot of aluminum in the past. sometimes after running for awhile it seemed like the amperage would start to drop off on its own toward the end of the weld I thought it was my imagination but now I think I was overdoing it, I just figured it would cut itself off if I hit the duty cycle like my transformer unit. I only welded one flat at a time so most of the amperage was expended on getting thing up to temp the air temp was in the 60's and machine was outside
on a side note
is my 250p supposed to have a - symbol in front of the amperage display the lcd shows -250 is that correct? could the plug be wired wrong, It is not welding good at all, like the polarity is wrong, same with the spoolgun

No that shows it is reading relative wire speed. It will change to amps once it starts to weld.

Are you using pulse? Don't until you know how to set up the MIG without it.
What wire diameter are you using? Do you have the work clamp in the negative, or rather, work? Which groove are you using on the drive roll? What wire type, gas type, and gas flow rate are you using?

[balleman3]

clamp in (work) - pulse seems to help on flat surfaces but no not using it now trying to get it to weld proper without first. tried

Steel %75ar-%25co2 .035 1/8-1/2 in thickness all kinds of combinations of V and amperage always starting with the recommended settings and slowly moved around from there.

Aluminum %100 ar spoolgun .8mm wire .090-1/4 in thickness all kinds of settings and thicknesses always starting with recommended, same result piles up on the surface or jumps to spray arc and melts to a ball 1/4 away from work and flows with gravity from there only looks good on flat steel cant really put it where you want it
I have worked as a mig welder in the past so I have experience adjusting mig machines, also used to build aluminum awnings for another company using a spool gun everyday
I still have to put the tie bar in for the awning caves I really dont want to have to tig weld the 125ft of 3/4 by .090 aluminum square tubing thats what I bought the mig for
is there any way to adjust the wire speed without messing with the amps?

[Rambozo]

clamp in (work) - pulse seems to help on flat surfaces but no not using it now trying to get it to weld proper without first. tried

Steel %75ar-%25co2 .035 1/8-1/2 in thickness all kinds of combinations of V and amperage always starting with the recommended settings and slowly moved around from there.

Aluminum %100 ar spoolgun .8mm wire .090-1/4 in thickness all kinds of settings and thicknesses always starting with recommended, same result piles up on the surface or jumps to spray arc and melts to a ball 1/4 away from work and flows with gravity from there only looks good on flat steel cant really put it where you want it
I have worked as a mig welder in the past so I have experience adjusting mig machines, also used to build aluminum awnings for another company using a spool gun everyday
I still have to put the tie bar in for the awning caves I really dont want to have to tig weld the 125ft of 3/4 by .090 aluminum square tubing thats what I bought the mig for
is there any way to adjust the wire speed without messing with the amps?

It almost looks like you might be sucking air into the gas line from somewhere. Maybe do a through check for leaks, end to end, especially inside the MIG gun, if you haven't already.
MIG is CV, all the machine sets is voltage, amps are drawn based on wire speed and arc length, it will deliver whatever is required to maintain the voltage you set, until it maxes out.

[performance]

clamp in (work) - pulse seems to help on flat surfaces but no not using it now trying to get it to weld proper without first. tried

Steel %75ar-%25co2 .035 1/8-1/2 in thickness all kinds of combinations of V and amperage always starting with the recommended settings and slowly moved around from there.

Aluminum %100 ar spoolgun .8mm wire .090-1/4 in thickness all kinds of settings and thicknesses always starting with recommended, same result piles up on the surface or jumps to spray arc and melts to a ball 1/4 away from work and flows with gravity from there only looks good on flat steel cant really put it where you want it
I have worked as a mig welder in the past so I have experience adjusting mig machines, also used to build aluminum awnings for another company using a spool gun everyday
I still have to put the tie bar in for the awning caves I really dont want to have to tig weld the 125ft of 3/4 by .090 aluminum square tubing thats what I bought the mig for
is there any way to adjust the wire speed without messing with the amps?

I don't mean to sound harsh, but it sounds as if you need some instruction in MIG, because wire speed and amps is the same thing...you cannot divorce the two EVER...not in true mig. Where is your arc force set? What settings are you using? Again, which drive roll are you using for the steel? And how are you controlling wire speed on your spool gun?

AND Pulse in MIG is designed for spray.

[performance]

Also what I see is a shielding gas problem. What is your gas flow rate?

[balleman3]

Tried arc force in all positions but usually start on 50%. gas flow rate 25cfm 75%-25%co2 on steel with the mig gun, same with argon on the spool gun. I am using the .8 drive rollers that cam in the machine for .035 wire. sorry about the confusion on CC and CV I was just used to adjusting the wire speed at spool gun it has been a few years since I worked as a mig welder, had a brain fart but I never had a problem before adjusting a mig machine just went with the recommended settings and adjusted from there I have a lot of time on a mig and can lay a good bead in all positions but something is definitely way off here

same result globular transfer piles up on the surface with no penetration or jumps to spray arc and melts to a ball 1/4 away from work with no control

[Rambozo]

Is there a possibility that the duty cycle heat sensor is faulty?