New PP 205 Asking for help w/Aluminum...

[Rambozo]

Here are a couple of basic gas tests. If you have the ball type flowmeter, make sure it goes to zero once the post flow stops, if not you have a big leak. Then turn off the bottle. If the pressure gauge goes down, you have a small leak.

Basic aluminum settings with foot pedal, top to bottom left to right:
Pulse switch OFF, ignore blue knobs
Amps 200, Arc force 1, AC freq. 100 Hz, Balance 30%, Switches AC, 2T, TIG (HF)
Preflow 1, Postflow 10, Upslope 0, Downslope 0, Start Amps 5, End Amps 5

Argon set to around 8-10 lpm or 16-20 cfh

Hold tungsten about .060" off the metal and hit the pedal, for 1/8" plate, you will need about half pedal to start to form a puddle. It will take a little time about 5 seconds or so in one place, before you can begin to move.

Some of your plates didn't look too clean. Try new material first if you can. If there is corrosion, or chemicals that have permeated the plate, forget about welding it. All the wire brushing in the world won't help.

[Ray C]

Much thanks. I gave it a shot. The erratic buzzing went away but still no puddle. On the piece of 1/8", at the end of 5 seconds, it blew half thru the piece and the tip was mostly gone. The stock is all factory fresh drops from an aluminum distributor, end pieces from virgin material that have never been touched.

The video is up now. BTW: I'm holding the tip about where you say but after 4 hours of this, steadiness is going out the window.

[zoama]

Try holding the torch like a pencil, finger on top for the switch if using it. It takes a little longer to puddle thick aluminum. Your arc sounds fine, the variation in sound is from you moving it up and down. The arc will sound more like a tazer as you pull it away from your work... the other guys that are helping you have much more experience than me so I'll leave them to it. Keep practicing.
Use the little film strip icon to add your video directly to the post.

[Ray C]

I'll do some clean-up, watch the videos (probably better than the ones I've seen), take the dog for a walk to get my head back on straight and try again tomorrow. At the moment, I'm brain fried. Everything seemed so peachy with the DC/steel attempt but, the machine grew 10 extra settings and knobs on AC mode and at that point, eye-hand coordination went out the window. Seriously though, beyond my skill errors, the gas/regulator issue and getting a half-decent starting point for the settings was killing me. And of all the videos I happen to see, none of them mentioned grinding the electrode with a dedicated wheel. The wheel I used today is certainly contaminated with everything under the sun. The SS wire wheel I used is only for AL though (so I did something right). It seems that none of the videos show a closed-up of the steadied welding hand and just show a nice close-up of the tungsten in action. Didn't realize they were propping-up to the extent they are.

I'll get closer tomorrow, and closer the next day... Just like I do with SMAW every time I scratch a stick... By the way, I don't consider myself a welder but I have successfully stuck a whole bunch of steel together and like doing it. -and now I need to stick some AL together because it seems everybody but me knows how to do it

[everlastsupport]

Ray C,

Do not let all the 10 extra knobs get to you. We quite often do aluminum with just post flow, balance, amps, 2T and freq. You do not need all the knobs to start (aluminum or steel). Run around 2 o'clock on the left yellow know (bal) and 10 o'clock on the right yellow to a starting point on aluminum.

Best advise was research videos and start on steel, you can see the pool and get the feel for height and speed better. Then flip to AC and learn.

If you watch weldingtipsandtricks.com video, you will see quite often in TIG he runs over and over the path without the trigger pulled. Also he sells a "TIG finger" that allows you to use you fingers on the aluminum as a guide or stand-off, which will help you a lot keeping a constant height..

All the info given here is right on target. If just starting, maybe ditch the pedal first and see if that helps your travel. Hope you switched tungsten, also clamp in positive S/SS/A.

[Ray C]

OK, the problem is solved! See the picture of the torch right were my thumb is. The injection molding on the torch was askew at the back end and the two halves were slightly off and there was a very big piece of sprue (injection molding terminology for big bugger of excess material) on the brass fitting. Depending on how the gas circulates inside the torch head, the argon was leaking out the back or, creating a venturi and sucking in air. I took an exacto knife and evened-up the mold seam and happened to have a thicker neoprene O-ring to put on the end cap.

