First day running my 200DX... some ups and some downs (tech support needed too)

[Trip59]

Had it set that high so I could adjust the flow. I did hit it and hold it there for longer than 5, still no HF. I'll try again tomorrow with it turned down.

The 200DX really can't do AC stick?

[performance]

It defaults to DC last I knew.

[bswinn]

Hi there Trip59.

I'm also a new 200DX user. I have not used the machine in stick mode (not a fan of stick since I suck at it) so I'm unsure of your issues here. Also, I haven't experienced anything wrong on the HF start. I would say to double check, then check again, the position of the start mode switch on the front panel. I know from experience how difficult it is sometimes to discern what position the switch is in.

The display going to 011 I believe I'm familiar with since it happens to my machine too. From my understanding of reading through the forums...ignore the amperage display while the torch is putting out juice, it's useless (bit of a downer there).

[Trip59]

Ok, so nice full day of running the machine.

Started out working on my cart only to have my MIG short out (sheath slipped down a bit) arc'd the liner to ground and melted the gas line.

DC+ on the 200DX with 6011 smoothed out a bit after I got used to it, unfortunately, I was running the wrong size for what I was doing, so it's ugly as sin, but worked it out and was able to finish the project. Too much leftover paint to TIG, so I burned through the crap and just finished it up.

TIG, the knob must have gotten bumped, preflow was set to max, which is around 10 it seems, so counting past 5 wouldn't have it start, though it would strike and run at that point. I brought pre-flow down as suggested but it was too big a blast. Somewhere around 2 worked great.

Had to mess with the sensitivity on my new helmet a bit, I'm happy with it though, Hobart variable shade w/grind mode. Max sensitivity had it going dark with sunlight. Oddly, I liked this, I was able to use my hand to block it momentarily to see, then move my hand and weld. Once I got it dialed in, it became my favorite helmet. Easy adjustment knob on the outside.

Now, I noticed that when I let off the pedal or switch, EVERY TIME, the display would momentarily say 011.

Next weekend should have some more hood time, I want to try out the pulse function.

[Rambozo]

One TIG tip you might find useful. Since the argon blast at startup can mess things up, (shorter, smaller, less soft hose between the tank and machine will really help that) and waiting for the arc just feels odd, here is what I have always done. Set the preflow to zero and the post flow to normal for the size tungsten and power you are using, typically 5-10 seconds. Then right before you start a weld keep the torch away from the material by about an inch and just tap the button or pedal for an instant. This will start the postflow timer. Now you can get right into position while the gas is stabilizing and then when you hit the button or pedal, the arc will start right away and since the postflow was still going, it will be a super clean start at the exact moment you hit the switch. I find this a much more exacting way to start and I just do it out of habit now. For me knowing right when the arc will start gives me much more control, especially in tight places or when I'm all out of position to get to something.

[Trip59]

One TIG tip you might find useful. Since the argon blast at startup can mess things up, (shorter, smaller, less soft hose between the tank and machine will really help that) and waiting for the arc just feels odd, here is what I have always done. Set the preflow to zero and the post flow to normal for the size tungsten and power you are using, typically 5-10 seconds. Then right before you start a weld keep the torch away from the material by about an inch and just tap the button or pedal for an instant. This will start the postflow timer. Now you can get right into position while the gas is stabilizing and then when you hit the button or pedal, the arc will start right away and since the postflow was still going, it will be a super clean start at the exact moment you hit the switch. I find this a much more exacting way to start and I just do it out of habit now. For me knowing right when the arc will start gives me much more control, especially in tight places or when I'm all out of position to get to something.

Took all the advice, I changed the hose out to a much thicker, reinforced hose I had (about twice as thick wall) shortened it to about 14" and it improved dramatically, almost no blast. I also did as you said, set pre to the lowest and tap the pedal. BTW, the 200DX will throw a near 2" spark, so I rotate it to point up, hit it, rotate it back to the work and then go.

I also started knocking the needle point off the tungsten, just a very minor flat, helped it out a bit, though the arc went ape#### a couple times due to, I'm guessing, spots on the metal that wanted the arc more then where I wanted it. it jumped into the tube when I was trying to edge weld, hit the ridge from the tube's weld.

Getting in my 3/32 tungsten and assortment of fillers this week, will be spending time tomorrow, Thurs and Fri practicing up. Got my first paying TIG gig Saturday (that coolant line I've mentioned a few times. Going to replicate the joint on regular steel exhaust a couple times, then a practice on SS and if it feels, looks right, I'll do the final one. Same with the surface bead.

[SeanMurphy265]

Keep up with what you charge fig welding because you can loose money quick! I have two 80 cf tanks and I can run through one pretty quick, at $40.00 a tank! My first paid tight job was a riveted aluminum boat and I lost my butt on that piece of crap.