Picture 5 of 6 was better. 4 of 6 way too much filler and moving too slow. Run a #7 cup and 8CFH
Picture 5 of 6 was better. 4 of 6 way too much filler and moving too slow. Run a #7 cup and 8CFH
Mike R.
Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
www.everlastgenerators.com
www.everlastwelders.com
877-755-9353 x203
M-F 12 - 7PM PST
FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.
Picture #4 was the first weld of the 8. Picture #5 was the 7th weld. The biggest cup I have right now is a #6. I will be ordering more consumables soon as the LWS here is a lot higher... I had to buy a collet body for the 1/16 tungsten @ 4.25 and a collet for the 3/32 @ 2.00, for some odd reason the kit that came with my PA140ST had a 3/32 collet body (but no 3/32 collet) and 2 1/16 collets but no body.
Everlast PowerTig 200DX
Everlast Supercut 50P
I need a MIG.... which one to buy:
I-Mig 160, I-Mig 200, or a MTS 160
With no arc and no helmet, practice getting a good prop with your hand and moving the torch along keeping the tungsten point at the exact same height over the material. Sometimes finding just the right prop height can make a world of difference. I keep a bunch of small wood blocks on my welding table just to prop on. They insulate you from the heat and even on flat material 3/4" under my hand makes me so much more stable and smooth. and on things like an inch or so tall a chunk of flat 2x4 is a great prop. I know there is a Miller video on YouTube about hand position. You can search that. Thin flexible gloves help a lot. Don't skimp there, Tillman are some of the best and they make 11 different styles of just TIG gloves. Be sure your helmet is set to high sensitivity and crank the delay up to help cover moments where the arc cuts out for a split second (like when you dip the puddle) and that should help.
Last edited by Rambozo; 09-03-2012 at 03:07 AM.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
The Tillman gloves look nice. I tried a pair of Hobart premium TIG gloves on at TSC and they fit fairly well. How do they compair to the Tillman gloves? Anyone know what size they would be? I was thinking of ordering some Tillman gloves off ebay but I dont know what size I ould need....
Everlast PowerTig 200DX
Everlast Supercut 50P
I need a MIG.... which one to buy:
I-Mig 160, I-Mig 200, or a MTS 160
I would advise checking at your LWS. There are so many sizes and styles. Glove fit is a unique thing, but being leather they will mold to your hands with use. Some have the fingers sewn differently and that makes a big difference in feel. I don't think any are made with Bates type curved fingers, but they sorta feel that way. I've never tried the Hobart gloves so I can't make any comparison. I have tried Black Stallion, which look like a Tillman knock-off, and they are not bad, but no where near as comfortable and compliant, so I use them mostly for things that might mess up my gloves. The Tillman's I like are dearskin, but they also have goatskin, pigskin, and kidskin, with both long and short cuffs.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
Tillman 25A's are what we like (25AL Large; deerskin). It is like no glove on at all (no other jokes here please). They were $8 at PraxAir, now $10 a pair (ticks me off, but to be honest, dirt cheap even at $10). And HF has gloves they think are worth $10 for MIG hahahaha.
So for $10, take Ram's advice and get Tillman. You can get the leather ones for MIG and TIG, but I find the 25 series is beyond great for TIG and in a pinch you can MIG with them if you are quick to let things go fast![]()
Great glove, bar none. Just wish they were not white. Clean until the first use. I should take a picture of my sons for fun.
I might have to try the BS version if they're black. Seen there jackets and they look good.
Mike R.
Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
www.everlastgenerators.com
www.everlastwelders.com
877-755-9353 x203
M-F 12 - 7PM PST
FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.
Tillman has a new premium TIG glove that is black, but I haven't tried them.
http://jtillman.com/products/gloves/tig/44/
By the time the white ones turn black, it's about time to replace them. I can always tell my newest pair from the older ones by the color.
BTW: A is for short cuff, not Adult. B is long cuff. But when you go to kidskin, D is the short cuff and C is the long, go figure.
Last edited by Rambozo; 09-03-2012 at 11:35 PM.
Long arc, short arc, heliarc and in-the-dark!
I ordered a pair of 44's and a pair of 25A's as well. Also picked up a pair of miller safety shades with #5 lens for when I get my plasma cutter and also a miller LPR-100. I have enough breathing problems... don't want to make things any worse breathing all those nasty fumes.
Everlast PowerTig 200DX
Everlast Supercut 50P
I need a MIG.... which one to buy:
I-Mig 160, I-Mig 200, or a MTS 160
Mike R.
Email: admineverlast@everlastwelders.com
www.everlastgenerators.com
www.everlastwelders.com
877-755-9353 x203
M-F 12 - 7PM PST
FYI: PP50, PP80, IMIG-200, IMIG-250P, 210EXT and 255EXT.
My order came in today. I really like the look and fit of the 44's however the 25's feel better.... But do not fit as well. I probably could have went with a size smaller in both... Not so much the 44's but definatly in the 25's. From the fill of the material, I am guessing the 44's will outlast the 25's.
Everlast PowerTig 200DX
Everlast Supercut 50P
I need a MIG.... which one to buy:
I-Mig 160, I-Mig 200, or a MTS 160