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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Whine Country, California
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    I've tried welding copper scraps in the past, and I tried again several months back when I first got my Everlast tig, but it has always been hit or miss for me. The really clean copper flat bar welded great with romex wire, but I have also had trouble welding (what I thought was clean copper) with romex.

    My little 160STH was pretty much maxed out on a few of the beads that didn't weld so good, but I was able to back off on the heat with the clean copper and gain control of the puddle. I prepped my copper like I normally prep aluminum (a quick wipe with acetone, followed up with a clean rag). I thought that was enough, but maybe not?
    Andy
    New Everlast PowerTig 250EX that is begging for me to come up with a few welding projects so it can stretch it's legs. Did someone say aluminum???

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  2. #2

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    That's neat and really simple! What setting do you use to weld copper? (DCEN, DECP or AC?)
    Owner/Operator of Breakneckmoto
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Whine Country, California
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    Straight polarity (DCEN). It will take a good amount of heat (amps) to get your bead started, but once you do, it won't take near as much to keep the puddle liquified. As with welding aluminum, cleanliness is the key. Obviously you'll need smaller diameter filler rod and a thinner piece of copper if your welder is of limited capacity like my 160STH is.
    Andy
    New Everlast PowerTig 250EX that is begging for me to come up with a few welding projects so it can stretch it's legs. Did someone say aluminum???

    MISC. TOOLS:
    Atlas 618 lathe
    Milwaukee Porta Band with custom made stand
    Dewalt 4-1/2" angle grinder
    Dewalt 14" chop saw

    Strong Hand Nomad portable table
    Juki sewing machine I've had for years (yes I know sewing is for girls)

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