Impatient to give it a test, I grabbed the first piece of AL stock in sight, cranked-out the balance and laid down a few beads. It was a snap. Then I grabbed another piece and joined it. There's some crud in the weld because the surfaces were just quickly rubbed with some stainless steel wool. I had a hard time joining the two pieces because crud was coming to the surface I couldn't get both wet sides to mix. If the pieces were clean, it would have been a snap. Those are my very first TIG welds on AL... Woo-Hoo, I'm off to the races and get to play reindeer games with the big boys .

Thanks to everyone for all the help and if I got grumpy along the line, please accept my apology. Hope you understand but, I was giving this my best shot and was getting skunked big-time.

EDIT: Also, I was welding with a broken gas cup who's tip end was totally cracked off. Ordered new cups and will try some more when they arrive.

[MoparCar]

Wow, what a difference.. Glad you got it figured out!

[zoama]

OK, the problem is solved! See the picture of the torch right were my thumb is. The injection molding on the torch was askew at the back end and the two halves were slightly off and there was a very big piece of sprue (injection molding terminology for big bugger of excess material) on the brass fitting. Depending on how the gas circulates inside the torch head, the argon was leaking out the back or, creating a venturi and sucking in air. I took an exacto knife and evened-up the mold seam and happened to have a thicker neoprene O-ring to put on the end cap.

Impatient to give it a test, I grabbed the first piece of AL stock in sight, cranked-out the balance and laid down a few beads. It was a snap. Then I grabbed another piece and joined it. There's some crud in the weld because the surfaces were just quickly rubbed with some stainless steel wool. I had a hard time joining the two pieces because crud was coming to the surface I couldn't get both wet sides to mix. If the pieces were clean, it would have been a snap. Those are my very first TIG welds on AL... Woo-Hoo, I'm off to the races and get to play reindeer games with the big boys .

Thanks to everyone for all the help and if I got grumpy along the line, please accept my apology. Hope you understand but, I was giving this my best shot and was getting skunked big-time.

EDIT: Also, I was welding with a broken gas cup who's tip end was totally cracked off. Ordered new cups and will try some more when they arrive.

[Rambozo]

Ok, first this I can see right off is you are shaking around way too much. That will never work, you need something to prop your hand on to hold it steady. Freehand and TIG rarely go together. You need to be able to keep your position within about .050" or better. This can be a little block under your hand or even sticking out a pinky to touch the table. Tungsten stickout looks a bit too far, too. Set it to 1/8 to 1/4" from the front of the cup max. Make sure you don't have a breeze, too. If you are using the pedal, you should be able to back down the amps and just sit there indefinitely. The arc will be heating the metal but not melting it. Then add power and you should get a puddle, again as long as you don't go to far, you can pretty much just sit there. At low power settings aluminum will take time to puddle as the heat is conducted away. You can add power, but then things get busy, it's better to just give it a little time and work slowly. After you have had more practice, you can bump up the power and travel speed.

Take a break and watch a bunch of aluminum TIG videos.

Another thing I just noticed, Doh! You really ought to start with steel TIG before moving to aluminum. Somehow I thought you had done that before, but if coming from a self taught stick background only, you have a lot to learn. Steel is a lot more forgiving. Maybe even check out the TIG time videos on another thread here. (maybe they do have a use)

[Rodsmachineshop]

yes your not steady enough like Rambozo says what help to when i tig i lay the torch lead over my shoulder to balance the weight of the torch instead of lead just dangling i rest my hang on a old rolled up welding glove to steady my hand when tig welding indexing the torch so your thumb is lined up with torch button will help also. takes time and patience to learn how to tig aluminum you just dont pick up a torch the first time and do welds that are nice looking. also buy some better welding glove designed for tig welding they need to fit snug and easy for finger movement i use these love how they feel when tig welding i use the gloves like your wearing for like stick and mig welding only

[zoama]

Here's the best welding resource on the internet > http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

[Ray C]

OK Folks,

Things went better today but only did steel. Sadly, the cups have cracked as they built up with splatter and that put a quick end to them. I'm curious, how long (or how much life) do folks get out of their rods and other consumables?

