
Originally Posted by
cbmkr
The biggest problem is the compressor heats the air and it cools in the tank and condensates , if you are moving a lot of air constantly the heated air will exit the compressor into the lines .I have a 25' loop built on the wall with a drain tap to let the air coming out of the compressor cool and condensate so it can be drained also.I use the Ingersol automatic drain on the bottom of the compressor it does a good and you get used to it going off after a while. I also use a very good filter after the tank and loop before the air goes to the lines in the shop. I have also used an A coil from an AC unit with a filter as a drier at a dedicated spot before a machine hookup it actually does a good job cooling the air and pulling the moisture out. It has worked great for years with no moisture problems at all.
Yep. I've seen that done on many compressors using an automotive A/C condenser to cool down the air and squeeze the moisture out of it. Sort of like an intercooler for a turbo to get more air squeezed into the cylinders. I was thinking of doing something like that but decided that being able to move it around easily and being simple as it is, the Franzinator costs less to make and it really does work well.
I was refinishing a door today and was doing some spray painting. It was humid with temps in the mid 70's. The Franzinator did a great job of keeping the air dry as my line filter was totally dry and the painting went great without any moisture and oil problems like fisheyes. I then had to cut some 5/16 plate and the Powerplasma 50 cut it so nice and easy. way better than before without the Franzinator.
I have to thank Franz© for the information and ideas on how to build this contraption that really works.
Powertig 250EX
Powerplasma 50
Hobart Handler 210 with spoolgun
Cobra 2000 / Henrob O/A torch
Drill press / metal brake / 36 ton air hydraulic press
Franzinated modified Craftsman 33 compressor
Lots of other metal working tools