250EX very strange welding, was I given something other than pure argon??

[performance]

IF a water cooled torch gets hot in your hands, it's too late...and the damage is done. The milky halo is likely for oxygen getting into the weld.

[Rambozo]

Is the Everlast torch some kind of exception, I have always been under the impression that you never use a water cooled torch without water, period? I know the CK fuse block is set to burn up somewhere around 6 amps without water, and WeldCraft torches and cables say to never run dry. From what I've seen it's more damage to the cable that happens first, before the torch.

EDIT: I answered my own question. From the manual:

"The LX and EX units both come
with a standard water cooled torch, which will
operate up to 160 amps as an air-cooled torch.
However, considerable duty cycle will be lost
when operated with air cooling only with the
water cooled torch."

I guess it comes down to the "considerable" loss of duty cycle. I know this manual is several years old, and perhaps there is a better warning in the newer ones, but it seems like these should either come with air cooled torches, or a much more specific warning about the use of water cooling and duty cycles for specific amperages.

[performance]

We stated that due to the torch suppliers original statement, but I believe it was a typo or misunderstanding.

[everlastsupport]

I run mine all the time under 120 amps and never had a problem. And because our site said it could be done. I will make note of the change, but I have done this for years (WP18 and 20). Never burnt one up yet.

[Gandalf]

Is there any way to inspect the torch? Is there a likely component that will be first to go? It likely isn't a solder-spot inside, it must have to do with a heat-distortion somewhere, allowing air in... or is this an incorrect assumption? A solder-spot would result in non-function of the switch, or some electrical failure.

I'll go and swap the tank this AM... I only used it for 10 minutes anyway, I think they'll help me out. That will narrow things down.

Also, to answer another earlier question: Yes, if I shut off the tank valve, the pressure gauge shows pressure, and holds it, meaning that there is no leak between the tank and the welder, and the welder itself still has good seal integrity. If there is a leak, it is on the torchline or in the torch.

Honestly, I am surprised, the operation thus far has been so consistent, forgiving (I can really play with the settings and there is a wide range of acceptable operation, including argon flow) and at times set-it-and-forget-it (turn it on and go, day-to-day)...

[performance]

Actually the melted solder is a real possiblity, as I have encountered the solder issue with customers before. It isn't the switch I am talking about, but the soldering of the copper tubing to the head, and the fittings to the tubing.

[everlastsupport]

I recall one way back too (solder issue in the torch handle). Also, maybe switch to the short cap and a different size collet and tungsten to make sure all the torch parts are mating up.

[Gandalf]

Actually the melted solder is a real possiblity, as I have encountered the solder issue with customers before. It isn't the switch I am talking about, but the soldering of the copper tubing to the head, and the fittings to the tubing.

Understood.