Anyhow, with steel, I'm able to get a good "cone of arc" going and was pushing a puddle around but, the tip was melting away quickly and before you know it, I was shoving the cup into the pool. Of course, I was in DC mode while doing this. I was welding some 1/8" plate, butt joint with 3/32 rod, 10 lpm, foot pedal, 150A on the dial. When the large cones cracked, I dropped down to 1/16 rod and worked on thinner metal but I ran out of play time and wrapped-up.

As for TIG gloves, I have a much better pair of stick gloves than what I was using earlier and I slipped a strip of AL under the pinky to insulate. Was a good compromise for now.

And last, I found time to do some stick practice with the new machine and did some standing vertical and overhead. I avoid overhead like the plague and have rare occasion to do it. These positions aren't my favorite but, I gotta say, this machine helped a LOT. The vertical almost passed for a flat and the overhead looked like my vertical with the old Lincoln. BTW: This isn't my full-time gig but, when the day job is done, I've spent the last couple years in the garage shop behind the lathe, mill, surface grinder etc and I have no formal training in welding.

[zoama]

OK Folks,

Things went better today but only did steel. Sadly, the cups have cracked as they built up with splatter and that put a quick end to them. I'm curious, how long (or how much life) do folks get out of their rods and other consumables?

Anyhow, with steel, I'm able to get a good "cone of arc" going and was pushing a puddle around but, the tip was melting away quickly and before you know it, I was shoving the cup into the pool. Of course, I was in DC mode while doing this. I was welding some 1/8" plate, butt joint with 3/32 rod, 10 lpm, foot pedal, 150A on the dial. When the large cones cracked, I dropped down to 1/16 rod and worked on thinner metal but I ran out of play time and wrapped-up.

As for TIG gloves, I have a much better pair of stick gloves than what I was using earlier and I slipped a strip of AL under the pinky to insulate. Was a good compromise for now.

And last, I found time to do some stick practice with the new machine and did some standing vertical and overhead. I avoid overhead like the plague and have rare occasion to do it. These positions aren't my favorite but, I gotta say, this machine helped a LOT. The vertical almost passed for a flat and the overhead looked like my vertical with the old Lincoln. BTW: This isn't my full-time gig but, when the day job is done, I've spent the last couple years in the garage shop behind the lathe, mill, surface grinder etc and I have no formal training in welding.

There should not be any spatter I think you either have bad argon or air is being pulled into it. 8 lpm should be plenty... to much argon will cause problems as well.

[Rambozo]

Tungsten life all depends on how well you take care of it. Do not overload them with too much current or dip them in the puddle and they will last a very long time. I have been using the same 1/8 2% thoriated for many years. I don't get that kind of life out of 1/16, but I am lazy and don't always change to a bigger tungsten when I should. It's somewhat the same with cups, but again, they can last quite a long time, once you are proficient. One thing they do not survive very well is dropping the torch.

Zoama is right and there really shouldn't be any spatter. I wonder if you do still have a gas problem. It would explain a great many things. A tungsten will burn up if it is not shielded with argon. Since you don't have experience I'm not sure you would be able to tell what is normal. I can't think of a good test to see that you are getting good shielding, without needing something else to test with. With steel, does your arc look like what you see in the videos? It should be smooth, stable, and quiet with no sputtering or popping. The tungsten will glow red, but maintain a sharp point and remain a silvery color once cooled. If air is around it, then it will turn black, and get a coating on it, also the tip will burn off. You might want to go over all your gas connections, and the quick release. Also be sure your torch is assembled properly and that the insulator gasket seals to the cup, and all o-rings are in place. Then again it just might be all you need is practice. Without being able to see just what you are doing, it's hard to say.

