Project 4 SeanMurphy265 Almost Summer, Parking lot bollards

[SeanMurphy265]

Here are some bollards I made for this job I finished last Thursday. These bollards are made from 6" schedule 40 pipe, and welded onto a 1/2" 8"x8" plate with 4 5/8" holes. They were anchored inside protecting a cooler and a piece of electrical equipment. I welded these with my power arc 140st.








They were painted safety yellow, and had covers placed over them.

[SeanMurphy265]

These were outside bollards made from 6" schedule 40 pipe. They are 7' long and 3' deep in concrete. The 7' of pipe is also filled with concrete. I hate concrete, and now I hate concrete even more!



This is a lift so they can unload their trucks.




These were also painted safety yellow. The parking lot is on a slope, and that's what is making the bollards look bad. The bollards are level, but they would look better if they leaned with the lift.

[Trip59]

Are the tops just open with concrete in them or are you going to cap them? I ask because I'm curious if welding caps on a concrete filled pipe has the same issues as welding a cylinder shut, pressure and whatnot.

[fdcmiami]

Are the tops just open with concrete in them or are you going to cap them? I ask because I'm curious if welding caps on a concrete filled pipe has the same issues as welding a cylinder shut, pressure and whatnot.

i see a couple of cans of spray in the background. you would get better coverage using rustoleum safety yellow and a brush or roller. i wouldn't even prime them unless they had to be delivered primed and then painted by others.

filling the tubes with concrete is a pain, i agree. if you are going to do more of this type of work be aware of the notation CFT on prints involving structures made of steel tube, sq or round. it is a common procedure these days. CFT = concrete filled tube.

not picking on your stuff guy, it's just that you are one of the few doing real work.

just a suggestion good luck.

[Trip59]

What kind of paint is Rustoleum safety now, still a real enamel or some new formulation? We used to use that stuff by the gallon on lifts and shop areas when I was a pro wrench, always brushed it right on degreased steel, worked great, covered good and was tough as hell once you let it fully cure.

[fdcmiami]

don't want to hijack this thread. here's a link to the rusto.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=130

i don't think there's anything better off of the shelf. spray, brush or roll.

i am suprised that the two bollards that went into the ground were not painted beforehand. also, regarding the concrete in the tube, since you can have shrinkage it is a good idea to come back and check and possibly throw some quick setting something or other in there to make the top of the tube proud if you are not going to cap it. i see this all the time with rail installers and quickset. they don't come back and deal with the shrinkage, water collects and before long if your posts are steel they rust out from sitting water.

[everlastsupport]

How did you cut the two caps (freehand/CNC/Plasma/O/A)? Not sure why but we always paint them red.

[Rambozo]

If you want a super smooth finish, give this stuff a try. It will make a rough casting look polished. I've painted a number of machines and equipment with it, and I don't think there is any solvent that attacks it, once cured and it's tough on impacts and abrasion, too.

http://www.prattandlambert.com/produ...d_mastic_epoxy

[everlastsupport]

Sounds like POR-15 Stuff is great, OK colors. The silver is a pain in the tail, it gets black streaks in it unless you stir and spray fast..

Pratt&Lambert something you can pickup local?

[SeanMurphy265]

The pipes are full of concrete, I had to add a little more concrete to round off the tops. The inside ones have weld on caps, but also have the nice plastic covers.

[SeanMurphy265]

don't want to hijack this thread. here's a link to the rusto.

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=130

i don't think there's anything better off of the shelf. spray, brush or roll.

i am suprised that the two bollards that went into the ground were not painted beforehand. also, regarding the concrete in the tube, since you can have shrinkage it is a good idea to come back and check and possibly throw some quick setting something or other in there to make the top of the tube proud if you are not going to cap it. i see this all the time with rail installers and quickset. they don't come back and deal with the shrinkage, water collects and before long if your posts are steel they rust out from sitting water.

That is the paint that I used to finish out the bollards. I sprayed it with a paint gun. The paint mixes with acetone and sprays very good, especially for someone who is not a good painter.

The pipes could not be pre-painted. They wanted them set in the concrete and then painted. It was done according to their specifications not mine. I would have at least put a good coat of primer before setting them in concrete. I guess they felt that it did not matter since the inside of the pipe was filled with concrete.

[SeanMurphy265]

How did you cut the two caps (freehand/CNC/Plasma/O/A)? Not sure why but we always paint them red.

They had to have a dome cap on top. They told me that after I thought I had finished them!
http://www.kingmetals.com/Catalog/It...temNumber=6136

[Rambozo]

...They told me that after I thought I had finished them!...

Sounds like this job had a lot of that.

[SeanMurphy265]

I built this door frame from 8" channel from the local steel supply.


I should have built it from this stuff... It was a learning experience...
http://www.primebldg.com/product/channel-iron/

[jameslo]

If you want a super smooth finish, give this stuff a try. It will make a rough casting look polished. I've painted a number of machines and equipment with it, and I don't think there is any solvent that attacks it, once cured and it's tough on impacts and abrasion, too.

http://www.prattandlambert.com/produ...d_mastic_epoxy

I'm going to have to try that.