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Thread: Project 4 SeanMurphy265 Almost Summer, Parking lot bollards

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  1. #1

    Default Project 4 SeanMurphy265 Almost Summer, Parking lot bollards

    Here are some bollards I made for this job I finished last Thursday. These bollards are made from 6" schedule 40 pipe, and welded onto a 1/2" 8"x8" plate with 4 5/8" holes. They were anchored inside protecting a cooler and a piece of electrical equipment. I welded these with my power arc 140st.








    They were painted safety yellow, and had covers placed over them.

    Lincoln Eagle Engine Drive
    Everlast MTS 250
    Everlast Power Tig 225lx
    HTP Mig 2400
    Everlast Power Plasma 60C --> Just need to finish my CNC Plasma Table!
    Miller Spectrum 375 Extreme Plasma cutter
    Victor cutting torch
    HF 20 Ton Shop Press
    HF 4x6 Band Saw
    HF Air Compressor
    Northern Tool Drill Press


    www.murphywelding.com

  2. #2

    Default

    These were outside bollards made from 6" schedule 40 pipe. They are 7' long and 3' deep in concrete. The 7' of pipe is also filled with concrete. I hate concrete, and now I hate concrete even more!



    This is a lift so they can unload their trucks.




    These were also painted safety yellow. The parking lot is on a slope, and that's what is making the bollards look bad. The bollards are level, but they would look better if they leaned with the lift.
    Lincoln Eagle Engine Drive
    Everlast MTS 250
    Everlast Power Tig 225lx
    HTP Mig 2400
    Everlast Power Plasma 60C --> Just need to finish my CNC Plasma Table!
    Miller Spectrum 375 Extreme Plasma cutter
    Victor cutting torch
    HF 20 Ton Shop Press
    HF 4x6 Band Saw
    HF Air Compressor
    Northern Tool Drill Press


    www.murphywelding.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Middleburg Florida
    Posts
    556

    Default

    Are the tops just open with concrete in them or are you going to cap them? I ask because I'm curious if welding caps on a concrete filled pipe has the same issues as welding a cylinder shut, pressure and whatnot.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Trip59 View Post
    Are the tops just open with concrete in them or are you going to cap them? I ask because I'm curious if welding caps on a concrete filled pipe has the same issues as welding a cylinder shut, pressure and whatnot.
    i see a couple of cans of spray in the background. you would get better coverage using rustoleum safety yellow and a brush or roller. i wouldn't even prime them unless they had to be delivered primed and then painted by others.

    filling the tubes with concrete is a pain, i agree. if you are going to do more of this type of work be aware of the notation CFT on prints involving structures made of steel tube, sq or round. it is a common procedure these days. CFT = concrete filled tube.

    not picking on your stuff guy, it's just that you are one of the few doing real work.

    just a suggestion good luck.
    Last edited by fdcmiami; 10-15-2012 at 09:27 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Middleburg Florida
    Posts
    556

    Default

    What kind of paint is Rustoleum safety now, still a real enamel or some new formulation? We used to use that stuff by the gallon on lifts and shop areas when I was a pro wrench, always brushed it right on degreased steel, worked great, covered good and was tough as hell once you let it fully cure.
    Trip Bauer
    Former USN HT
    Everlast 200DX New Model
    Hobart Handler 125 MIG
    Van Norman #12
    Atlas 12" engine lathe
    '98 RoadKing - 84 Ironhead - 59 Ironhead

  6. Default

    don't want to hijack this thread. here's a link to the rusto.

    http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=130

    i don't think there's anything better off of the shelf. spray, brush or roll.

    i am suprised that the two bollards that went into the ground were not painted beforehand. also, regarding the concrete in the tube, since you can have shrinkage it is a good idea to come back and check and possibly throw some quick setting something or other in there to make the top of the tube proud if you are not going to cap it. i see this all the time with rail installers and quickset. they don't come back and deal with the shrinkage, water collects and before long if your posts are steel they rust out from sitting water.

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