[Ray C]

Yeah, I'm definitely out for the count now but will try again tomorrow. I will definitely try as you suggest and prop a hand or pinky. Didn't realize AL was so specific as, I stuck some steel together in DC on the first shot.

I know my stock is fresh and it's 6061 but to be on the safe side, I'll mill a good amount off the face of the next test pieces. On one test piece today, I wiped it down with acetone and wheeled it -didn't help but, it looks my technique is off.

Taking that regulator off fixed a lot of things and the setting suggestions helped too because all the irregular buzz went away.

Much thanks. I appreciate your help...

Ray

Ok, first this I can see right off is you are shaking around way too much. That will never work, you need something to prop your hand on to hold it steady. Freehand and TIG rarely go together. You need to be able to keep your position within about .050" or better. This can be a little block under your hand or even sticking out a pinky to touch the table. Tungsten stickout looks a bit too far, too. Set it to 1/8 to 1/4" from the front of the cup max. Make sure you don't have a breeze, too. If you are using the pedal, you should be able to back down the amps and just sit there indefinitely. The arc will be heating the metal but not melting it. Then add power and you should get a puddle, again as long as you don't go to far, you can pretty much just sit there. At low power settings aluminum will take time to puddle as the heat is conducted away. You can add power, but then things get busy, it's better to just give it a little time and work slowly. After you have had more practice, you can bump up the power and travel speed. Take a break and watch a bunch of aluminum TIG videos.

[Rodsmachineshop]

what ever you wheel it with make sure it was never used to clean steal will contaminate your aluminum

[Rambozo]

Taking that regulator off fixed a lot of things and the setting suggestions helped too because all the irregular buzz went away.

I forgot about that, I'm sure you got a bunch of junk into your gas lines. Moisture and who knows what, oil particles from the compressor. It explains a lot of your contamination issues. You might want to really crank up your flow and just run some gas through your torch without welding to help blow out any debris that might be in there.
There are only three rules for aluminum welding
1. clean
2. Clean
3.CLEAN!

Your tungsten needs to be totally clean too. That means if you hit the aluminum with it, pull it out and grind it again. Steel is not as picky and you can motor through sometimes after you dip your wick, but not AL. Your gas needs to be pure and clean. Your material and filler needs to be clean, too.

[Rodsmachineshop]

plus dedicated tool for what you sharpen your tungsten i use a dedicated grinder for my tungsten that is only used for that

[Ray C]

Hi... Responses to the last few posts...

On steel, the arc-cone seems unstable to me (but I have no reference to judge by) but, with care and steadiness, I can push it along. At times (about every 5-10 seconds) the arc swirls around and that's when the cup gets splattered. When that happens, the tungsten goes black and melts away within 20 seconds or so. Also, some areas of the steel have that pale grey oxidized look and the HAZ is covered with what looks like slag soot.

Putting on my analytical thinking cap here... I'm with you guys, something's wrong with the gas or gas delivery system.

FYI: In the next couple days, can't do much w/TIG until the new supply of gas cups arrives.

[performance]

Arc stability from the description you gave, is usually operator caused..The gray area can be caused by a draft, or by using too much heat or wrong torch angle. Everything, from the type point on the tip you have made, to the torch angle, to the distance you are off the metal, to the manipulation you are using can cause the problems. Sometimes arcs do go south for no apparent reason and can be attributed to environment whether it's magnetism or a slight draft, but it is skill that brings it under control. We've pointed it out here before, not everyone who tries experiences great success with TIG welding. Many accomplished stick welders and even more MIG welders find TIG welding too difficult to be competent. It's an elite form of welding. If nothing else, for an analogy, not everyone makes a good truck driver. Most everyone can learn to drive, but few people got the skills for Over the road hauling with a big truck. If it is swirling and jumping around as you say, it likely isn't the machine, although it could be as I said the environment. The arc is swirling because it is looking for the easiest path to ground. The machine is making the arc, you have to control it. Do you have your machine on the table close to where you are welding or on a cart? The fan has been known to upset an arc.

I don't mean to be negative, or discouraging, but trying to get to the bottom of this issue.